• WARNING: Tube/Valve amplifiers use potentially LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGES.
    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
    performed by someone who is thoroughly familiar with
    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Car tube amp- looking for advice

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Or you can just buy an DC-AC inverter and build the amp as is. Is the $500 per channel or for a stereo pair?

Jazbo
That is another idea as well.You would want a pure sine wave inverter tho to keep noise level down. The down side is you are going to have power that the inverter draws and then your amp or preamp. The thing that would be nice about the little modules is,you can get the 150 watt version for like 22 dollars and the 70 watt version you saw in the video which was 13 dollars.. You take two of those and build an amp,you would not need a power transformer or a choke or big filter caps taking up tons of room.While it won't rival a home system,we are in a car so we don't really care..We just want the elegance of vacuum tube sound which we should be able to achieve.
 
Please report back on your finding, that circuit could be perfect for what I am looking for.

Would it be possible to built the same topography as the EA230 with this new power module, and omit the transformers?

I don't see why not.. You can get the 150 watt versions of those modules for 22 dollars but I think two of those modules would be ideal,the 70 watt ones.Switch mode power supplies are wonderful for these types of applications because they have gotten them so quiet.Here is what many don't realize about solid state regulation..If the devices used for regulation have a gain factor,they also become a capacitance multiplier..Take the Audio Research SP3..That uses an NPN regulator and it has a gain of 100 so any capacitance on the base and taken off at the collector for the source,will be multiplied 100 times..In other words if you have 10uf on the base,you will effectively have 1000uf at the collector.I'm using an example for simplification purposes even tho the ARC doesn't use a 10uf there.
Anyway,this is how these little modules are so incredible..I just ordered a couple to try.Imagine if we could build an otl amp..
Now Jazbo mentioned about using an inverter and I like that as well..One thing we are tethered to when we use the switchmode modules are the fact that we are going to be using DC on the output tube filaments..I hate doing that on indirectly heated output tubes but we got what we got..In each case,we are going to have to series wire the tube filaments because unless we use 12v filaments.
 
OP here, sorry I have not replied back. I honestly didn't think I would get this much feedback, and have not looked lately. Thanks so much for all the info!

Mike
This will work perfectly with the EA230 and you can dial the little modules down to the 430vdc source you need..The 6sn7 tubes we can use 12sn7s and this way we don't need to series wire the filaments..The 12at7 is the same in that we don't have to series wire the filaments.
Where we will have a slight issue is the 200v c minus rail we use for bias the tail of the PS...I think that's what I saw..Anyway, Eli Duttman would have some ideas how we can tap the minus 200v because there is very little current there so it can probably taken off the minus side of the supply like Berning does but we will have to see where we can do it on the modules.
 
This sounds promising. So it looks like I have 3 options, if I am to clone the Milbert.
1.) Mimic the BAM-235ab circuit as it is
2.) Clone the EA230, and use an inverter
3.) Clone the EA230, but use the new power module for the b+

In terms of sound quality, which would be the best choice?

I don't know...You would need a pure sine wave inverter I would guess but they aren't too bad. If you are going to build the amp,the modules would be cheaper way of doing it because you won't have to buy a power trans and a choke and filters and the power inverter to boot..If you have an amp already,an inverter would be feasible but again,there is ups and downs to both.
If you think about it,I would go with the modules because you can always do the transformer,choke,and inverter option later...Look how cheap the modules are.
 
I don't know...You would need a pure sine wave inverter I would guess but they aren't too bad. If you are going to build the amp,the modules would be cheaper way of doing it because you won't have to buy a power trans and a choke and filters and the power inverter to boot..If you have an amp already,an inverter would be feasible but again,there is ups and downs to both.
If you think about it,I would go with the modules because you can always do the transformer,choke,and inverter option later...Look how cheap the modules are.

Good point and thanks again for the advice!
 
I ran 1625s in a 1980 Honda for about three years and never had problems. I used a st70 chassis with a different driver so it had 12at7s instead of 7199s. It is worth doing for a daily driver. I ran mine from 100hz up and a mosfet amp for the subwoofers.

Excellent tubes to use..Those are 12v fil 807s and are not to bad to drive with the 7199 or 6u8a tube.
 
Check out these 150 watt inverters at 450v..I don't know if they are adjustable but the 70 watt ones are and we can also use an extra 70 watt one for the minus 200v supply..We are talking 33usd for 3 including shipping..Here is the 150 watt one tho.
12V to DC450V 150W High Voltage Converter Boost Step Up Power Capacitance Charge | eBay


The power supply options make this easier theese days. I think if I were to build one now, I would go with half cathode bias and use maybe two 9v batteries for negative bias. That worked great before. If you planned to bi-amp with a SS amp on the low end, then you can also choose smaller output transformers. Amp weight could be cut smewhat.
 
The power supply options make this easier theese days. I think if I were to build one now, I would go with half cathode bias and use maybe two 9v batteries for negative bias. That worked great before. If you planned to bi-amp with a SS amp on the low end, then you can also choose smaller output transformers. Amp weight could be cut smewhat.

Yes,I like the idea of combination bias and the twin 9v batteries hooked up with pos to ground would be ideal being it draws almost no current.
 
Its been a while on this thread but haven't forgotton about it.

