Hello,
After some discussion on here regarding my CD player that doesn't play CD's (no disc error) I decided to attempt to increase the laser power slightly by turning the laser mini pot.
I took the player apart, but after removing the drawer assembly with the laser assembly with it, I just cannot access the circuit board that presumably has the mini pot on it.
There are no screws on the top surface so I can't see how to pull the laser assembly up out of the drawer. On the other side I can access the underneath of the circuit board, so I removed the 3 screws there but the circuit board wont come away.
Attached two pics.
I feel completely stuck!
Cheers,
Simon
After some discussion on here regarding my CD player that doesn't play CD's (no disc error) I decided to attempt to increase the laser power slightly by turning the laser mini pot.
I took the player apart, but after removing the drawer assembly with the laser assembly with it, I just cannot access the circuit board that presumably has the mini pot on it.
There are no screws on the top surface so I can't see how to pull the laser assembly up out of the drawer. On the other side I can access the underneath of the circuit board, so I removed the 3 screws there but the circuit board wont come away.
Attached two pics.
I feel completely stuck!
Cheers,
Simon
Have you got a good signal from the laser assembly? It is not likely that increasing the laser power will help at all unless you have a laser power meter to do the job and in my experience, they either work or fail. Have you got laser light from the laser? Does the laser attempt to focus?
Check the focus offset and if that is wildly out, replace the assembly.
Check the focus offset and if that is wildly out, replace the assembly.
I'm basically in agreement that the pot shouldn't be randomly tweaked either...... but then he knows that
Can you even see the pot ?
Have you tried moving the sled outward to see if that helps access. If you desolder the sled motor and apply a 1.5 volt AA battery across the motor then that will move the sled. You shouldn't really apply voltage with the motor connected.
Can you even see the pot ?
Have you tried moving the sled outward to see if that helps access. If you desolder the sled motor and apply a 1.5 volt AA battery across the motor then that will move the sled. You shouldn't really apply voltage with the motor connected.
Well if you can't see the pots then at least we're a bit nearer finding the identity of the transport , 99% it's a Philips in which case they are underneath the transport itself.
It's a Panasonic/Technics Mechanism.
P.
It's a Panasonic/Technics Mechanism.
P.
Ahh ok i was wrong then , the OP has another thread and when trying to solve the issue we were trying to identify the make , i knew a lot of Technics used Philips and with the pots not easily accessed i assumed thats what it was , glad i left a 1% doubt now
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Well, I managed to get the circuit board off the bottom, but there is no pot on there. Is it on the laser unit itself I wonder. At first I thought there were two adjustable tabs on the top and the bottom but they don't budge. I couldn't get access to the laser unit from the other side, I just couldn't see how to get the unit out, nor can I see how to remove it from this side either. It'll be a miracle if I get this working.
I think it might be the largish screw on the tiny circuit board on the laser itself, as it's described in the service manual as variable resistor, and not screwing the circuit board to the laser unit as I first thought. So I've turned it a few degrees clockwise, can just about reach it. Hope it works because I've got to solder the two motors back to see whether it works.
It is the one on the pickup as you describe.
Can you not access that with it all back together ? If you can see it in situ then it can turned in situ.
I kind of share Konzentr8's sentiments although we hope we are wrong...
Also turning clockwise isn't guaranteed to be the direction needed... service adjustments don't always conform to that logic... it is what fits the board layout best. You will just have to try it.
Can you not access that with it all back together ? If you can see it in situ then it can turned in situ.
I kind of share Konzentr8's sentiments although we hope we are wrong...
Also turning clockwise isn't guaranteed to be the direction needed... service adjustments don't always conform to that logic... it is what fits the board layout best. You will just have to try it.
Ahh, thank you. Yes I turned it slightly clockwise. The only CD that played before doesn't play at all now. I can only try and turn it in the other direction, but it's not looking good and I'm sort of giving up now.
Been on to Technics and they won't sell me parts because they want me to take it to authorised repairer, nearest is 30 miles away.
I looked into buying a new system a few years ago but even the expensive ones didn't sound as good as mine with poor base and treble hence me wanting to keep this one.
Been on to Technics and they won't sell me parts because they want me to take it to authorised repairer, nearest is 30 miles away.
I looked into buying a new system a few years ago but even the expensive ones didn't sound as good as mine with poor base and treble hence me wanting to keep this one.
As you have got this far I would try turning it a little the other way. Parts from Technics would be horrendously expensive, and I would really question whether this was worth spending on to that extent.
Also (and maybe those who have worked on this type of mech can advise) I have memories of some pickups not being 'plug and play' but requiring a very difficult and critical diffraction grating adjustment via an access hole on the pickup. You also need the special tool for that.
I think you have to accept that from a diy perspective you have gone as far as practical and even now you should really be using an oscilloscope to look at what was coming of the disc that did play. It would have told us so much about the state of the pickup and laser.
Also (and maybe those who have worked on this type of mech can advise) I have memories of some pickups not being 'plug and play' but requiring a very difficult and critical diffraction grating adjustment via an access hole on the pickup. You also need the special tool for that.
I think you have to accept that from a diy perspective you have gone as far as practical and even now you should really be using an oscilloscope to look at what was coming of the disc that did play. It would have told us so much about the state of the pickup and laser.
.....Also (and maybe those who have worked on this type of mech can advise) I have memories of some pickups not being 'plug and play' but requiring a very difficult and critical diffraction grating adjustment via an access hole on the pickup. You also need the special tool for that............
These were 'plug and play'.
I very much doubt Panasonic have any of these Lasers left now. When they dropped the Technics brand (I know it's coming back now) parts disappeared almost over-night.
You may find one on ebay. What Model are we dealing with?
P.
1996 ST-CA1080E-K midi system
......but the model of the CD Player.?
SL-CA1080 perchance ?
P.
Can't find any info on the SL-Ca1080.
The SL-CA1060 used the RAE-0113Z Traverse Mech, found this on ebay.............
NEW OPTICAL LASER LENS PICKUP - model: RAE0113 | eBay
Hasn't got the 'Z' at the end but suspect possibly the same.
P.
The SL-CA1060 used the RAE-0113Z Traverse Mech, found this on ebay.............
NEW OPTICAL LASER LENS PICKUP - model: RAE0113 | eBay
Hasn't got the 'Z' at the end but suspect possibly the same.
P.
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