I'm now thinking about the low-medium horn (200-900 Hz).
The candidates speakers are :
- http://www.bcspeakers.com/pdf/component/12pe32.pdf
- http://www.phlaudio.com/datasheets/25_pdf/3860.pdf
- http://profesional.beyma.com/ENGLISH/producto.php 122Nd
- http://www.supravox.fr/haut-parleurs/285-2000.htm
But I suspect the Beyma to be the best choice for such a purpose.
Do you have any other driver suggestion?
The candidates speakers are :
- http://www.bcspeakers.com/pdf/component/12pe32.pdf
- http://www.phlaudio.com/datasheets/25_pdf/3860.pdf
- http://profesional.beyma.com/ENGLISH/producto.php 122Nd
- http://www.supravox.fr/haut-parleurs/285-2000.htm
But I suspect the Beyma to be the best choice for such a purpose.
Do you have any other driver suggestion?
Very nice.. but you did the inverse on what I would have done for the molding process (i.e. lathe out the center of a "bucket" filled with dry-wall compound with a cut-out board "bit" like you have done).
For the drivers their is always the question of mass and force and the type of amplification (its dampening factor and its "resolving" ability) driving the speaker.
The expensive (better choices):
If you want more "slam" go for the beyma's. they have more mass.
If you want more detail then go for the Supravox.
either will be incred. dynamic. (between the two I'd go for the Supravox.)
The others seem to follow the beyma paradigm but its doubtful they are as good.. but then again they probably cost less to. Also consider EV and Fane.
still though, its tough to see how you could go wrong with the B&C for the price (and fs is low enough so that distortion shouldn't be a major factor even IF the driver isn't engineered all that great). http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=294-660
(and no, I don't know whether they will ship swiss-side.)
For the drivers their is always the question of mass and force and the type of amplification (its dampening factor and its "resolving" ability) driving the speaker.
The expensive (better choices):
If you want more "slam" go for the beyma's. they have more mass.
If you want more detail then go for the Supravox.
either will be incred. dynamic. (between the two I'd go for the Supravox.)
The others seem to follow the beyma paradigm but its doubtful they are as good.. but then again they probably cost less to. Also consider EV and Fane.
still though, its tough to see how you could go wrong with the B&C for the price (and fs is low enough so that distortion shouldn't be a major factor even IF the driver isn't engineered all that great). http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=294-660
(and no, I don't know whether they will ship swiss-side.)
Another very interresting 12" for mid-high horns is the P.Audio SN-12B (and affordable too)
To get up to 900 Hz with a 12" might require the use of a phase-plug if pattern control is one of your objectives. Also allows one to cross higher without the huge nulls to take care of in the crossover.
To get up to 900 Hz with a 12" might require the use of a phase-plug if pattern control is one of your objectives. Also allows one to cross higher without the huge nulls to take care of in the crossover.
OK.
3 years after the failure of the project descripted in the beginning of this thread, I found the motivation to restart and eventually complete it.
I'm still going to build a sort of lathe (but a better one) to make the counter-mould on which I plan to run plaster or epoxy resin to get the final horn.
First, I cut polystyrene discs to make a support for the plaster of the counter-mould (to avoid cracks and allow it to be light).
Each polystyrene circle is about 1/2 to 1 centimeter smaller than the horn will be, and their is a hole in their center for the axis of the chisel of the lathe.
I used the Le Cleac'h Excel sheet to calculate the expansion of the horn and reported it on the piece of wood of the future "chisel".
Then cutting it.
You can see the axis hole on the top of the cutted chisel.
Some sweat and sandpaper later, the chisel has been glued with the axis and is drying.
To be continued...
3 years after the failure of the project descripted in the beginning of this thread, I found the motivation to restart and eventually complete it.
I'm still going to build a sort of lathe (but a better one) to make the counter-mould on which I plan to run plaster or epoxy resin to get the final horn.
First, I cut polystyrene discs to make a support for the plaster of the counter-mould (to avoid cracks and allow it to be light).
Each polystyrene circle is about 1/2 to 1 centimeter smaller than the horn will be, and their is a hole in their center for the axis of the chisel of the lathe.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I used the Le Cleac'h Excel sheet to calculate the expansion of the horn and reported it on the piece of wood of the future "chisel".
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then cutting it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You can see the axis hole on the top of the cutted chisel.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Some sweat and sandpaper later, the chisel has been glued with the axis and is drying.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
To be continued...
On this pic you can see the system. You may notice the string that carries the chisel in the axis of the horn.
Then we turn.
And turn.
Untill it's finished
After drying (2 days I suppose), I'm going to fill the small holes and sandpaper the whole thing to make it smooth.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Then we turn.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And turn.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Untill it's finished
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
After drying (2 days I suppose), I'm going to fill the small holes and sandpaper the whole thing to make it smooth.
Nice looking pattern. For something not as deep automotive 2k body putty and MDF works rather well and is faster drying. I recommend putting a good couple of layers of laquer on the final mould before using it, trust me when I say that it make s grown man weep to see a large mould crack.
What are you planning on mounting at the business end?
What are you planning on mounting at the business end?
I tried both of Jean Michel Le Cléac'h's Excel spreedsheets (Axial_horn.xls & Horn cylind.xls downloaded from: 'http://ndaviden.club.fr/pavillon/lecleah.htm') in Excel 2003 and was unable to get them to plot the curves/profiles. The instructions are in French and I've tried different translation progs but the results are a bit confusing. It's displaying numerous errors in the various formula. Since it appears to have been produced in Excel 97 I'm wondering if this could be a compatibility issue (missing .dll, etc.).
Since you appear to have used the same files successfully any suggestions would be appreciated.
kwampaku
Since you appear to have used the same files successfully any suggestions would be appreciated.
kwampaku
I noticed the other day that the local big-box home improvement store is selling a much broader range of bagged drymix concrete than used to be. There were even a couple of grades of fiber reinforced stuff that greatly improves cracking problems. Good sources of info for diy concrete working can be found at websites concerned with concrete countertops. Lots of diy'ers doing this stuff.
After loading the instructions into a couple of additional translations sites I realized I needed to copy all of the results from line 38 into lines 39-4049. I was surprised to find that some instructions posted by various members of Audio Asylum stated that this had to be done line by line (something like 32,000 lines).
There is an option for 3 different profiles: hypex, tractrix and hyperbolic and while I understand that the Le Cléac'h design is a "modified tractrix" I'm not certain which one you select results in a Le Cléac'h curve.
While I'm not planning on constructing any front horns myself (I've settled on a pair of Martin Seddon's Azura Horns) I would like to fully understand process.
There is an option for 3 different profiles: hypex, tractrix and hyperbolic and while I understand that the Le Cléac'h design is a "modified tractrix" I'm not certain which one you select results in a Le Cléac'h curve.
While I'm not planning on constructing any front horns myself (I've settled on a pair of Martin Seddon's Azura Horns) I would like to fully understand process.
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