Hello,
I am in the process of building a very high end car system. For the top end, I am using B&W Matrix 801 mids and B&W Silver Signature tweeters. I am interested to get opinions on a couple of amp choices. The system will be fully active.

A few weeks back when we covered this subject and I had gotten a pair of the variable to 450vdc 70 watt power supplies and they are nice and clean but then i found this and it's 200 watt and it does 450vdc with 12v in so we are good shape to power a dyna ST70 or an ST35 or even an SCA35 with one of these..Ill see when it gets here.
DC75 660V Adjustable 200W High Voltage Converter Boost Power Capacitance Charger | eBay
 
Hello all, reviving an old post.

I have hooked up with a knowledgeable amp builder, the owner of PJL. I know little about building an amp. He is going to build a Milbert clone and we are going to compare to his SE KT150 design.

I am trying to determine for sure the tubes used in the Milbert.
From what I can tell, here is what I see:
12at7 (2)
6sn7 (2)
6jn6 (4)
?(2)

Here is a pic if it helps. I am also trying to determine the brand they use to try to get as close as possible. I have looked at many pics on line and it looks like they are not consistent, perhaps based on availability? I believe the 6sn7 are only NOS?

Thanks again!
 

Attachments

  • 19Tubes.jpg
    19Tubes.jpg
    158.3 KB · Views: 154
I just found this thread, and I'm fascinated by the idea of 1) building a car tube amp and 2) avoiding blowing a ton of money a commercial one, since they appear to be pretty basic designs.

Since the Milbert is so rare (and expensive) and I can't find schematics, etc., I decided to duplicate a Dynaco ST-70 for now, and see how that goes. I've ordered most of the parts.

Here's what I've planned/ordered so far:

  • Negative bias supply: I got an adjustable DC-DC step up supply 0-80V or so and will power from an isolated DC-DC 12V-12V supply, and wire to provide a negative voltage.
  • High-voltage supply: DC-DC step-up supplies, similar to what's been mentioned, from eBay Chinese sellers (I bought 2 so I could try both types).
  • Heater voltages:: Either wired in series or using the inexpensive LM2596 adjustable switching supplies from eBay. These are pretty good and $2 or so.

Haven't purchased output transformers yet. I anticipate ~$250 for those.

The total cost, should everything work out, is probably < $400.

I picked the Dynaco since I'm new to tube amps and needed a good starting point. I built a switching DC-DC supply in the past and modified one to +260V out for a preamp but I'd rather avoid the hassle if possible so I'm buying these supplies to try.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Side note: All the commercial car "tube" amps from back in the day were a joke [except maybe Butler and Milbert], and basically only used preamp stage tubes, and they weren't even running at the optimal (high) voltage, just near 12V.

I owned a Planet Audio HVT754 hybrid tube amp and although it was ok there was not a tonal difference worth mentioning. I could barely tell the difference. So this appeared to have been a marketing/novelty thing rather than real design virtue. :(

(I used to install car stereo equipment back in the day before I graduated college, and saw a lot of the marketing gimmics over the years. I was fascinated by reading about Earl Zausmer's famous BMW with the Milbert BaM235 amps. Supposedly it sounded superb.)
 
One more thing: you need to anticipate the very likely chance of ground loop noise as the DC-DC supply would not be isolated. It happened to me in the past on a car amp project I built.

I don't know but I assume the Milbert mobile design has input stages for removing this, as do commercial transistor-based amps.

This is a problem I expect to have to deal with, in order to be prepared for "worst case" since it's such a pain. There are inline line-level isolation transformers that some people use but of course the cheap ones have poor frequency response so it would be important to find a better quality one.
 
Last edited:
Hello MartyM. Glad to see I am not the only car freak out there. You are correct about Earl's car. I was fortunate enough to hear it many time, several hours of seat time. It was, without question, the most realistic, warm, full, impact sounding system I ever hear; car, home, headphones... Over the years, Earl and I have become good friends. The car I am building is inspired by his car- same yr 5 series, same mid/tweeters and tube amps.

Good luck on your build and keep us posted. Very exciting!
 
Since there are only about seven people left running their KWM-2 or TR-4 mobile, there are scads of old ham radio DC-DC transceiver supplies left collecting dust, and looking for a purpose.

They can supply B+, screen voltage, and bias; they were made for ICAS, but I bet they could run a twenty watt or so / channel amp on a continuous basis without overheating and croaking. They use a step up transformer ( at least mine do ) so they're isolated.

If it says Collins on it, it would be price prohibitive for this type of project, but other brands should be really inexpensive, since they are effectively useless these days.

Win W5JAG
 
Wow, that is awesome that you have the same speakers and even the car, plus got to hear his. I of course couldn't, but I did have the magazine issue featuring his car and read elsewhere about other guys who heard it, too and had a extra little info.

I got the Mapleshade Records fidelity music that Earl mentioned somewhere that he had let people try his car also, and the sound is really good and I will use it as reference material from here out (In addition to my Autosound 2000 Test CD).

This is a very worthwhile challenge I think, and going around the problem of super-expensive amps is really motivating to me. Being an engineer now I'm highly motivated to do this. If I'm successful I want to document it well and post it on the internet for others to be able to recreate it fairly easily.
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.