Next set of updates on the way. I've been doing little bits here and there where I can but haven't had time to log. I work in sport and our Championship event was yesterday so I'm hoping to get stuck in and get a heap done in the next couple of weeks!
Next step was to cut out the driver holes in the holey braces.
Next step was to cut out the driver holes in the holey braces.
I did a few of things in my next session. First I started preparing the front baffle by cutting the panels, driver holes and recesses and champhering the driver hole. I also needed to trim down the top driver panel as it was 2-3 mm proud of the front to the box. Last but not least I added the seals to the removable bottom.
Front baffle
Routing the top driver baffle. This was done by using a base across the front of the box (where the front baffle will be) and routing down to the height of the box with a trim bit.
You can just see the weather seal popping out from between the brace and the removable bottom.
Front baffle
Routing the top driver baffle. This was done by using a base across the front of the box (where the front baffle will be) and routing down to the height of the box with a trim bit.
You can just see the weather seal popping out from between the brace and the removable bottom.
Next job was to flush the cabinet sides with the top baffle. I did this by using a jig saw and then using the same process as I used to flush the top baffle with the cabinet front. I used a piece of 16mm scrap mdf to raise the router and then routed down to the surface with a trim bit.
I used a small router for this thinking it would be easier to control. In hindsight I should have added a larger router base to make it more stable. On one of the tops a small slip and therefor tilt of the router meant that a small 'divot' went into the top. This will be easy to fix with some bondo (two part putt - bondo can't be found in Aus) but frustrating none the less!
I used a small router for this thinking it would be easier to control. In hindsight I should have added a larger router base to make it more stable. On one of the tops a small slip and therefor tilt of the router meant that a small 'divot' went into the top. This will be easy to fix with some bondo (two part putt - bondo can't be found in Aus) but frustrating none the less!
Next up is gluing in the holey braces. First set in was the top brace. I used polyeurethane for one and wood glue for the other... I had a feeling the glue seam would be slightly thicker with the polyeurethane. No idea if this is the case or not? Perhaps someone can chime in here. I did this as the front of the brace had about 0.5mm clearance to where the front baffle would be and want there to be a good solid connection between brace and baffle.
Then the bottom brace
Here they are in finished state
Then the bottom brace
Here they are in finished state
Hey Zman. I have chosen a couple of parts express items for the binding posts and plates.
Black plates
Dayton Audio SBPP-BK Binding Post Plate Black Anodized
Satin silver posts
Dayton Audio BPP-SN Premium Binding Post Pair Satin Nickel
I am intending to recess the plate into the back of the cabinet. Need to work out how much the gasket will compress and how thick the veneer will be. I also got an inlay guide kit just for this purpose. Never used it before so a test will be happening just like the Jasper circle jig. Love new tools!
Still not much further down the line wrt to stuffing. Bunnings our main hardware store does not have any glass fibre insulation and carpet installers are not easy to find for underlay. Nearly everywhere has wood floors in Queensland as its so hot here. Still have my thinking cap on.
Black plates
Dayton Audio SBPP-BK Binding Post Plate Black Anodized
Satin silver posts
Dayton Audio BPP-SN Premium Binding Post Pair Satin Nickel
I am intending to recess the plate into the back of the cabinet. Need to work out how much the gasket will compress and how thick the veneer will be. I also got an inlay guide kit just for this purpose. Never used it before so a test will be happening just like the Jasper circle jig. Love new tools!
Still not much further down the line wrt to stuffing. Bunnings our main hardware store does not have any glass fibre insulation and carpet installers are not easy to find for underlay. Nearly everywhere has wood floors in Queensland as its so hot here. Still have my thinking cap on.
Have you checked with these guys?
Superfelt
Jute carpet underlay should work for the lining.
For the "stuffing" you can consider poly batting or fibre glass insulation. Ultratouch denim insulation is unlikely to be available outside of North America.
