Very nice to see 🙂
I was questioning myself what to build, a normal player, one with a slot-in player or a toploader, but I still have to disassemble my player to see if it is possible to rebuild it to a toploader.
We ordered 9 kits last week which will be sent today. Let´s see when the arrive here 😀 .
Regards,
Mischa
I was questioning myself what to build, a normal player, one with a slot-in player or a toploader, but I still have to disassemble my player to see if it is possible to rebuild it to a toploader.
We ordered 9 kits last week which will be sent today. Let´s see when the arrive here 😀 .
Regards,
Mischa
This was a "regular" tray CDROM. The main thing is to remove the tray mechanism and figure out how to make it work without the tray.
- Removed tray
- Disconnected the tray motor (cut the cables)
- The tray mechanism has a couple of switches that detect whether the tray is in or out.
- The eject button starts and stops the spinner motor.
- I figured that by holding one of the tray detection switches down I was able to start and stop the CD and have the player recognize that there is a CD in the spinner. With a voltmeter I figured that holding the switch down was an open circuit, so I removed the switch
- I kept the earphone amp/vol because that is where the eject switch is connected.
This picture shows it more clearly: picture
- Once you figure how it will work without the tray, then you can start removing as much stuff as you can
Here is another picture without the CD. Remember to save the plastic disc that will hold down the CD or else it will spin off. You have to use the one that came with the CDROM so it will fit well. It is basically a magnet or metal insert.
The controller is mounted in the back of the motor plate as shown in this picture. I switched the display connector to the other side of the board and used a floppy ribbon cable to connect the display. The display is just held in place with a piece of L shape plastic. The VFD is behind a piece of dark plastic to make it took nice.
I removed the red LED and put a blue LED in the backside of the controller board
Still deciding where to put the push buttons, but right now I'm just using the remote
- Removed tray
- Disconnected the tray motor (cut the cables)
- The tray mechanism has a couple of switches that detect whether the tray is in or out.
- The eject button starts and stops the spinner motor.
- I figured that by holding one of the tray detection switches down I was able to start and stop the CD and have the player recognize that there is a CD in the spinner. With a voltmeter I figured that holding the switch down was an open circuit, so I removed the switch
- I kept the earphone amp/vol because that is where the eject switch is connected.
This picture shows it more clearly: picture
- Once you figure how it will work without the tray, then you can start removing as much stuff as you can
Here is another picture without the CD. Remember to save the plastic disc that will hold down the CD or else it will spin off. You have to use the one that came with the CDROM so it will fit well. It is basically a magnet or metal insert.
The controller is mounted in the back of the motor plate as shown in this picture. I switched the display connector to the other side of the board and used a floppy ribbon cable to connect the display. The display is just held in place with a piece of L shape plastic. The VFD is behind a piece of dark plastic to make it took nice.
I removed the red LED and put a blue LED in the backside of the controller board
Still deciding where to put the push buttons, but right now I'm just using the remote
glt said:
- I kept the earphone amp/vol because that is where the eject switch is connected.
Why? You can´t open it with the remote? Did you plan an enclosure or is it going to be hardcore as it is now?
Thanks for the reply.
Regards,
Mischa
That's a good idea to make a mini CD player with slim-drive~and the power supply more easy~It'll perfect if you add a digital out for it~
It won´t work with digital out as the slim´s lack that output. It is all integrated in one big chip😡 !
This one will be built as a simple, everyday use "mini"!
I am building another version with a regular drive integrated with a NOS TDA1543 dac with no controls except for the remote. Won´t even have the display available to look at!
The switch discussed in glts thread will be in combination with a lid over the CD.
mischa72 said:
Why? You can´t open it with the remote? Did you plan an enclosure or is it going to be hardcore as it is now?
Thanks for the reply.
Regards,
Mischa
The eject button in the remote will stop the motor. But in order to restart the motor you need to push the original tray eject button (could be that there is a combination of the two original tray switches that will allow the remote to work, but I didn't try. Besides if you are changing the disc you can easily reach the button.)
glt,
Thank you for a detailed description of your work.
Will use that a guide when I am doing mine.
Are you planning a casing for the 'transport'?
