Hello everybody,
I have an older 4 channel car amp, 60w rms per channel @4ohms, 100w @2ohms, 2x200w @4ohm bridged.
Every channel is powered with Sanken 8A 2sa1694 and 2sc4467 transitor pair, rail voltage is 24v @ 12v input.
I would like to upgrade output transistors to a 15A 2sa1294 and 2sc3263 pair to achieve 80-90w rms per channel.
I have 4ohm 125w rms speakers so I would not connect any 2ohm speakers nor use channel bridging as that would most likely kill power mosfets (4x DFP50N06) or rectifiers.
Is this doable, should I choose other transistor pair, what else should I consider replacing, drivers, base resistors?
I have an older 4 channel car amp, 60w rms per channel @4ohms, 100w @2ohms, 2x200w @4ohm bridged.
Every channel is powered with Sanken 8A 2sa1694 and 2sc4467 transitor pair, rail voltage is 24v @ 12v input.
I would like to upgrade output transistors to a 15A 2sa1294 and 2sc3263 pair to achieve 80-90w rms per channel.
I have 4ohm 125w rms speakers so I would not connect any 2ohm speakers nor use channel bridging as that would most likely kill power mosfets (4x DFP50N06) or rectifiers.
Is this doable, should I choose other transistor pair, what else should I consider replacing, drivers, base resistors?
If you are not going to reduce the load impedance on the amp, there will be no benefit by replacing the transistors.
To increase the power, you either need to increase the rail voltage or reduce the load impedance.
To increase the power, you either need to increase the rail voltage or reduce the load impedance.
Unfortunately it’s not that simple you can’t simply swap in higher power transistors to get more output power.
The power output is given by the rail voltages and load impedance relation, not the power transistors themselves, and as it has been said, either you increase load voltages or you decrease the load impedance.
Increasing the rail voltages is more complicated and expensive than getting a new higher power amplifier.
But before you go to the more power way, you should make sure you have good quality speakers.
It's useless getting a big and expensive power amplifier if your drivers are crappy ones.
Having high SPL speakers means that they simply sound much louder with less power.
PS: High power sound in such a small space as the car is really harmful for your years, you may not feel it right away but in time you will want more and more power, you will always feel it's not enough, that is also because slowly but surely you loose part of your hearing.
Also high power amplifiers drain the battery quite fast, and a car battery does not like to be drain at all.
I for one am quite satisfied with my car's own sound system, it's loud enough for my needs.
Increasing the rail voltages is more complicated and expensive than getting a new higher power amplifier.
But before you go to the more power way, you should make sure you have good quality speakers.
It's useless getting a big and expensive power amplifier if your drivers are crappy ones.
Having high SPL speakers means that they simply sound much louder with less power.
PS: High power sound in such a small space as the car is really harmful for your years, you may not feel it right away but in time you will want more and more power, you will always feel it's not enough, that is also because slowly but surely you loose part of your hearing.
Also high power amplifiers drain the battery quite fast, and a car battery does not like to be drain at all.
I for one am quite satisfied with my car's own sound system, it's loud enough for my needs.
Thank you all for answers.
I considered increasing rail voltage, but yes, it's complicated.
I am well aware of slippery slope of endless upgrades, possible hearing damage and what tinnitus is. Car sound upgrade started with just a front speakers upgrade and ended up installing 2 amplifiers, a subwoofer, Audison voce speakers and sound deadening on all 4 doors. 😀
I'm looking for more headroom in the amplifier as once in a while when I want to listen to live rock music this amp not being able to reproduce kick drum on higher volume ruins the experience.
I could get a new transformer and capacitors, but what else would need replacing is above my head.
Straight forward solution would be to buy a new amplifier, but I'm more inclined to learn and modify, where possible of course.
I considered increasing rail voltage, but yes, it's complicated.
I am well aware of slippery slope of endless upgrades, possible hearing damage and what tinnitus is. Car sound upgrade started with just a front speakers upgrade and ended up installing 2 amplifiers, a subwoofer, Audison voce speakers and sound deadening on all 4 doors. 😀
I'm looking for more headroom in the amplifier as once in a while when I want to listen to live rock music this amp not being able to reproduce kick drum on higher volume ruins the experience.
I could get a new transformer and capacitors, but what else would need replacing is above my head.
Straight forward solution would be to buy a new amplifier, but I'm more inclined to learn and modify, where possible of course.
If you increase the rail voltage, the rest of the components need to be modified and the amp may end up only being able to run at full power for short periods, like a dragster vs a car you can drive across country.
I think an increase in power from 60 to 80watts on the same set of speakers won't yield any noticeable audible difference
Agreed, upgrade to 100w rms per channel would make the difference worth the effort.
Conclusion is that this particular amp is not a good platform for more power.
Components could take more voltage, but no room for bigger rail capacitors and small heatsink would make it unreliable.
Conclusion is that this particular amp is not a good platform for more power.
Components could take more voltage, but no room for bigger rail capacitors and small heatsink would make it unreliable.
There’s only so much power you can put to a car door, and you’re about there already.
More sound deadening, more time with alignment/eq to eliminate peaks. Better cables can help, Mogami is available assembled from a competitive epay seller.
Can also play with the reduction of the rear wave using alternative deadening materials.
I’ve used loosely rolled bundles of common bubble wrap, others have used fiberglass batts sealed inside thin, plastic disposable painters tarps.
More sound deadening, more time with alignment/eq to eliminate peaks. Better cables can help, Mogami is available assembled from a competitive epay seller.
Can also play with the reduction of the rear wave using alternative deadening materials.
I’ve used loosely rolled bundles of common bubble wrap, others have used fiberglass batts sealed inside thin, plastic disposable painters tarps.