Your choice of terminals/binding posts in Aus:
Loudspeaker Components Speaker Cabinet Accessories Binding Posts & Plates
Cheaper and easy to use (but shipping from Hong Kong):
Square Speaker Terminal CUP Junction BOX Board With 2 Gold Plated Binding Posts | eBay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-6-x-2-...69?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item462e4451e5
Superfelt
Jute carpet underlay should work for the lining.
For the "stuffing" you can consider poly batting or fibre glass insulation. Ultratouch denim insulation is unlikely to be available outside of North America.
Your choice of terminals/binding posts in Aus:
Loudspeaker Components Speaker Cabinet Accessories Binding Posts & Plates
Cheaper and easy to use (but shipping from Hong Kong):
Square Speaker Terminal CUP Junction BOX Board With 2 Gold Plated Binding Posts | eBay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-6-x-2-...69?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item462e4451e5
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Back to posting again. Next thing to do was crack out the inlay guide kit and create a template so that I could rout out a recess for the binding post plate. I have never used this before so had get the cogs spinning to figure out how this work. Forgot to get a photo of final template but here are a few pics of the jig I had to set up to make the template. Went pretty well I think. Did slightly scratch the black anodising but hardly noticeable and nothing a sharpie can't fix. Scratches will likely be hidden by the recess anyway.
Hmmm will continue posting later as only one photo appears to be able to be downloaded at a time on idevices...
Hmmm will continue posting later as only one photo appears to be able to be downloaded at a time on idevices...
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Well it looks like I can not go back and edit today so I'll start again
Next thing to do was crack out the inlay guide kit and create a template so that I could rout out a recess for the binding post plate. I have never used this before so had get the cogs spinning to figure out how this works. Forgot to get a photo of final template but here are a few pics of the jig I had to set up to make the template. Went pretty well I think. Did slightly scratch the black anodising but hardly noticeable and nothing a sharpie can't fix. Scratches will likely be hidden by the recess anyway.
To describe the process I went through I used a bottom plate to clamp the binding post plate to the 'male' template. This was routed with the guide bearing bushing 'on' and pressed against the binding post plate. This male template was then used with the guide bearing 'off' to create the 'female' template. When routing the final recess the guide bearing will be put on again and a perfect recess will be created...hopefully. First test run came out ok. I did it this way so that only one run around the anodised plate needed to be made to reduce any potential damage. The two bolts were clamped in a vice to create a stable platform from which to use the router. If you look at the pics imagine everything being upside down (bolts pointing down).
I have managed to get my hands on some veneer. When I got to the shop of the only veneer supplier I could find in Brisbane (Sharps Plywood) I asked for paper backed veneer and talked about 10mil vs 20mil and the guys at the shop looked at me as though I had horns growing out of my head... I got some 'fleece backed' American walnut in a 2400 x 1220 sheet. I ended up flustered and just said I'd have one. Turns out they had 5 sheets to hand but I didn't check the others out as I was unsure if I could... Trick for new players 
Next time I will be more confident lol. Ended up at $127 (AUD) for the sheet, more expensive than I thought but it is beautiful! This sheet will do this pair and a centre with no problems, leaving plenty to spare and to use as test pieces. The only other places I found with veneer only had small sheets eg Carba-Tec. For those Aussies amongst you I thought Mr Ply and Wood would have some but they said their supplier was no longer in business and recommended Sharps... So I went there.
I still need to work out what size the backing is but it's such a small measurement I'm fairly sure the vernier callipers won't be much good. Any way to tell? Not much I can do about it now but would be nice to know.
To get an idea of how it would look and how to cut the sheet I created a template to view the sheet by duct taping a number of A4 sheets together, ghetto method but pretty effective
Decisions decisions... (the pic with the book match join off centre was at the behest of the wife who said the wood looks like flames rising and fake as its symmetrical!)
Any thoughts on whether the top baffle should be a continuation of the pattern from the front baffle or if a horizontal piece of veneer should be used. I am thinking with the forward tilt of the top baffle a continuation would look good...? Are there any experienced veneerers (I know it's not a real word, sorry...) who can give an opinion?