Thank you for a detailed description of your work.
Will use that a guide when I am doing mine.
Are you planning a casing for the 'transport'?
JesseG,
I did exactly as you posted and it worked flawlessly! 😀
Now my CDROM transport is singing beautifully.
Thank you!
I did exactly as you posted and it worked flawlessly! 😀
Now my CDROM transport is singing beautifully.
Thank you!
JesseG said:
The digital out on CD-ROM drives is already buffered S/PDIF, ready for coax to an outboard DAC. The S/PDIF is spec'd for 5V TTL levels. There is no risk of hurting any DAC by sending this signal direct through a coax cable into your DAC, Received or whatever. 😀
...{removed}..
Jess
jazzy939 said:glt,
... Are you planning a casing for the 'transport'?
I think I like it "al fresco" 🙂
I'm going to try to get the I2S signal out next.
glt said:
The eject button in the remote will stop the motor. But in order to restart the motor you need to push the original tray eject button (could be that there is a combination of the two original tray switches that will allow the remote to work, but I didn't try. Besides if you are changing the disc you can easily reach the button.)
Okay, I understand. It would be easy anyway to put an extra button in the case.
Regards,
Mischa
The digital out on CD-ROM drives is already buffered S/PDIF, ready for coax to an outboard DAC. The S/PDIF is spec'd for 5V TTL levels. There is no risk of hurting any DAC by sending this signal direct through a coax cable into your DAC, Received or whatever.
Jesses comments is not completely right but he is right anyway! The SPDIF standard is 0,5-1V! But today all receiver-chips accepts the 5V level as they accept the AES/EBU standard that is 3-10V.
If using a digital input transformer it should then be specified for AES/EBU.
Hi, did your controller kit still available? what is the total price sending to Malaysia by registered airmail? did the kit come with the manual how to install as i'm new to this diy. do you know which cd-rom or dvd-rom got the digital out so that it work with my DAC. Furthermore do i need to build a power supply with +5VDC and +12VDC for the cd-rom and the controller to work?
Thanks
Robert
Thanks
Robert
revintage,
Thank you for the clarifications.
I did measured the voltage output from my CDROM, just around 2V. My DAC, an Audio Alchemy is accepting the input without any problems. 😀
Thank you for the clarifications.
I did measured the voltage output from my CDROM, just around 2V. My DAC, an Audio Alchemy is accepting the input without any problems. 😀
revintage said:
Jesses comments is not completely right but he is right anyway! The SPDIF standard is 0,5-1V! But today all receiver-chips accepts the 5V level as they accept the AES/EBU standard that is 3-10V.
If using a digital input transformer it should then be specified for AES/EBU.
robertc said:Hi, did your controller kit still available? what is the total price sending to Malaysia by registered airmail? did the kit come with the manual how to install as i'm new to this diy. do you know which cd-rom or dvd-rom got the digital out so that it work with my DAC. Furthermore do i need to build a power supply with +5VDC and +12VDC for the cd-rom and the controller to work?
Thanks
Robert
Hi Robert
Sorry for my late reply~Still available~Total cost 38USD to Malaysia.Yes,I sent you the manual before to your Email adress.But it fail to sent.The controller can work with most of CDROM and got the digital out(but not the all).Yes,you need the power supply with +5VDC and +12VDC for the cd-rom and the controller to work.
Regards
Huang
Thanks Huang,
Can you send again the manual to my email cchong2001@yahoo.com
I like see whether i can handle it before i order.
Chong
Can you send again the manual to my email cchong2001@yahoo.com
I like see whether i can handle it before i order.
Chong
robertc said:Thanks Huang,
Can you send again the manual to my email cchong2001@yahoo.com
I like see whether i can handle it before i order.
Chong
Hi Chong
The Manual sent.Thanks~
Could i also have a copy please? I am very interested in the project and i would like to gauge what i could do. Cheers.
gabba69@gmail.com
gabba69@gmail.com
Gabba said:Could i also have a copy please? I am very interested in the project and i would like to gauge what i could do. Cheers.
gabba69@gmail.com
Hi Gabba
Manual sent~
Regards,
Huang
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