Changing the amp from 50W to 80W, opinion needed

Here are my radioshack meters utilized in passive crossover...
 

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Hey, those are the old meters, the APM-100, huh? The APM-200 is larger and has a row of five red LEDS above each meter.

Hmm... "For party, or PA, its totally different. No power is enough."

Depends... I got some amp/speaker combinations at home that will play past 11 with less than 100 watts! My old buddy had a pair of Cerwin Vegas that did ZZ Top at 11 with a Pioneer SX-727.

Radio Shack meter... yeah, not an accurate thing but cool to look at. People come and look at my stereo.. turntable, preamp with knobs, a bunch of black boxes with blue LED lights, switches, etc... and then they'll comment about the cute LARGE meters... Go figure... One cool thing it has though is the 2 step range, the row of five LEDs above the analog meters and the really nice champagne finish. It does look nice...

Oh, my old Akai amp... the AS980... now THAT's the mother of all meters... in four channel mode, with FM one it has SIX meters plus indicators galore. That's an Apollo Mission Control. The Sansui G7500 has the nice power and tuner meters... four in total... nicer than the older Akai... but..

Honestly, those fluorescent displays were fine in tape decks, but for power meters..

In my book.... There are limits to power, but never enough meters...
 
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I'm using a 65W amplifier with the speakers that recommend minimum 80W power. However, I don't find any problems with this combo. Moreover, I'm happy with them.

Nevertheless, as there were series 2 of amplifiers available and they had 100Wpc power. Although there's nothing wrong with my current system, I'm curious that if I change the amp to the series 2, will I gain a huge difference?

Amplifiers
Series 1: Braun Atelier A1 (65W @ 4 Ohms)
Series 2: Braun Atelier A2 (100W @ 4 Ohms)

Speakers: Braun LS200 (4 Ohms)
Both amplifiers' photos are available on the web... Place the images next to each other and compare. The A2 has a much better supply and it also has double the amount of output devices... both are somewhat important for 4-ohm speakers in particular... that you have.
 
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So, what is the benefit of big amps, please, if 20-30 Watts is enough?

Larger profit margin for the manufacturer.

Pano once started a most interesting test, see https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...wer-do-your-speakers-need.204857/post-2869365 You have to read the first couple of posts to understand how to interpret the test results.

Some people who like to play back the sound of rocket launches at realistic volumes at home needed quite high levels, but for the majority, 30 W per channel was enough.

By the way, the claim that the SPL drops by 6 dB when you double the distance is only true in a place without reverberation. In a normal room, the direct sound gets softer, but the reverberation doesn't.
 
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I was told that the tube amps actually have only 2-5 Watts! Is this real? (Frankly, I’ve never listened to tube amplifiers) And are the Watts of SS and tube amp identical?
And they need speakers efficient to the tune of 100db/W.
Watts are the same , but distortion profiles and the damping of a tube output transformer is WAY different than a solid state EF3.
And a SS EF3 is different than the uOHM MOSFET output of a class D stage.
All the different stages will react differently to the wild mechanical and impedance changes of different loudspeakers.
 
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Today, I got a new bigger power amp. It's a/d/s/ PA4. Launched in around late 80s, it's one of the Atelier series.

Since it's a separated component, a power amplifier, it needs a preamplifier. The preamp which was launched with it is an Atelier CC4. The question is do I need to find the CC4 to use with it? However, I observe the A1 of mine has a pre-out channels. I wonder if I use the pre-out function of the A1, will it give the same sound quality to the CC4 preamp?

Although I have very little on Electronics, I've searched for the schematics of both A1 and CC4 and compare the preamp section. Yes, they are different. Yet, they're the same Atelier series. So, do they close in performance?
 
Some people who like to play back the sound of rocket launches at realistic volumes at home needed quite high levels, but for the majority, 30 W per channel was enough.
I like to play Tschaikovski 1812 Overture in the front yard on July 4. I own 3/4 acre and the warehouse across the street is 100 m away. Good CD's have 72 db signal to noise on that track. It starts very soft, then at the end there are cannon shots. I also like occasionally to play Extra 4449 South a mobile fidelity track of a quiet country crossing with insects buzzing, followed by a 4500 horsepower steam locomotive blasting past at 70 mph.
I played in a high school band and orchestra on stage. I'm used to music having actual soft and loud parts. My high school band played the Pasadena Rose Bowl parade 2 years after I graduated. Volume changes in music can indicate emotion.
Rock & Pop where everything is loud all the time strike me as minor league. Like those newbie bands at the music store playing everything at 11, as loud as their parents will pay the bill for.
 
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And they need speakers efficient to the tune of 100db/W.
Which are sized to the tune of 16 cubic feet, if you want to play down to 41.5 Hz. Using efficient speakers and 2W SETs at 100 Hz and up and buying a 2500W 1 cubic foot powered sub with 10” 65 dB/W driver with a 2” throw to keep up is cheating, at least in the power department. It may be a good compromise, but it is not low power.