Car audio System for my 1971 Blazer

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I just bought a 1971 Blazer that I am finishing up.
I brought it to a car audio place and asked what their recommendation for a system.
Here is what they recommended:
Head Unit - Pioneer DEHP6900UB
Amp - Audison LRX5.1K
Front Speakers - Hertz MLK165
Rear Speakers- Hertz HCX165
Subs- 2-10" Image Dynamics IDQ10
Audio Line Driver - Audio Control Matrix
Pre-Amp Level Controller - Peripheral PRC1

I know that this would be an incredible system, but I don't want to spend close to $4,000 on the components.

I have read reviews on the Pioneer head unit and I want to stay with it.

I am going to put the front speakers in kick panel enclosures, rear in the side panels, and the subs in enclosures under the rear bench seat.

Can anyone propose another less expensive direction and still get decent sound quality in the Blazer?
I am willing to spend $1500 -2,000 on the components.
I also have a set of new JL Audio TR525-CX (5.25") speakers that I never used in my boat.

Any help appreciated.
 
I can understand your hesitation, Donzi. That's a lot of cash for components.

Cool truck, is the top removable?

First thought: A '71 Blazer is not exactly the ideal platform for a hi fidelity system. Unless of course, you've made it all warm and fuzzy inside. At least in stock form, it's metal, glass and vinyl. Reflections abound, and I question whether you'd be able to appreciate the difference between a pair of $500 separates and a pair of $200 separates in that environment.

That's not to say you can't get a great sounding system in there. About your expectations:

What are you looking for out of your system? What kind of music? Are you going DIY, and if so, to what extent?

Tim
 
Top is removable.
The entire truck is restored with sound deadener in door panels, floor, firewall etc. Truck is fully carpeted, although the roof is fiberglass.

I plan on having kick panels for the front speakers and the rears will be in the side panels. Subboxes and amp under rear bench.

I will either have a friend who has done installs or bring the components to a shop for installation.
 
Installation Suggestions

Hi, I have a side job doing installations for customers around metro Atlanta. A lot of them tell me the same thing you just posted (retailers trying to upsell on what you don't want or need).

The list you got is definitely not required hardware for really good sound!

My recommendation would be something like:

A. Keep the Pioneer (I installed that unit in a Del Sol, pretty satisfied with it, good features/expandability)

B. Main amp: (IF desired) ALPINE MRP-F250 4 CH [plenty of adjustable crossovers/good unit]

C. Front speakers: "some brand name" $50+ /pair, as needed for this installation (example: Polk, Infinity, Alpine, and so on...)

D. Rear speakers: (see above)


E. Sub(s) & sub amp.: (IF desired): one or two 10" or 12", sealed enclosure, say $100-$200 based on preference. Maybe $100-$150 for the sub amplifier, can be less expensive

F. Audio line driver: A little bit of overkill!

G. Amp wiring kit (10ga.): Average $27 Streetwires or other reputable brand... (Not Audiopipe, etc.)

H. Misc. wire and parts as needed to fit installation ( installer's recommendation)

Note that is assuming you want to power the speakers using an amp. There are pros and cons both ways, but if it's a loud vehicle you might consider it for the small diff. in price.

I'm assuming you want good equipment & sound that's loud enough, but you're not out to win any contests.

I'm also assuming the door or sheet metal may have to be cut for installing the speakers so that will affect the size/depth of speaker to be used.

Really you can get a full system of good sounding & new equipment for about $800-900 SHIPPED with eBay powerseller (reputable high volume seller) store pricing. Add more for retail stores.

I figure if you get a good price on the installation you can come in at less than $1,100+ parts and installation.

Well good luck. I recommend stuff like that to my customers all the time. But most important to find a competent installer-they'll give you the straight talk you need and won't damage your vehicle, etc.
 
i agree with the 2 above posts for the most part. i don't think you really need a line driver and if i were you i would use your existing jl speakers for rear fill and get some decent components for up front but don't spend a fortune. the pioneer head unit should do fine. the audison amps are very pricey so i'd go with alpines or some other more affordable respectable brand. the image dynamics subs are very nice but you can find some good subs for less such as alpine and others. good luck and nice truck! any pictures?
 
Donziman, sorry I overlooked the part about you mounting the speakers in the kick panels and so on.

My specific reasons for the Pioneer (aside from personally installing it) were also that it provides an AUX input as well as good iPod connectivity if you so choose and the faceplate is detachable. Also, plenty of audio controls too. Hard to beat for that price!

I've had a lot of happy customers using the Pioneer & JVC units and the Alpine 4-ch amps (along with other similiar units); those were also due to customer budget constraints.

When it comes to picking out equipment, it is, for most people, about a good compromise between quality, performance, and price.

You can email me if you have questions also. I have a lot of hands-on experience with these issues.

But there are some really knowledgeable people here also. :)

www.gwinnett-mobile.com


:snoopy:
 
Hi Donziman!

How much you spend for a car, when you want to spend $4K for Hi-Fi?

Regards zeoN_Rider
 

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Wow, 4K is a huge amount of cash. I agree with MartyM in fact unless you want new I would get an ebay alpine in great condition, they are on there < $100 often. If I were to spend the cash, I would get a GOOD HU for $300-600 and that would improve the sound of your system more IMO than other things. A Pioneer 880/etc, top of line Clarion or Alpine offer powerful processing and crossover options that can really help you out. I don't know your priorities for how loud or what quality you want, type of music....those are also important items to select components with such as amp size and maybe speaker types. Mach5 are nice subs for the cost, check out the maw series....depending on your power range. Unless you need a cool name on them.

Also what size drivers you think you will use...just those 4 locations + the sub? And what room do you have for the subs in cubic foot?

If it fit your needs......I would be a little temped to go old school with it and mount 4 good 6x9 in there with a sub of some kind. Might have to put something high in dash/door to help imaging, but I always found two sets of 6x9 to be quite powerful. Four work great in boats, in fact some brands had 7x10s we used...talk about mid bass, it was great.
 
I just purchased an new ArcAmp KS900.6 fo a great price.
I think this will give me all the power and versatility I will need.

So now to decide on the speakers and subs.
I want to use my 5" JL's in the rear panels for fill.

On a component speaker how close do the tweeters need to be
to the main speaker?
Can the speaker be in the kick and the tweeter be installed in the upper forward section of the door or does this totally mess with the sound?
 
Depends on who you ask. The tweeters up high can lift and improve the stage. Others say you should keep them close but if your stage sucks then what does it matter? I have actually hooked them up and held them in different spots to determine, when I had a choice like that. It will help to angle drivers in the kicks up and back, especially smaller mids and tweeters. I prefer the tweeters up high if possible, too many legs and consoles and what not down there...though your truck may be more open than a typical car. Bigger cars seem to do better with tweets down there, and your legs are lower so the tweets are above your legs. I could not see a tweeter down there in my little car no way, and line of sight is very important for me with a tweeter or I don't hear it well IMO. Not so bad with a mid.

That sounds like a heck on an amp.
 
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