I'm working on a parts order for a phono-stage. The designer has recommended all sorts of expensive caps and resistors. What I'm looking for is advice on the type (and possibly brand) for different areas of the circuit.
1) RIAA caps.
2) Coupling caps between stages and final cap. D3A => 5687 => output.
3) PS caps
Same questions related to resistors.
TIA
Dave
1) RIAA caps.
2) Coupling caps between stages and final cap. D3A => 5687 => output.
3) PS caps
Same questions related to resistors.
TIA
Dave
For PS caps try to use film not electrolytic. Lower noise and more stable. I like Clarity caps for a not stupidly expensive coupling cap. Some people go with orange drop caps as a cheap alternative but make sure you get the copper lead type of theirs, either 715 or 716 I forget which. For RIAA caps look for polystyrene or other higher quality cap. Keep tolerances tight especially in the RIAA. As said, use 1% metal film resistors in the RIAA. PRP is a less expensive but good type. Caddock are really good but very pricy if you can get the values you need. Let us know what you do and the result.
I've used "expensive" parts and parts that had good enough spec according to the datasheets for RIAA.
For power supply caps, I use Rubycon, Samxon, Samyoung or Ymin.
For RIAA, I usually go with Kyet, Carli, Tenta, or Xiamin Faratronic. I have found no need to go with even Illinois or CDE for these part, and the entire filter costs $1 to build. Hand matching 5% parts costs far less money than buying 1% parts, too.
For resistors, I use 1% MF. Brand is not important as specs like PPM and voltage ratings IMHO.
For power supply caps, I use Rubycon, Samxon, Samyoung or Ymin.
For RIAA, I usually go with Kyet, Carli, Tenta, or Xiamin Faratronic. I have found no need to go with even Illinois or CDE for these part, and the entire filter costs $1 to build. Hand matching 5% parts costs far less money than buying 1% parts, too.
For resistors, I use 1% MF. Brand is not important as specs like PPM and voltage ratings IMHO.
If you buy cheap 5% capacitors, get about ten times the number you need, in order to have a decent chance
of getting a matched 1% pair. Or, some vendors will match them for you, for a small charge.
of getting a matched 1% pair. Or, some vendors will match them for you, for a small charge.
Wima fkp2 can be found with 2,5% and 5% tolerance. I'm using these for riaa network.
FWIW. The "5%" caps I bought all measured within 1%. This was a sample size of 50 pieces of https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Polypropylene-Film-Capacitors-CBB_KYET-KP104J2J1006_C390130.html
Bonus: They're 5 cents each.
Bonus: They're 5 cents each.
The mark of a poor designer.I'm working on a parts order for a phono-stage. The designer has recommended all sorts of expensive caps and resistors. What I'm looking for is advice on the type (and possibly brand) for different areas of the circuit.
1) RIAA caps.
2) Coupling caps between stages and final cap. D3A => 5687 => output.
3) PS caps
Same questions related to resistors.
TIA
Dave
Equations include many variables, but NONE does Brand or Price, that should tell you something.
Circuit Simulators neither .... maybe they are all wrong?
The best sounding inexpensive and small coupling/feedback caps I have used are WIMA FKP series film and foil caps. I recently upgraded a MoFi Ultraphono preamp by replacing the polyester caps with WIMA FKP3 caps which I had to stack to get the right value. After break-in, it sounded as musically pleasing as my Tubes 4 Hifi PH16 phono preamp with Odam's, V-Cap CuTF's, and Jupiter copper foil's in the 3 RIAA/coupling positions.
The V-Cap Odam film caps are my favorite not-too-crazy-expensive caps. These are also smaller than other boutique caps.



The V-Cap Odam film caps are my favorite not-too-crazy-expensive caps. These are also smaller than other boutique caps.



716 is the copper leaded film and foil.For PS caps try to use film not electrolytic. Lower noise and more stable. I like Clarity caps for a not stupidly expensive coupling cap. Some people go with orange drop caps as a cheap alternative but make sure you get the copper lead type of theirs, either 715 or 716 I forget which. For RIAA caps look for polystyrene or other higher quality cap. Keep tolerances tight especially in the RIAA. As said, use 1% metal film resistors in the RIAA. PRP is a less expensive but good type. Caddock are really good but very pricy if you can get the values you need. Let us know what you do and the result.
Personally, I cannot afford copper, silver or gold foils; I am agnostic as to whether they provide audibly or measurably better performance. Tin foil is within reach. If one can afford more esoteric foils, I have no word against doing so.You're worried about steel leads but not the aluminum foil inside?
It is, however, relatively easy to source small capacitors with copper leads, as opposed to steel, and they do not have a great price premium. Accordingly, why not go through the extra effort and slight cost increase to get copper leads?
Having trouble finding a styroflex cap 250V or more in 0.1uf and 0.033uf. Even harder to find them in better than 10% tolerance. Any specific suggestions?
Indulge yourself: buy one of these $10 component testers. They're better than 1% for capacitors and resistors.
I usually buy values a notch or two below target and patch them up with smaller ones.
I usually buy values a notch or two below target and patch them up with smaller ones.
If you have enough -large- buildable area the old soviet silver mica (SSG series) anf FT teflon capacitors also a feasibility.
Sample: RIIA parts of C3g phono (SSG-1 silver mica, FT-2, FT-3 teflon capacitors, RC55Y resistors). The PSU capacitors are Philips (now Vishay) BC series.

Sadly nowadays the silver mica capacitor price is horrible.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=silver+mica&_osacat=0
Sample: RIIA parts of C3g phono (SSG-1 silver mica, FT-2, FT-3 teflon capacitors, RC55Y resistors). The PSU capacitors are Philips (now Vishay) BC series.

Sadly nowadays the silver mica capacitor price is horrible.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=silver+mica&_osacat=0
Most components have small tolerances if made in the same batch. If you can buy components from the same batch, i.e., banded resistors or capacitors, they usually have a tolerance of much less than the marked value, even though they could be say 1% within each other but still 4% off from the nominal value. So if you need two capacitors with same value make sure they are from the same batch.FWIW, The "5%" caps I bought were all measured within 1%.
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