Hey guys, could you review my system technical specification for DJ?
Includes:
(X1) Powered Subwoofer of 18 Inches, 134 dB Peak, 30Hz-102Hz at +/-10 dB (or 35Hz-87Hz at +/-3dB)
(X2) Two Way Cabinets, 10 inch woofer and 1.4 inch tweeter, crossover in 2.5kHz. Each plays 129dB peak, 55Hz-20kHz at +/-10dB.
Why I got a 18 sub:
I wanted to buy two subwoofers to play in stereo subwoofers but I had the money to buy only one. I bought a good one though, JBL PRX 818XLF.
Why I got a pair of 10 inches speaker:
Someone recommended me to buy 12 inches speakers to play with the 18 inch subwoofer, but I was afraid of lose the mid clarity due to the large cone of the 12 inch speaker have difficulty to play those mids frequencies.
The smaller cone, more mids, less bass.
Guys, I got a little problem.
I was connecting these 1p inch speakers from the subwoofer built in HiPass 80Hz outputs, which is the recommended Crossover for this subwoofer. But unfortunately, my 10 inch speakers has a recommended LowPass of 120Hertz Built In also.
I dont know which one I should use!
Should I play with subwoofer HiPass 80Hertz crossover or play with my speakers LowPass 120Hertz cross over?
I've tested both and I don't know which one is better.
If I could apply a 100Hz cross Over would be a intermediate between 80Hz and 120Hz but I dont have this choice due to limitations of my equipment resources.
Thank you so much!
Includes:
(X1) Powered Subwoofer of 18 Inches, 134 dB Peak, 30Hz-102Hz at +/-10 dB (or 35Hz-87Hz at +/-3dB)
(X2) Two Way Cabinets, 10 inch woofer and 1.4 inch tweeter, crossover in 2.5kHz. Each plays 129dB peak, 55Hz-20kHz at +/-10dB.
Why I got a 18 sub:
I wanted to buy two subwoofers to play in stereo subwoofers but I had the money to buy only one. I bought a good one though, JBL PRX 818XLF.
Why I got a pair of 10 inches speaker:
Someone recommended me to buy 12 inches speakers to play with the 18 inch subwoofer, but I was afraid of lose the mid clarity due to the large cone of the 12 inch speaker have difficulty to play those mids frequencies.
The smaller cone, more mids, less bass.
Guys, I got a little problem.
I was connecting these 1p inch speakers from the subwoofer built in HiPass 80Hz outputs, which is the recommended Crossover for this subwoofer. But unfortunately, my 10 inch speakers has a recommended LowPass of 120Hertz Built In also.
I dont know which one I should use!
Should I play with subwoofer HiPass 80Hertz crossover or play with my speakers LowPass 120Hertz cross over?
I've tested both and I don't know which one is better.
If I could apply a 100Hz cross Over would be a intermediate between 80Hz and 120Hz but I dont have this choice due to limitations of my equipment resources.
Thank you so much!
Should have bought the 12s. Then you'd have the option of using them for smaller gigs without a sub. Mid clarity is fine on the 12s.
I'd use 120hz. Won't matter compared to 80hz until you turn it up, then the 10s will run out of puff
PA is not like home stuff.
I'd use 120hz. Won't matter compared to 80hz until you turn it up, then the 10s will run out of puff
PA is not like home stuff.
Yeah in the future I buy the 12 inches to taste it, I just had in my mind that the bigger the speaker is, worse mids reproduction I believe voices sound better in the 10 inch speaker than bigger sspeakers
Hey guys, one more question, this subwoofer only starts to sound good at three o clock gain volumes is it normal? I like to listen to him while I make barbecue and it needs to be a lot of loud to sound cool.
Do you think it is a characteristic of 18 inch subwoofer? For home do you think a 15 inch subwoofer would start to sound better in lower gain volumes?
Hey guys, one more question, this subwoofer only starts to sound good at three o clock gain volumes is it normal? I like to listen to him while I make barbecue and it needs to be a lot of loud to sound cool.
Do you think it is a characteristic of 18 inch subwoofer? For home do you think a 15 inch subwoofer would start to sound better in lower gain volumes?
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In a HIFI/HT apps, size has nothing to do with how it sounds at lower gain volumes; high efficiency based on [low] Fs, [high] Vas, [low-medium] Qts specs, so typically means a relatively huge cab for the driver size.
If I'm not wrong, the deep bass requires loud gain to be noticed because of low human sensitiveness for bass frequencies
No. This isn't music production, it's reproduction. You can give a little bass boost if you want but the reproduction chain defaults to flat.
I'm in trial and error.
Sometimes I try loud gains and notice the bass difference. But sometimes the bass is too loud muffling the sound clarity.
I think when we are in moderate volumes the bass is heared but not felt
Sometimes I try loud gains and notice the bass difference. But sometimes the bass is too loud muffling the sound clarity.
I think when we are in moderate volumes the bass is heared but not felt
Just guessing here, if you feel the need to turn it up as far as that then maybe something else is missing, eg. midrange integration or smoothness.
