I'm in the process of making 4x boxes for my ceiling atmos speakers with the aim to reduce sound leak. Interestingly, this guide suggest adding plasterboard to the inner core:
Is that required or can I just line the inside of the box with insulating foam and rockwool? I was originally going to line the inside of the boxes with this 'sound deadening foam':
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B086PF59F7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
How is that likely to affect the sound versus using cement board?
For soundproofing is it better to use the insulating sound deadening foam or should I line the inside the box with plasterboard/cement board?
Anything that adds mass without adding stiffness should be avoided. Drywall lining seems strange to me. What kind of drivers are you putting in the box, sealed or vented.
How big are those unbraced MDF boxes.
dave
How big are those unbraced MDF boxes.
dave
I believe the plasterboard is included for its fire resistant properties.
You should check building regulations, which may state something along the following lines:
Consideration should be given to the effect of construction work that could adversely affect fire resistance.
Where loudspeakers are installed, additional protection may be required to maintain the integrity of a wall or ceiling.
You should check building regulations, which may state something along the following lines:
Consideration should be given to the effect of construction work that could adversely affect fire resistance.
Where loudspeakers are installed, additional protection may be required to maintain the integrity of a wall or ceiling.
That makes sense as a fire heat flows to the highest point, speakers themselves wouldn't put up much resistance.
I like the closed cell foam sheets for helping to kill the backwave in sealed boxes.
At the least, have some of it directly behind the driver.
Something like this;
https://www.amazon.com/Artilife-Neo...=closed+cell+foam+sheet&qid=1671927258&sr=8-3
Also, if you can mount the boxes in a way that they won’t transmit energy to the floor above, so maybe just contacting the drywall if you can.
At the least, have some of it directly behind the driver.
Something like this;
https://www.amazon.com/Artilife-Neo...=closed+cell+foam+sheet&qid=1671927258&sr=8-3
Also, if you can mount the boxes in a way that they won’t transmit energy to the floor above, so maybe just contacting the drywall if you can.
Looks like a repurposed car speaker, no specs, i suspect they are designed to be used without boxes, just the big empty space between the rafters.
dave
What is the advantage of "open cell" foam, Dave?
I read that closed cell foam (pictured below) is effective at high frequencies:
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The description states that "Q Install ceiling speakers utilize 'UL94' flame retardant materials".
I read that UL94 is a plastics flammability standard that has six different classifications from the lowest flame-retardant to most flame-retardant.
Whether or not the speaker cone material (it looks like paper to me) used by Q Install will adequately resist flame transfer into the space above the ceiling is debatable.
I would play safe and incorporate the cement board in ceiling box construction.
I’ve used the Armacell foam, has a fire rating I recall.
Helps reduce the squawkiness of some speakers when in shallow cabinets.
Helps reduce the squawkiness of some speakers when in shallow cabinets.
Hi I am at the same stage as you were when you posted your questions and I have the same speakers. I wondered what you did too the boxes in the end as I have been searching online with the same questions you had. Many thanks in advance
Hi
I lined my boxes with drywall.
Will test the speakers after the house is build. I might put some acoustic foam on the inside.