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Captain Obvious here.
If it worked before you played with it.
And it doesn't work after you played with it.
Logic would dictate that you did something wrong.
Therefore, you need to go back over what you did, to find out, what you did, wrong.
If it worked before you played with it.
And it doesn't work after you played with it.
Logic would dictate that you did something wrong.
Therefore, you need to go back over what you did, to find out, what you did, wrong.
Look for backward capacitors, solder splashes, unplugged connectors, etc.
It worked before you "improved" it.
There is a mistake somewhere in what you have done. You need to check more closely to find it.
Everything that needs to be said has been 🙂 and the only thig I can add is to make absolutely sure all the values are correct. If any are wrong (or you thought bigger might be better) you can get rail sequencing issues causing latchups.
I worked on Meridian MCD /Philips CD101. Didn't need the clunker but in my eternal wisdom I thought it may sell better with cap change. Having short term memory problem doesn't help with cap orientation.... Also , I thought that I may finally use my NOS Sanyo Os-Con caps of 20 year vintage, meh! One of the caps on the board kept blowing and I checked , re checked until I finally took out the multimeter and discovered that it was a factory mistake on the board. The marking and assembly were wrong Old blue 33uF/35V Philips caps withstood being mounted in opposite direction for decades and new Nichicons spilled the blood in no time. I lucked out on another MCD and sure enough the same story,
All old Philips CD101 and Magnavox marked players have this fault on the board and work.
All old Philips CD101 and Magnavox marked players have this fault on the board and work.