Hi!!
I have a problem with my car amp! I bound the tension feeding badly. In Ground i've put +12V and in +12V put the ground wire. Since then the amp didn't work any more. Seems dead! I don't know much about car amps but i know something about electronics. Someone can help me? I need to know how car amps work and what can it be in this case.
Thank's in advance
PauLo
I have a problem with my car amp! I bound the tension feeding badly. In Ground i've put +12V and in +12V put the ground wire. Since then the amp didn't work any more. Seems dead! I don't know much about car amps but i know something about electronics. Someone can help me? I need to know how car amps work and what can it be in this case.
Thank's in advance
PauLo
generally they have a diode to prevent against reverse polarity... you connect the leads around the wrong way, and the fuse blows... if not.. good luck 😀
Amp
The fuse is ok! I think that zenner diode is ok too!
I repaired that when I place the amp under voltage, the two irfz34 switchs they heat because I took off the heat spendthrifts.
What can it be since the amp doesn't turn on?
The fuse is ok! I think that zenner diode is ok too!
I repaired that when I place the amp under voltage, the two irfz34 switchs they heat because I took off the heat spendthrifts.
What can it be since the amp doesn't turn on?
Hey paulo_401,
Sometimes they do not integrate the reverse polarity protection diode and it should not blow the fuse when you apply the power incorrectly.
I was thinking of putting a reverse polarity protection feature in my audio amplifier design, but I found that at ~15A continuous with ~0.7V drop wastes over 10W of power. This is a pretty unattractive thing when measuring efficiency..
Steve
Sometimes they do not integrate the reverse polarity protection diode and it should not blow the fuse when you apply the power incorrectly.
I was thinking of putting a reverse polarity protection feature in my audio amplifier design, but I found that at ~15A continuous with ~0.7V drop wastes over 10W of power. This is a pretty unattractive thing when measuring efficiency..
Steve
Most car amps i've seen have the diode paralleled to the input,and reversed,so that if the leads get switched,the diode conducts,and pops the fuse.
Sometimes the diode will pop before the fuse,and you'll get a spike of reverse polarity to the rest of the amp...bye-bye SMPS mosfets.
(SS always fries to protect the precious fuse!)
I tend to think that the series diode in the + leg is better,since if the polarity is reversed,*NO* current will flow.Nothing will fry.
But you have the issue of the power dissipated in the diode.
A Schottky,or Fast-Recovery type might be better here,as the voltage drop is usually about half of a 'regular' diode (about .25-35V IME, instead of .7V)
Sometimes the diode will pop before the fuse,and you'll get a spike of reverse polarity to the rest of the amp...bye-bye SMPS mosfets.
(SS always fries to protect the precious fuse!)
I tend to think that the series diode in the + leg is better,since if the polarity is reversed,*NO* current will flow.Nothing will fry.
But you have the issue of the power dissipated in the diode.
A Schottky,or Fast-Recovery type might be better here,as the voltage drop is usually about half of a 'regular' diode (about .25-35V IME, instead of .7V)
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