Hi guys.
I'm working on a pair of Interdyn Model 212's.
They'll need refoaming.
I found a single Shizuki 3.3 uF in each enclosure.
They are Shizuki 1,000vdc 2DNO caps.
Would these be electrolytic?
They are red/brown in colour and unusually shaped (none cylindrical)
Refer:
3.3UF 1000VDC 2DN0 CAPACITOR SHIZUKI | RGB Automatyka industrial automation center
cheers
Cliff
I'm working on a pair of Interdyn Model 212's.
They'll need refoaming.
I found a single Shizuki 3.3 uF in each enclosure.
They are Shizuki 1,000vdc 2DNO caps.
Would these be electrolytic?
They are red/brown in colour and unusually shaped (none cylindrical)
Refer:
3.3UF 1000VDC 2DN0 CAPACITOR SHIZUKI | RGB Automatyka industrial automation center
cheers
Cliff
They look like polypropylene film capacitors --not much info provided ,if they are real film good, if metalised they would do the job but not as good.
No they are not electrolytic.
Film capacitors don't need reforming just tested for leakage/insulation.
To really test them a normal digital multimeter wont do at that high voltage working , seemingly "testing okay " on an ohms scale does NOT prove they are okay at high voltage continuous working.
Look even my old high quality polypropylene capacitors are still okay but they are film not metallic , they should be alright but testing is proof .
No they are not electrolytic.
Film capacitors don't need reforming just tested for leakage/insulation.
To really test them a normal digital multimeter wont do at that high voltage working , seemingly "testing okay " on an ohms scale does NOT prove they are okay at high voltage continuous working.
Look even my old high quality polypropylene capacitors are still okay but they are film not metallic , they should be alright but testing is proof .
They look like polypropylene film capacitors --not much info provided ,if they are real film good, if metalised they would do the job but not as good.
No they are not electrolytic.
Film capacitors don't need reforming just tested for leakage/insulation.
To really test them a normal digital multimeter wont do at that high voltage working , seemingly "testing okay " on an ohms scale does NOT prove they are okay at high voltage continuous working.
Look even my old high quality polypropylene capacitors are still okay but they are film not metallic , they should be alright but testing is proof .
As I'm not equipped to test, and as they're stamped + or - 10% variance, I'll replace them with modern poly caps.
These Interdyn's do look high quality for the time.
SEAS Scandinavian drivers, soldered connections to drivers, and the Japanese caps.
I need to refoam the drivers, so re capping won't go astray.
I'll also dump the fibreglass wadding in favour of something more suitable.
I would say high quality Japanese style metalised something dielectric film.
Were these high quality and more expensive for their time?
Hence the wide usage of electrolytic.
The Jantzen Caps are 5% tolerance, and possibly yield better performance??
"Were they more expensive for their time"--yes .
What I call "real " polypropylene capacitors of high voltage working ,by that I mean quality polypropylene FILM not "metalised " were very expensive -- I still have some .
To get round this two things happened --cheaper versions were metalised and/or the working voltage was reduced this allowed thinner polypropylene film to be used saving production costs and boosting sales which still retaining the advertising label .
What I call "real " polypropylene capacitors of high voltage working ,by that I mean quality polypropylene FILM not "metalised " were very expensive -- I still have some .
To get round this two things happened --cheaper versions were metalised and/or the working voltage was reduced this allowed thinner polypropylene film to be used saving production costs and boosting sales which still retaining the advertising label .
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