Dear Audio Masters,
I'm a slow and steady worker and usually solve my problems in the audio department because I like taking my time and solving the puzzle.
I was at the thrift store and scored a Carver PM 300. At first I was thrilled, now I'm asking myself the hard question- is it worth it?
As I perceive the problem there is 120 volts all the way into the transformer, but nothing coming out on the DC side. I checked the resistance of the leads and none are way out of the ballpark and continuity checks out. I even plugged it into 120 volts and it vibrated and seemed fine, although I chickened out 😱, because I didn't want to fry it totally.
If someone could walk me through this circuit I would totally appreciate it.
I'm stumped, I'm hopefully that someone could earn their stripes by helping out the new guy...😉
http://www.carvermanuals.com/manuals/Amplifiers/PM-300%20Owners.pdf
I'm a slow and steady worker and usually solve my problems in the audio department because I like taking my time and solving the puzzle.
I was at the thrift store and scored a Carver PM 300. At first I was thrilled, now I'm asking myself the hard question- is it worth it?
As I perceive the problem there is 120 volts all the way into the transformer, but nothing coming out on the DC side. I checked the resistance of the leads and none are way out of the ballpark and continuity checks out. I even plugged it into 120 volts and it vibrated and seemed fine, although I chickened out 😱, because I didn't want to fry it totally.
If someone could walk me through this circuit I would totally appreciate it.
I'm stumped, I'm hopefully that someone could earn their stripes by helping out the new guy...😉
http://www.carvermanuals.com/manuals/Amplifiers/PM-300%20Owners.pdf
As I perceive the problem there is 120 volts all the way into the transformer, but nothing coming out on the DC side.
If someone could walk me through this circuit I would totally appreciate it.
You'll need at least a DVM, do you have one? Do your probes have clips, or just sharp points?
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I do have a dvm. And clips. I can handle a bit, but I'm no engineer but a very quick study.
What do you make of this conundrum?
What do you make of this conundrum?
Trust me.... If you do not have years of experience in the field of repairing switchmode power supplies, audio amplifiers, and do not have a dual-channel oscilloscope +the necessary theoretical background of the above, do not start repairing, because you will end up with a totally dead amp, in worse case a dead You..... Saing this after doing this kind of stuff for almost 40 years.
This is not the question of quick learning paired with self-confidence, here you need more than that, much more....
This is not the question of quick learning paired with self-confidence, here you need more than that, much more....
Once I repaired an old M-400 (the "cube")... that was a nightmare. Things were blowing every half an hour, one after the other, I fixed one part, the other blew up. Maybe the newer ones are more reliable, but since then I am not touching a Carver amp even with a 3 feet pole.
Hi,
There is no simple walk through with this one.
FWIW the description in the manual is a good as your going
to get, there is nothing much anyone else can add to it.
rgds, sreten.
There is no simple walk through with this one.
FWIW the description in the manual is a good as your going
to get, there is nothing much anyone else can add to it.
rgds, sreten.
Besides some waveform measurement pictures at critical points (some companies do), but you cannot expect that - could make repair much easier 🙂
It's not the amplifier circuit that is tough, it's the audio-tracking triac-controlled power supply.
Check the diodes on the low voltage rail, if they're bad replace with 6A diodes.
Check all transistors for shorts.
Do not use a variac, it must be driven by its internal triac light-dimmer type circuit.
If the transformer looks like it has been on fire, it's scrap.
Check the diodes on the low voltage rail, if they're bad replace with 6A diodes.
Check all transistors for shorts.
Do not use a variac, it must be driven by its internal triac light-dimmer type circuit.
If the transformer looks like it has been on fire, it's scrap.
I agree with DJK the amplifier itself is not that bad to troubleshoot, the power supply a PITA to troubleshoot. What makes all or most of the Carvers with that power supply hard to work on is the mechanical layout, every time you find something on the schematic that you want measure you can't get to it. The 400 is the worst, basically yank it all apart, test and replace everything you can, put it all back together and hope you found everything. Then come the alignments, very hard to get where you need to get. So without lots of experience AND test equipment the OP's amp is never going to work. He also started on the wrong foot by plugging the power xfmr straight to 120VAC, that's why it vibrated.
Another problem I always find in the amplifiers with TO-3 output and commutator xsistors is the commutator xsistors are always dead. They will measure fine using the diode function on a typical DMM but tested on a semiconductor analyzer they won't do anything, no leakage, no anything.
Craig
Another problem I always find in the amplifiers with TO-3 output and commutator xsistors is the commutator xsistors are always dead. They will measure fine using the diode function on a typical DMM but tested on a semiconductor analyzer they won't do anything, no leakage, no anything.
Craig
Wow, some you you are tough to get through. Advisement appreciated. Is it worth it to send out?
I also agree bad idea to plug into the wall- exciting although temporary.
I ordered the service manual for it.
I tested the TRIAC seems to be fine. I have scope and a DMM. No signal generator.
I do not think the problem is very bad for some reason. But, I'm an eternal optimist and seem to be in the right crowd 🙂
Let me get this manual in the mail and then check some voltages in the Power Supply...
Many Thanks, I can tell this is a winter project- lots of wood in the yard so I should be fine.
Good Listening,
Luc
I also agree bad idea to plug into the wall- exciting although temporary.
I ordered the service manual for it.
I tested the TRIAC seems to be fine. I have scope and a DMM. No signal generator.
I do not think the problem is very bad for some reason. But, I'm an eternal optimist and seem to be in the right crowd 🙂
Let me get this manual in the mail and then check some voltages in the Power Supply...
Many Thanks, I can tell this is a winter project- lots of wood in the yard so I should be fine.
Good Listening,
Luc
It's not the amplifier circuit that is tough, it's the audio-tracking triac-controlled power supply.
Check the diodes on the low voltage rail, if they're bad replace with 6A diodes.
Check all transistors for shorts.
Do not use a variac, it must be driven by its internal triac light-dimmer type circuit.
If the transformer looks like it has been on fire, it's scrap.
Thanks for this detailed information. I really like this type of instruction. I'm going to pause us here until i perform the above task. Many thanks, Luc
I did it!!! It had to be on the low voltage end before the triac because it was not firing! Resistor 47 was found to not conduct at all!! She's up!!! Many thanks'!!!
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A little problem with the left channel at low-mid volume crackly with protection led coming on and off. Somewhere on the left amp board???
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Would a two volt difference between left and right cause over current led to illuminate?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just switched amp boards and the same channel protection side led lit up. Must be input or power board. Thoughts?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree with DJK the amplifier itself is not that bad to troubleshoot, the power supply a PITA to troubleshoot. What makes all or most of the Carvers with that power supply hard to work on is the mechanical layout, every time you find something on the schematic that you want measure you can't get to it. The 400 is the worst, basically yank it all apart, test and replace everything you can, put it all back together and hope you found everything. Then come the alignments, very hard to get where you need to get. So without lots of experience AND test equipment the OP's amp is never going to work. He also started on the wrong foot by plugging the power xfmr straight to 120VAC, that's why it vibrated.
Another problem I always find in the amplifiers with TO-3 output and commutator xsistors is the commutator xsistors are always dead. They will measure fine using the diode function on a typical DMM but tested on a semiconductor analyzer they won't do anything, no leakage, no anything.
Craig
Craig, the TO-3 output and commutator resistors- where are they located? On the power supply?
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