Can you really get 20 farads for $100?/

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#21
Clipped said:


have you tried a grounding kit or making your own?

i made one for my nissan and the improvement was like night and day man.

i went:

1. alt bracket - engine - transmission
2. engine - right shock tower
3. transmission - left shock tower
4. left shock tower - right shock tower.
5. batt neg - closest shock tower
6. additional alt pos - batt positive

two-2150sx and one 225 hcca....the stock electrical would support this system when driving on a 65 ah battery 2 years old, 11 plates per cell...hiphop music...bassmechanic..would kill it faster.

i peg the volume like maniac for about 15 minutes at a time, then roll it back down to half volume the rest of the time.


ps......

oh yeah i almost forgot...i use to have a PPI A600 that had a problem, try this... drive down the road with the system on but no volume.

then unplug the PPIA600 and drive again and see if there is a difference do to alternator lag.

i had the A600 in a mitsubishi lancer and it would draw excess current because it was faulty.
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I can turn off the bass amp independently and just run the two a600.2's and it won't happen until I really blast them because they're running four ohms per channel. If I then turn the earthquake on, the dimming happens way sooner. It didn't bug me much before I threw the 10" in and started using the bass amp. I'm tempted to grab a cap for the heck of it, then upgrade the alternator. I remember my friend buying a batcap 35farad for his 05 corolla. He was running a pioneer premier 720 amp (very powerful) on two 12" and another smaller premier two channel on his highs. He installed the cap at the bass amp and it actually helped. The dimming didn't totally go away but you had to push the system really hard to get it to happen. Funny thing is he paid almost $200 for that cap used. Now those high farad caps are becoming more mainstream and cost so much less. I could get a 50 farad for less than he paid.
I totally understand how caps work, and that the alternator can only handle so much before the battery starts becoming depleted. I was just curious as to whether the caps really were as many farads as they claimed. Funny thing is, after all of this banter no one has answered my original question. Wow, super lol
 
#22
in another system i had two 250hcca's and one PPIA600, that was in the lancer.

and it didnt really have trouble keeping up while the car was rolling 45mph+

this system played bassmekanic constantly and would shut down from heat before the car stalled do to lack of current...maybe you want to check the amps out?

i think a cap would help, alot of people take what they read on termpro too seriously and dont realize the bad side effects a cap has on 'burping' compared to realmusic....caps work for real music.

i say go for it...your system isnt too big where it would overpower a 20 farad cap..imo

and do the grounding kit too.😉
 
#24
1moreamp said:
I use a cut down GM 18 wheeler alternator. All that needed to be done was a rewire of the internal coils for 12 volt instead of 24 volt operation. And one new long bolt with a slightly elongated hole in the frame so it will mount on any GM product.
Oh and minimum of 2 gauge cables between the battery and the alternator, and a similar ground wire setup also. Bigger is recommended by most alternator makers.
It gives 100 amps at idle with a mild over drive pulley and it gives 250 amps HOT rated 15.0 volts constantly without issue at speeds above 1200 RPM.

Lifespan is over four years without issue. But it does depend on the source of the rework. All internal parts are standard off the shelf items so there are not too many things to go wrong. All the IRA control electronics are a single standard voltage regulator, so any local parts supplier can give me what I need to rebuild my own when need be. This includes bearing, and commutator brush's.

There really isn't much else to worry about unless you put it on a high revving engine. The higher bearing speed at idle does load the bearings faster to failure by about 11%, so a high revving four banger will cause excessive drive rotation speed to the shaft and this could be an issue on rice rockets. I run a suburban tank, so I rarely ever see anything above 3000 RPM's.

I also have a spare backup replacement so if and when its time I just drop the spare in and drive on. This gives ample time to make any needed repairs to the down unit without interruption of my normal routines.

You can buy over drive pulley's on flea-bay if you can't find a local source. For about $20.00 this will solve most idle drop out issues your stock alternator will have built into them by design. But it does spin the shaft faster to do this, and that means shorter bearing life sometimes. But the pulley can be moved from alternator to alternator with a little effort, and some mild heat to free it up and get it off the shaft.

Watch out for the little local shops making big promises. I have found most of these places to be way less then knowledgeable about what they are doing. lol just look for the big promises, your instinct will do the rest...🙂


Oh by the way, have you ever torn open a Kinetics battery and looked inside. They are not a typical battery, they are high energy storage cells like the Ultra cap, ( I believe they are classed and very fast battery's by definition) and there are a bunch of them connected together inside those big blue battery cases just like Ultra caps. I have nothing against Kinetics, but I just don't trust marketing hype from any company that sells to the car audio industry. Just too much BS out there
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Those CS144, 21 and 22si series alternators where pretty good and can be Highly modified. I favor external rectifiers and external regulators just because external regulators often have quicker switching speeds and external rectifiers can dissipate way more heat.
Oh and 1More.... You could have used the front housing and rotor from a CS144 ( mostly used on cadilacs ) and the back half off of that 21 or 22 si series you have. That way you could directly swap it with the original if you broke down. The 21,22 and 144 series all share common parts.
 
#25
I did some voltage checking today with the car idling. Even with the system almost at audible distortion the voltage never went below 13.5! :bigeyes: My meter is digital but has an analog scale that was very solid. The parking lamps and dash were flickering some but the voltage was actually pretty stable. I also toasted my ten pretty quickly when turning the bass amp setting up to try and amplify the dimming. I think one of those high farad caps might minimize the flickering, especially since the voltage drop is so minimal. I don't have a straight analog meter but the analog function on mine usually works very well when testing ac so I would think the dc function would be fairly accurate.
 
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