Hello everyone 🙂
I have a carlsbro powerline 2000 (1000 watt x2 4 ohm load)
It is similar to thomann t.amp 2400mkx or some copy...
I want to post some photo.
18 toshiba transistor for channel
Rubycon caps and nichicon caps on signal
The emitter resistor are 0.33 ohm
It's possible to change this to 0.22 ohm 5w 2%?
What type of mod can I make?
It's possible to make it stable into 2 ohm load?
Thanks a lot 🙂
I have a carlsbro powerline 2000 (1000 watt x2 4 ohm load)
It is similar to thomann t.amp 2400mkx or some copy...
I want to post some photo.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
18 toshiba transistor for channel
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Rubycon caps and nichicon caps on signal
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The emitter resistor are 0.33 ohm
It's possible to change this to 0.22 ohm 5w 2%?
What type of mod can I make?
It's possible to make it stable into 2 ohm load?
Thanks a lot 🙂
Why would you want to do that? The output stage is designed with over current protection in mind. Changing the value from 0R33 to 0R22 will mean a redesign of the bias and detection circuit.
It is not designed for 2R load as the power transformer will not handle the excess current.
It is not designed for 2R load as the power transformer will not handle the excess current.
Hy! Thanks for the reply 🙂
I want do this because I want more speaker control.
The bias regulation isn't a problem because I can reset this with a rigol oscilloscope.
I do the same on a monacor sta700 (0R50 to 0R27 and it has the same transistor)
You know some type of possible mods?
Thanks a million 🙂
I want do this because I want more speaker control.
The bias regulation isn't a problem because I can reset this with a rigol oscilloscope.
I do the same on a monacor sta700 (0R50 to 0R27 and it has the same transistor)
You know some type of possible mods?
Thanks a million 🙂
These kinds of amps tend to have ample damping factor as-is. Open-loop output impedance is only a fraction of an ohm open-loop, and feedback brings that down to negligible levels. Mid-low frequency output impedance is usually limited by output inductor resistance.
Thank you Sgross 🙂
What do you mean for inductor resistance?
Inductor of the amplifier?
You mean the small inductor and the small resistance near the output connector?
Or you mean the resistance of the cable,connector,etc?
My english is very obsolete 🙁
What do you mean for inductor resistance?
Inductor of the amplifier?
You mean the small inductor and the small resistance near the output connector?
Or you mean the resistance of the cable,connector,etc?
My english is very obsolete 🙁
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Do yourself a favor and leave as is, and use as intended.
If you need more power to drive extra speakers , get another.
If you want to save money, get a second hand one or from a cheaper brand, same specs.
Otherwise we'll meet again here, in a Month or two, in a thread called "HELP !!!!! I blew my Carlsbro Powerline 2000 !!!!! " 😉
If you need more power to drive extra speakers , get another.
If you want to save money, get a second hand one or from a cheaper brand, same specs.
Otherwise we'll meet again here, in a Month or two, in a thread called "HELP !!!!! I blew my Carlsbro Powerline 2000 !!!!! " 😉
Leave as is and use as intended.
Remember it won't blow on the bench or testing at home, but in the middle of a VERY important show.
Remember it won't blow on the bench or testing at home, but in the middle of a VERY important show.
hello everyone 🙂
where installing this type of circuit?
Mains DC and Transformers
https://maurmun.wordpress.com/2013/01/07/review-of-the-crest-audio-cc4000-amplifier/
where installing this type of circuit?
Mains DC and Transformers
https://maurmun.wordpress.com/2013/01/07/review-of-the-crest-audio-cc4000-amplifier/
there is 4 different main board
1)input/output
2)rectifier/caps
3)main board left
4)main board right
I want eliminate the first board because there is some useless function i don't need...
from 1 to 3/4 there is triple way cable non-shielded called "+/- input"
I think it's the real input to convert to unbalanced
infact
there are another two cable shielded (non balanced, but triple) from pots to 3/4 whit a 10uF caps for uncople the DC...
but near the "bridge, parallel,stereo" selector on the input board, there are three mono cable shielded...
two go on the left channel (one red and one white), and the last one go on the right channel (yellow)...
i think the white cable on the left channel serve to send the inverted or the parallel signal
how to delete these three cable?
I need only stereo mode...
meanwhile I rewired and twisted the power section 🙂
and I installed a new 3x2,5mm cable for the 230v
p.s. when I set "ground" on the rear selector, the cabinet, the earth of "+/- input" and the earth of pots cable are connected... This means I could use it directly with unbalanced signal
1)input/output
2)rectifier/caps
3)main board left
4)main board right
I want eliminate the first board because there is some useless function i don't need...
from 1 to 3/4 there is triple way cable non-shielded called "+/- input"
I think it's the real input to convert to unbalanced
infact
there are another two cable shielded (non balanced, but triple) from pots to 3/4 whit a 10uF caps for uncople the DC...
but near the "bridge, parallel,stereo" selector on the input board, there are three mono cable shielded...
two go on the left channel (one red and one white), and the last one go on the right channel (yellow)...
i think the white cable on the left channel serve to send the inverted or the parallel signal
how to delete these three cable?
I need only stereo mode...
meanwhile I rewired and twisted the power section 🙂
and I installed a new 3x2,5mm cable for the 230v
p.s. when I set "ground" on the rear selector, the cabinet, the earth of "+/- input" and the earth of pots cable are connected... This means I could use it directly with unbalanced signal
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Finally I modified the amplifier
Direct unbalanced input on the amplifier board
New power cord
New internal cabling
Next step 0R22 emitter resistance and 10uf mkp on the input signal (now there is a electrolitics polarized on the signal input)
Direct unbalanced input on the amplifier board
New power cord
New internal cabling
Next step 0R22 emitter resistance and 10uf mkp on the input signal (now there is a electrolitics polarized on the signal input)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have this amplifier too. Just cannot find any real power measurements (need to do it by my self as soon as get back my big dummy load from my friend). Nice amplifier however. I have two Tamp TA1400's too, not sure but somehow I feel like Tamp has a bit more punch.
Carlsbro claims 2x1000W/40hm and 2000W/8ohm bridged.. not quite sure if its "real" rms. I think it's just peak/music power..
Tamp has a bit higher bus voltages too (2x115V while carlsbro has 2x110V). Tamp runs also much cooler as it's class H = better efficiency.
But I do like heavy Class AB amps!
Carlsbro claims 2x1000W/40hm and 2000W/8ohm bridged.. not quite sure if its "real" rms. I think it's just peak/music power..
Tamp has a bit higher bus voltages too (2x115V while carlsbro has 2x110V). Tamp runs also much cooler as it's class H = better efficiency.
But I do like heavy Class AB amps!
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