Right, our hearing starts to rapidly roll off below ~250 Hz to ~ - 40 dB/20 Hz and becomes most accurate around 1 kHz in the mid-range between ~ 250 Hz up to our peak articulation point at ~ 2 kHz, so any low end boost has to decay away by ~ 400-500 Hz otherwise it will 'muddy up' our critical mids, i.e. human voice, the 'meat' of most instruments since fully half of a large symphony's sound power is below 500 Hz.
What's ideally needed is an automatic EQ curve that tracks the mids to maintain the same tonal balance regardless of loudness setting.
Regardless, as Allen touched on; in speaker design, getting the ~250-2500 Hz 'telephone' BW tweaked to highest intelligibility, then flat out to ~ 10 kHz where sibilance, 'definition' sets how 'crisp'/'sharp' vocals, instruments sound is the goal, so any XOs in this BW must be spot on and why some of us prefer a single driver or at least a multiple driver single point source to do it all.
Do you think the same series of speaker of a brand have the same DSP automatic curve to adjust mids/bass?
If do yes, we shouldnt mixture two different brands or series?
Just like I am with a Yamaha and JBL. Is that bad?
I have a Sub JBL PRX818 and Yamaha StagePas600i pair of speakers.
The sub is 134dB and speakers 129dB each. But I dont like how they sound.
If I sell the Yamaha and buy two JBL PRX 812 speakers (135dB) I will have more spl in mids and will need a second subwoofer I don't have money to buy another sub.
Should I buy 2 PRX 812 (135dB) or two JBL Eon 612 (126dB)? I prefer to buy the second option due to they are cheaper. But, do u think if I have everything in PRX will have a better quality audio? (Not quantity, quality)
If do yes, we shouldnt mixture two different brands or series?
Just like I am with a Yamaha and JBL. Is that bad?
I have a Sub JBL PRX818 and Yamaha StagePas600i pair of speakers.
The sub is 134dB and speakers 129dB each. But I dont like how they sound.
If I sell the Yamaha and buy two JBL PRX 812 speakers (135dB) I will have more spl in mids and will need a second subwoofer I don't have money to buy another sub.
Should I buy 2 PRX 812 (135dB) or two JBL Eon 612 (126dB)? I prefer to buy the second option due to they are cheaper. But, do u think if I have everything in PRX will have a better quality audio? (Not quantity, quality)
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No clue, haven't kept up with electronics for several decades now, only searching the net occasionally for any forum threads/whatever to get an answer.
Mixing brands isn't necessarally a terrible thing to do but it's not ideal, there will be a better match with the DSP processing and crossovers when all speakers are from the same brand and line.
What don't you like about the sound?
No... you would have speakers capable of more SPL.
DO NOT but EON speakers... they are junk. If you are buying get the matching PRX speakers.
Conanski already beat me to the punch 😉
1) JBL's PRX 812 "normal" response curve has a +3 bass boost from 60-300Hz, Ok for when you don't feel like lugging a sub, the "monitor" curve is probably what you'd prefer with a sub. JBL's "voicing" is fairly consistent with their self powered stuff, as are most.
2) As a beginner, you will have less problems using pre-baked goods from one manufacturer.
3) The Yamaha StagePas600i does not appear to be very good, if you don't like the way they sound they probably are "bad" 😉
4) You don't have to turn up the top cabinets any louder than you want to hear them, and some headroom is a good thing to have, especially when you don't feel like lugging a sub (or two, or four..) around.
5) The JBL Eon 612 will get you an entry-level "class leading" Orange JBL badge, but won't sound much better than the StagePas600i speakers, especially if you attempt to make them play at anything near their rated level.
Listen before you buy, and bring your present speakers/mixer along to compare.
Art
Guys, I am so happy to read the messages above, I feel comprehended and informed. Thank you for every reply, really, I am so happy.
Yamaha speakers are tested and quality approved.
Maybe this Stagepas600i is not the best product of them.
I have just tested today Stagepas600i Speakers with this tripod adapter:
K&M "Speaker tilt connector: Ring Lock" tiltdown speaker 15°
19674 Speaker tilt connector >>Ring Lock<< | Konig & Meyer
Result: the clarity of audio was boosted. The problems of slapback and intelligibility were corrected in my venue.
But, I agree that the PRX are a better match, I just announced in market my speaker, anyways. It is still in good condition
Yeah, though
Yamaha speakers are tested and quality approved.
Maybe this Stagepas600i is not the best product of them.
I have just tested today Stagepas600i Speakers with this tripod adapter:
K&M "Speaker tilt connector: Ring Lock" tiltdown speaker 15°
19674 Speaker tilt connector >>Ring Lock<< | Konig & Meyer
Result: the clarity of audio was boosted. The problems of slapback and intelligibility were corrected in my venue.
But, I agree that the PRX are a better match, I just announced in market my speaker, anyways. It is still in good condition
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