It depends what you use for the high pass on the mains. I tend to not like dsp and such and would avoid another processing for the mains. active sub all the way though! I dont thnk its problematic for subs and actually ideal to go active sub passive 2-way mains.
For records flat imaging, it all comes down to the mastering and this you cannot do anything about it. if the record is mastered flat, it will sound flat even with the best system.
For records flat imaging, it all comes down to the mastering and this you cannot do anything about it. if the record is mastered flat, it will sound flat even with the best system.
Hi BuBu
Some of the designs suggested work well but are complex in their construction. The Seas 3 way classic & Classic Mk II's aren't floor standers. However as you have subs they could work quite well. Also note that the Classic's dont play all that low at the bottom end.
The zaph|audio Dayton tower 3.5 way is another well known design and again is relatively complex.
Personally I would never go two way with home theater as two ways inherently lose out in the mid-range. 3 ways give you much better quality. As you can see this thread has got a little off track, so here are some basic questions.
General considerations
Speaker design parameters
Notes:
For good music reproduction I would recommend a three way design that is full frequency response ie: 20Hz to 20000kHz. I am not a fan of using subs for music reproduction and it alters the perspective of the sound track too much for my taste. You may feel differently and only you can decide what sounds best for you.
For the room size that you have mentioned I would think an enclose in the 30 to 50 liter range would certainly do the job. Smaller if you have space issues, although too small and you will start to smother the 8 inch woofer.
If this is your first 3-way build I would keep it simple and aim for a good frequency response and relatively standard enclosure design. Spend some time here and on other sites a look at designs that others have done and you will likely get a pretty good idea of what you want to build.
For me personally, I loathe subs. Sure I know why makers make them, and how audio sound works for H.T. but I don't use a sub and I'm actually better off for it. Most bass sound between 20 to 40 Hz is heard more as a rumble than as a definable sound, this is true of a lot of music recorded today.
However if I listen to certain music tracks, there are clear and discernible notes in music in this low region and I like this to be produced by my main speakers and not a sub. Subs are made to handle the thump and bump sounds of H.T soundtracks , but if you build large full spectrum speakers I find the bass response is better than most 5.1 systems I've heard. Having said that . if money is no object I have also heaard HT systems in the over $100,00.00 range that will knock your socks off
To that end I slightly reworked one of Troels designs to suit my taste and needs. You can see the build thread for these in my signature at the bottom of the post. Once these were run in we tested in room under normal working conditions for frequency response. Several test runs were made using a variety of sound tracks and test cd's. Frequency response was recorded from 17Hz to 21000 kHz. A little lower now at 20000kHz at the top as I have just swapped out a set of titanium tweeters for some nice silk domes.
Sorry for the big read but theres a lot to consider before you spend your hard earned money. I wish you luck in your endeavors.
Some of the designs suggested work well but are complex in their construction. The Seas 3 way classic & Classic Mk II's aren't floor standers. However as you have subs they could work quite well. Also note that the Classic's dont play all that low at the bottom end.
The zaph|audio Dayton tower 3.5 way is another well known design and again is relatively complex.
Personally I would never go two way with home theater as two ways inherently lose out in the mid-range. 3 ways give you much better quality. As you can see this thread has got a little off track, so here are some basic questions.
General considerations
- How much experience do you have speaker building?
- Do you have access to a good tools or workshop.
- Do you have good software for computer modelling designs and crossovers.
- What physical size do you want the speakers to be, for example tall and narrow with depth or something a little wider and not so deep.
- Do you absolutely need floor-standers.
- What about decor ( color and style), seems silly but can be very important, es[ecially if you have a partner who like things to look right and match other furnishings.
Speaker design parameters
- Will these speakers be used for home theater only?
- If they are used for music what frequency response do you want ( see notes)
- What type of music do you listen.
- Can the speakers be set against the wall?
- Is there enough room /distance from wall to allow for a rear ported enclosure.
- What series of drivers have you in mind ( if any at this point )
- Will you be using ply or mdf for construction
- Do you have a preference for crossover componentry
- Have you constructed crossovers previously
Notes:
For good music reproduction I would recommend a three way design that is full frequency response ie: 20Hz to 20000kHz. I am not a fan of using subs for music reproduction and it alters the perspective of the sound track too much for my taste. You may feel differently and only you can decide what sounds best for you.
For the room size that you have mentioned I would think an enclose in the 30 to 50 liter range would certainly do the job. Smaller if you have space issues, although too small and you will start to smother the 8 inch woofer.
If this is your first 3-way build I would keep it simple and aim for a good frequency response and relatively standard enclosure design. Spend some time here and on other sites a look at designs that others have done and you will likely get a pretty good idea of what you want to build.
For me personally, I loathe subs. Sure I know why makers make them, and how audio sound works for H.T. but I don't use a sub and I'm actually better off for it. Most bass sound between 20 to 40 Hz is heard more as a rumble than as a definable sound, this is true of a lot of music recorded today.
