Hello all,
I have a problem with my CD player. It doesn't want to open any more.
I can only see that the laser is the Sony KSS-213Q and the mechanism seems to be a Phillips but I have no idea which model.
Does anybody have an idea what is blocking it or any possible solutions?
Can it be possible to purchase replacement parts for this, if where is a supplier?
Is it possible to convert this, if I need to replace, to a top loading type of CD player?
Thanks in advance for you help/advice.
MV
I have a problem with my CD player. It doesn't want to open any more.
I can only see that the laser is the Sony KSS-213Q and the mechanism seems to be a Phillips but I have no idea which model.
Does anybody have an idea what is blocking it or any possible solutions?
Can it be possible to purchase replacement parts for this, if where is a supplier?
Is it possible to convert this, if I need to replace, to a top loading type of CD player?
Thanks in advance for you help/advice.
MV
What brand and model is your CDP?
Or do you have a picture of the mechanism?
I've had good success repairing simple problems on both Philips and Sony mechanisms.
The worst was that two transistors feeding the tray motor were fried. These were pretty generic medium-low power things and I found two pieces of the same in a wrecked VGA monitor.
Just to say that it could range from purely mechanical (belt or geared wheel or switch) to simple electronic, but it should be feasible.
Every time you'd think it's some microcontroller, but as someone wrote here (and that did reassure me) those things rarely break.
Of course on eBay you easily find cheap players with the same stuff as yours inside. To know what to look for refer to the lists in this forum, for example:
CDM vs Player Make & Model List
Full Range of Sony CD Laser Pick Ups (with photos)
But doesn't KSS213 (Sony) in a Philips mechanism seem a bit strange?
_
Or do you have a picture of the mechanism?
I've had good success repairing simple problems on both Philips and Sony mechanisms.
The worst was that two transistors feeding the tray motor were fried. These were pretty generic medium-low power things and I found two pieces of the same in a wrecked VGA monitor.
Just to say that it could range from purely mechanical (belt or geared wheel or switch) to simple electronic, but it should be feasible.
Every time you'd think it's some microcontroller, but as someone wrote here (and that did reassure me) those things rarely break.
Of course on eBay you easily find cheap players with the same stuff as yours inside. To know what to look for refer to the lists in this forum, for example:
CDM vs Player Make & Model List
Full Range of Sony CD Laser Pick Ups (with photos)
But doesn't KSS213 (Sony) in a Philips mechanism seem a bit strange?
_
I'm still away on business and when I return I will send some photos.
The maker is MHZS and the model is 33. The laser is surely Sony (I have successfully identified the number). I bought it to try because they told me it was the Sony/Phillips combination and the DAC was interesting. I mostly listen to Vinyl so it hasn't been high priority.
I think it is a mecchanical problem since it makes clicking noises as if it wants to open but doesn't.
Thanks for your concern.
Cheers,
MV
The maker is MHZS and the model is 33. The laser is surely Sony (I have successfully identified the number). I bought it to try because they told me it was the Sony/Phillips combination and the DAC was interesting. I mostly listen to Vinyl so it hasn't been high priority.
I think it is a mecchanical problem since it makes clicking noises as if it wants to open but doesn't.
Thanks for your concern.
Cheers,
MV
Photos of CD
Hello,
Today I have managed to take photos of the CD laser/mechanism of the CD player. They are too large so if you want to see it then I can email them to you. This is strange because they are only 800kb but we cannot post more than 102KB???
The CD player is actually well made - good components etc... (maybe ther are "fake"???).
email: mavallarino 'at' gmail 'dot' com
Thanks
Hello,
Today I have managed to take photos of the CD laser/mechanism of the CD player. They are too large so if you want to see it then I can email them to you. This is strange because they are only 800kb but we cannot post more than 102KB???
The CD player is actually well made - good components etc... (maybe ther are "fake"???).
email: mavallarino 'at' gmail 'dot' com
Thanks
I am no expert but usually these transports have two motors. One for turning the CD and one to open and close the drawer.
Test voltage at the draw motor leads. NO voltage when you push open/close means problem upstream. Voltage means bad motor or something at that end (usually bad motor).
It's a place to start and narrow the possibilities! Good Luck!
Regards//Keith
Test voltage at the draw motor leads. NO voltage when you push open/close means problem upstream. Voltage means bad motor or something at that end (usually bad motor).
It's a place to start and narrow the possibilities! Good Luck!
Regards//Keith
Hello,
Thanks. You are correct. There are three motors.
"Wants to open" means that the motors turn and there is a strange "click". I have heard this noise. There must be a rail/gear that isn't touching or catching. The CD player reads "Open" when closed and when closed (with disc inside) plays well. You can only play disc manually. ;(
Regards,
MV
Thanks. You are correct. There are three motors.
"Wants to open" means that the motors turn and there is a strange "click". I have heard this noise. There must be a rail/gear that isn't touching or catching. The CD player reads "Open" when closed and when closed (with disc inside) plays well. You can only play disc manually. ;(
Regards,
MV
Hi MV,
Sounds like the gear or track rail is stripped and/or cracked. Hopefully these are available and you can replace these parts (both, even if only one is broken). Also see if there are any springs that keep the rail and gear meshed, that may be tired. If so, replace them or anything that keeps the mesh intact, too!
Good luck!
Regards//Keith
Sounds like the gear or track rail is stripped and/or cracked. Hopefully these are available and you can replace these parts (both, even if only one is broken). Also see if there are any springs that keep the rail and gear meshed, that may be tired. If so, replace them or anything that keeps the mesh intact, too!
Good luck!
Regards//Keith
mavallarino said:
maybe:
-damaged gear
-faulty switch
-screws/pencil/coffee cup/pizza/parts of broken cd etc. in the mechanism
-bad alignement with the chassis
Thanks for the advice!
The track is actually internal and very difficult to access. I have spoken to the manufacture (of the CD player) and they have said that they will exchange the laser part.
To remove the mechanism and laser I had to actually desolder a surface mount connector...
Cheers,
MV
The track is actually internal and very difficult to access. I have spoken to the manufacture (of the CD player) and they have said that they will exchange the laser part.
To remove the mechanism and laser I had to actually desolder a surface mount connector...
Cheers,
MV
mhzs 33
i have a simaler problem with my 33 tha drawer closes but makes a nasty grinding noise when fully shut the motor that spins the disc does not start and the disc tray opens, but now and then it loads and plays fine did any one find a replacement for this tray
many thanks this is my first post found my way here via wigwam site in the hope of some one can help on this
thanks again for any help offered
i have a simaler problem with my 33 tha drawer closes but makes a nasty grinding noise when fully shut the motor that spins the disc does not start and the disc tray opens, but now and then it loads and plays fine did any one find a replacement for this tray
many thanks this is my first post found my way here via wigwam site in the hope of some one can help on this
thanks again for any help offered
...if you mean that the tray closes, then the motor keeps turning with grinding noise, then opens again, it could be the limit-switch that detects that the tray is completely in. It may have a false contact that sometimes works sometimes not.
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