I am also pondering what finish to use on the walnut... Had thought Danish Oil but still very much undecided (Watco Danish oil not available in AUS). Any suggestions gratefully received!
Next time I will be more confident lol. Ended up at $127 (AUD) for the sheet, more expensive than I thought but it is beautiful! This sheet will do this pair and a centre with no problems, leaving plenty to spare and to use as test pieces. The only other places I found with veneer only had small sheets eg Carba-Tec. For those Aussies amongst you I thought Mr Ply and Wood would have some but they said their supplier was no longer in business and recommended Sharps... So I went there.I still need to work out what size the backing is but it's such a small measurement I'm fairly sure the vernier callipers won't be much good. Any way to tell? Not much I can do about it now but would be nice to know.
To get an idea of how it would look and how to cut the sheet I created a template to view the sheet by duct taping a number of A4 sheets together, ghetto method but pretty effective
Decisions decisions... (the pic with the book match join off centre was at the behest of the wife who said the wood looks like flames rising and fake as its symmetrical!)
Any thoughts on whether the top baffle should be a continuation of the pattern from the front baffle or if a horizontal piece of veneer should be used. I am thinking with the forward tilt of the top baffle a continuation would look good...? Are there any experienced veneerers (I know it's not a real word, sorry...) who can give an opinion?
I am also pondering what finish to use on the walnut... Had thought Danish Oil but still very much undecided (Watco Danish oil not available in AUS). Any suggestions gratefully received!
Error corrected. All measurements had been made from the top baffle so it was a simple matter of cutting down the legs so that both sides were the same. At this point I noticed a slight wobble in the 'short' cabinet as well so used a straight edge and pattern bit to route new straight and symmetrical lines on sides of both cabinets then onto the same technique I used for the top baffle using a spacer and routing down onto the back edge to create a level base. Now everything is straight and symmetrical! Front baffle at 4.5 degrees to vertical which therefore means top will be 5.5 degrees from horizontal. There is still a full 1 inch clearance from the base of the port and the floor at the back of cabinet (lowest point given cabinet tilt).
Next up was sorting out the damping prior to fixing the front baffle. I really struggled to find any suitable material for around the drivers but in the end I went to a discount carpet warehouse and found some carpet felt. This was only about 7mm thick so I have doubled it up. To give you an ideal of scale the mdf is 16mm, plenty of pics later to reference. First job was to cut the pieces.
Next job was to sew them together which I did quite simply. This gives a thickness of approx 14-16mm. I figured this would be better than 7mm.
Then on to gluing the pieces into the cabinets. I used a spray contact adhesive and waited till the glue had just started to loose its tackiness before placing the felt into the cabs. Was a little tricky given the tight space and tight fitting felt pieces which now had contact adhesive on them as well as the cabinet! I also used some masking tape on the cabinet tops to try and preserve the surface for the wood glue later on. Went fairly well in the end and I'm happy with the outcome. I also rubbed down all exposed surfaces with turps afterwards to get rid of any overspray.
Next job was to sew them together which I did quite simply. This gives a thickness of approx 14-16mm. I figured this would be better than 7mm.
Then on to gluing the pieces into the cabinets. I used a spray contact adhesive and waited till the glue had just started to loose its tackiness before placing the felt into the cabs. Was a little tricky given the tight space and tight fitting felt pieces which now had contact adhesive on them as well as the cabinet! I also used some masking tape on the cabinet tops to try and preserve the surface for the wood glue later on. Went fairly well in the end and I'm happy with the outcome. I also rubbed down all exposed surfaces with turps afterwards to get rid of any overspray.
Then I had to work out how to do the felt for the front baffle... I measured the gap between the installed felt and cut some squares to fit. After a bit of trimming to make sure they were not being compressed when in place I installed the felt and placed the baffle in its correct position so that the felt could be seen through the driver hole. Having the top driver hole made it pretty easy to ensure everything was in its correct position. I then used a sharpie to mark the driver hole. I used this mark plus about 10mm to account for the champher on the back, as I had done for the top driver, and cut with scissors. I first cut two slices along the diameter of the final circle in the shape of a cross to allow the scissors clean access to the circumference.