However if I listen to certain music tracks, there are clear and discernible notes in music in this low region and I like this to be produced by my main speakers and not a sub. Subs are made to handle the thump and bump sounds of H.T soundtracks , but if you build large full spectrum speakers I find the bass response is better than most 5.1 systems I've heard. Having said that . if money is no object I have also heaard HT systems in the over $100,00.00 range that will knock your socks off
To that end I slightly reworked one of Troels designs to suit my taste and needs. You can see the build thread for these in my signature at the bottom of the post. Once these were run in we tested in room under normal working conditions for frequency response. Several test runs were made using a variety of sound tracks and test cd's. Frequency response was recorded from 17Hz to 21000 kHz. A little lower now at 20000kHz at the top as I have just swapped out a set of titanium tweeters for some nice silk domes.
Sorry for the big read but theres a lot to consider before you spend your hard earned money. I wish you luck in your endeavors.
Last edited:
Hi BuBu
Some of the designs suggested work well but are complex in their construction. The Seas 3 way classic & Classic Mk II's aren't floor standers. However as you have subs they could work quite well. Also note that the Classic's dont play all that low at the bottom end.
The zaph|audio Dayton tower 3.5 way is another well known design and again is relatively complex.
Personally I would never go two way with home theater as two ways inherently lose out in the mid-range. 3 ways give you much better quality. As you can see this thread has got a little off track, so here are some basic questions.
General considerations
- How much experience do you have speaker building?
- Do you have access to a good tools or workshop.
- Do you have good software for computer modelling designs and crossovers.
- What physical size do you want the speakers to be, for example tall and narrow with depth or something a little wider and not so deep.
- Do you absolutely need floor-standers.
- What about decor ( color and style), seems silly but can be very important, es[ecially if you have a partner who like things to look right and match other furnishings.
Speaker design parameters
- Will these speakers be used for home theater only?
- If they are used for music what frequency response do you want ( see notes)
- What type of music do you listen.
- Can the speakers be set against the wall?
- Is there enough room /distance from wall to allow for a rear ported enclosure.
- What series of drivers have you in mind ( if any at this point )
- Will you be using ply or mdf for construction
- Do you have a preference for crossover componentry
- Have you constructed crossovers previously
Notes:
For good music reproduction I would recommend a three way design that is full frequency response ie: 20Hz to 20000kHz. I am not a fan of using subs for music reproduction and it alters the perspective of the sound track too much for my taste. You may feel differently and only you can decide what sounds best for you.
For the room size that you have mentioned I would think an enclose in the 30 to 50 liter range would certainly do the job. Smaller if you have space issues, although too small and you will start to smother the 8 inch woofer.
If this is your first 3-way build I would keep it simple and aim for a good frequency response and relatively standard enclosure design. Spend some time here and on other sites a look at designs that others have done and you will likely get a pretty good idea of what you want to build.
For me personally, I loathe subs. Sure I know why makers make them, and how audio sound works for H.T. but I don't use a sub and I'm actually better off for it. Most bass sound between 20 to 40 Hz is heard more as a rumble than as a definable sound, this is true of a lot of music recorded today.
However if I listen to certain music tracks, there are clear and discernible notes in music in this low region and I like this to be produced by my main speakers and not a sub. Subs are made to handle the thump and bump sounds of H.T soundtracks , but if you build large full spectrum speakers I find the bass response is better than most 5.1 systems I've heard. Having said that . if money is no object I have also heaard HT systems in the over $100,00.00 range that will knock your socks off
To that end I slightly reworked one of Troels designs to suit my taste and needs. You can see the build thread for these in my signature at the bottom of the post. Once these were run in we tested in room under normal working conditions for frequency response. Several test runs were made using a variety of sound tracks and test cd's. Frequency response was recorded from 17Hz to 21000 kHz. A little lower now at 20000kHz at the top as I have just swapped out a set of titanium tweeters for some nice silk domes.
Sorry for the big read but theres a lot to consider before you spend your hard earned money. I wish you luck in your endeavors.
Very thanks for your reply. I would explain better.
General considerations
- I have no much experience, but I built my own pair of subwoofers and a mini 5" bookshelf with relative ease*.
- I have a friend that work mdf very well and have a good tools, I have any experience with soldiers and electrical components.
- I have some experience with Bass Box Pro, Lspcad and winisd.
- I want floor standing speakers, for example (in metrical units) 1 meter height, and 25 centimeters with and depth approx.
- No, I don't need floor-standers but my room is large enough to accommodate this.
- It's not important, I have design freedom.
Speaker design parameters
- The use will be 80% home theater 20% music
- My music preferences are Classic Rock (Credence Clearwater Revival, Eric Clapton...) heavy, Jazz, Spanish Rock....
- Can, but I have freedom to set them anywhere.
- I have around 50cm - 75cm to the wall.
- still I do not know.
- I will use 25milimeters mdf.
- No, I haven't.
- Yes, I build another crossover yet*.
* Here is some photos of my DIY speakers:
Read more attentively your post I asked me if is better to clone a good 2 way o3 2.5 way than a bad 3 way that I engineering, for example:
zaph|audio - zrt - revelator tower
CA18RNX
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