6.5" woofer blown in 2.5 way pair of Musical Technology Falcons.
Driver measures 10.5 ohms disconnected on multimeter so guess need 16 ohm replacement?
Any suggestions, advice on alternatives appreciated. T/S parameters unknown.
Can't see reconing as feasible but keen to keep cabinets at least as heavily modded.
Driver measures 10.5 ohms disconnected on multimeter so guess need 16 ohm replacement?
Any suggestions, advice on alternatives appreciated. T/S parameters unknown.
Can't see reconing as feasible but keen to keep cabinets at least as heavily modded.
Don't know anything about these except what I see is you need a truncated framed driver of exact or smaller dims or else you'll have to route the cabinet.
Musical Technology FALCON High-End 2.5 Way Tower Speaker for Sale in Boca Raton, FL - OfferUp
Also, just swapping in a replacement driver; it will have a different response, impedance, timbre, level, etc, to the originals, so the way to do it would be to swap all 4, or maybe just junk the speaker.
Not a great thing to do to swap one without measuring equipment, but some truncated drivers I know of are Peerless HDS and Audax.
Musical Technology FALCON High-End 2.5 Way Tower Speaker for Sale in Boca Raton, FL - OfferUp
Also, just swapping in a replacement driver; it will have a different response, impedance, timbre, level, etc, to the originals, so the way to do it would be to swap all 4, or maybe just junk the speaker.
Not a great thing to do to swap one without measuring equipment, but some truncated drivers I know of are Peerless HDS and Audax.
Picture is the very same.
Happy to mod cabinets to take any size of replacement drivers but multimeter measurement of dcr at 10.5 ohms confuses me. Assuming actual ac impedance is higher, I can't find any likely substitutes. Considered ripping out all the drivers and starting from sctratch but seems like lot of hassle.
Only have experience of FR designs and worried that 4th order crossover may be hard to please.
Happy to mod cabinets to take any size of replacement drivers but multimeter measurement of dcr at 10.5 ohms confuses me. Assuming actual ac impedance is higher, I can't find any likely substitutes. Considered ripping out all the drivers and starting from sctratch but seems like lot of hassle.
Only have experience of FR designs and worried that 4th order crossover may be hard to please.
Whenever I see a bass unit shaped like that, I think Peerless 830874 or 830875.
A very respectable pair of woofers. The 874 has a shiny plastic cone, the 875 is paper but with an inverted plastic dustcap.
Peerless 830874 HDS 164 PPB MidWoofer Speaker
These are 6 ohms DC drivers. So your 10.5 ohms might suggest some manufacturing variation. But broken drivers might throw up odd results on resistance.
I wouldn't think it is hard to adjust a crossover for this variation.
Joachim Gerhard has built more expensive variations. We could also mention that Peerless India produce drivers of this shape.
A very respectable pair of woofers. The 874 has a shiny plastic cone, the 875 is paper but with an inverted plastic dustcap.
Peerless 830874 HDS 164 PPB MidWoofer Speaker
These are 6 ohms DC drivers. So your 10.5 ohms might suggest some manufacturing variation. But broken drivers might throw up odd results on resistance.
I wouldn't think it is hard to adjust a crossover for this variation.
Joachim Gerhard has built more expensive variations. We could also mention that Peerless India produce drivers of this shape.
Attachments
Driver suggestions for replacement
Thanks for suggestions I measured all the working drivers (disconnected) with multimeter and they were all 10 ohms.
The peerless drivers look ideal just unsure if the lower impedance would be workable.
Thanks for suggestions I measured all the working drivers (disconnected) with multimeter and they were all 10 ohms.
The peerless drivers look ideal just unsure if the lower impedance would be workable.
The rule of thumb is to add on one third of the DC resistance to get the nominal impedance.
So, 10.5 + 3.5 = 14 ohm, which would be a rather unusual value for a driver.
A 16 ohm replacement would be closer that an 8 ohm replacement, or so it would seem.
So, 10.5 + 3.5 = 14 ohm, which would be a rather unusual value for a driver.
A 16 ohm replacement would be closer that an 8 ohm replacement, or so it would seem.
There are a few 16 ohm midbasses around:
M-165/16 woofer
These are Peerless (India) units at heart.
If your speaker is a 2.5 Way, I doubt if the lower bass is very critical. It's probably just connected to a large coil. You could probably add a large 4 ohm resistor to lower the sensitivity of a 8 ohm woofer. If it's a MTM, things get more difficult with a less than ideal 8 ohm replacement.
PEERLESS-NOMEX-164
M-165/16 woofer
These are Peerless (India) units at heart.
If your speaker is a 2.5 Way, I doubt if the lower bass is very critical. It's probably just connected to a large coil. You could probably add a large 4 ohm resistor to lower the sensitivity of a 8 ohm woofer. If it's a MTM, things get more difficult with a less than ideal 8 ohm replacement.
PEERLESS-NOMEX-164
Get us a picture of the crossover, with wires marked.
Don't get too worked up over changing or replacing a crossover, it's not eye surgery.
Don't get too worked up over changing or replacing a crossover, it's not eye surgery.