The eagle eyed amongst you will have noticed I had to 'un-sew' the felt for the front baffle in order to cut the hole. This will be re sewed in due course. I had initially intended to glue the felt to the front baffle prior to install but have decided to sew it onto the side and top felt pieces to hold it in place. This will simplify the glue up of front baffle and alleviate a potential and unnecessary Tetris moment later on. I also want to cut small amounts of felt away to create more 'breathing space' for the drivers which will mean the felt will be in two semi circles rather than one pice. Sewing to the sides will create more stability than gluing IMO. If I remember I will take a pic of the final set up.
Last but not least I have to decide on the fill for the rest of the cabinet. I have a little cushion fill poly fill fluffy stuff, left over from a previous build, to put between the drivers but not enough to fill the entire cabinet. Once again this damping material choice has proved interesting. Finding 'old school' fibreglass wall insulation seems to be impossible as everything has gone eco friendly. I can find no denim product such as the P10 favourite material in AUS. I think I will use the product linked below which is a recycled glass wall insulation.
Earthwool R-2.0 90 x 430mm x 19m DIY Multi-Use Insulation Roll I/N 0810890 | Bunnings Warehouse
Anyone have any wise words about this choice...?
The eagle eyed amongst you will have noticed I had to 'un-sew' the felt for the front baffle in order to cut the hole. This will be re sewed in due course. I had initially intended to glue the felt to the front baffle prior to install but have decided to sew it onto the side and top felt pieces to hold it in place. This will simplify the glue up of front baffle and alleviate a potential and unnecessary Tetris moment later on. I also want to cut small amounts of felt away to create more 'breathing space' for the drivers which will mean the felt will be in two semi circles rather than one pice. Sewing to the sides will create more stability than gluing IMO. If I remember I will take a pic of the final set up.
Last but not least I have to decide on the fill for the rest of the cabinet. I have a little cushion fill poly fill fluffy stuff, left over from a previous build, to put between the drivers but not enough to fill the entire cabinet. Once again this damping material choice has proved interesting. Finding 'old school' fibreglass wall insulation seems to be impossible as everything has gone eco friendly. I can find no denim product such as the P10 favourite material in AUS. I think I will use the product linked below which is a recycled glass wall insulation.
Earthwool R-2.0 90 x 430mm x 19m DIY Multi-Use Insulation Roll I/N 0810890 | Bunnings Warehouse
Anyone have any wise words about this choice...?
Here is another practice run at recessing the binding post plate. Not bad effort. I'm going to have to do this once the veneer is on so definitely keen to make sure I have the process nailed before I do it for real!
As you can see I need to go a little deeper for the recess as the gasket does not compress much but other than that pretty happy.
As you can see I need to go a little deeper for the recess as the gasket does not compress much but other than that pretty happy.
andy - very detailed documentation of the build - your photo shoots and written descriptions probably took longer than my average build.
of course I cheat whenever I can - CNC routing for rebated drivers and most curvy side panels, a brad nailer and post veneering can make for speedy work
although last weekend I blasted together a pair of FHXL for FF165WK totally by hand in one 6 hr shift, using an existing pair as template for side panels, perimeter dadoes only, and driver holes with shop made router circle jig.
of course I cheat whenever I can - CNC routing for rebated drivers and most curvy side panels, a brad nailer and post veneering can make for speedy work
although last weekend I blasted together a pair of FHXL for FF165WK totally by hand in one 6 hr shift, using an existing pair as template for side panels, perimeter dadoes only, and driver holes with shop made router circle jig.
Finally got some damping. Went for the only available option I could find which is a recycled glass 'wool' like insulation roll. I cut 215x90mm section to fill length of cabinet under drivers. Tried to tease the bat apart as much as possible to fill cabinet but it was fairly hard to do. Hope it works!
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