I have a set of infinity door speakers that are hooked up to a rockford fosgate P400-2 amp that is stable to 2 ohms.
I was told by a guy at JL Audio that I could run a pair of 8 ohm tweeters parrellel with the front speakers without having to run a separate amp.
He said to just make sure I have a crossover that can stop anything below 2000hz, which makes sense. I was looking at the JBL GTO18T 2 ohm tweeters and the infinity 1031 4 ohm tweeters.
Any, please chime in!!!!!
I was told by a guy at JL Audio that I could run a pair of 8 ohm tweeters parrellel with the front speakers without having to run a separate amp.
He said to just make sure I have a crossover that can stop anything below 2000hz, which makes sense. I was looking at the JBL GTO18T 2 ohm tweeters and the infinity 1031 4 ohm tweeters.
Any, please chime in!!!!!
You can connect them in parallel. Unless you know that the tweeters can handle the power, I'd suggest a higher crossover point. 5-8kHz is good if all you need is the upper range from the tweeters. The crossovers will have to be selected for the tweeters that you use. At the very least, the impedance of the speakers has to match the crossover's design impedance. If the manufacturer includes a more sophisticated crossover (compensation networks, etc...), use the one the manufacturer supplies.
i noticed, comparing the 2 brands in coaxial 6.5's, that the jbl were well built, and the infinity's were a tad bright for my taste, but still decently manageable with a good sub fill. when you cross mids and tweeters, they don't really count as paralleled speakers, since they are only playing in their own respective frequency range.
Very well stated AK, Thank you.
Let me add a little twist. The Infinity speakers are 2 ohm each, and the JBL speakers ate 4 ohm.
I was also looking at the JL Audio 050 speakers also but they are 8 ohms each.
I am going to tie them into the front door speakers which are Infinity Reference 6032 4 ohm speakers.
They all come with in line bass blockers but I do have a real set of crossovers from a pair of other infinity car speakers.
Give me your opinion please with what I have given.
Thanks again
Regards
Dave
Let me add a little twist. The Infinity speakers are 2 ohm each, and the JBL speakers ate 4 ohm.
I was also looking at the JL Audio 050 speakers also but they are 8 ohms each.
I am going to tie them into the front door speakers which are Infinity Reference 6032 4 ohm speakers.
They all come with in line bass blockers but I do have a real set of crossovers from a pair of other infinity car speakers.
Give me your opinion please with what I have given.
Thanks again
Regards
Dave
well, actually, the 6032's are the ones i pitted against the corresponding jbl speakers. bought them both. if you read both descriptions, they should both be 2ohm speakers that have "true 4ohm topology" and plus one cones, etc. the jbl's had better cross-overs, but the infinities had stronger motors. if you do get true 4ohm coiled jbl's, then they may be even more quiet paralleled with the infinities. as-is, the jbl's had a miniscule amount less output, mostly in the lower frequencies, but i was able to pick up on it doing a hard comparison in identical semi-ib test enclosures. are you saying you want to pair the 18t tweeters to the already brite infinity speakers? what ohm are the crossovers made for? the cross-over point will be different on them when used with 2 ohm, if they are made for 4ohm. personally, i would check them, and not hesitate to use the cross-overs, which will cancel out the coaxial mounted tweeters and run them as strait mids. if the cross-overs end up crossing higher than the coaxials, then the coaxial tweeters will fill that lower side a little. either way, the 2ohm tweeters are matched to the 6032 mids as far as impeedance goes. i think you would actually find the 4ohm jbl tweeters to be a bit quieter.
I've actually added the Polk db 1001 model into the mix. They are 4 ohm tweeters. All of these come with an inline crossover unfortunately none of them states what the crossover point is. I would imagine that the manufacturer's cross them over to their lowest hz ability but, for some reason, they don't disclose what the actual crossover is.
These are tweeters and I really don't want 1000 hz coming out of them. More like 4500 and above. I would think they would blow if any midrange came out of them.
These are tweeters and I really don't want 1000 hz coming out of them. More like 4500 and above. I would think they would blow if any midrange came out of them.
I'm possibly thinking outside of the box here.
If you were to parallel up tweeters onto an existing two or more way speaker you would upset the fine tuning of the existing crossover.
If you are paralleling them up to a full range speaker then you can employ a second crossover uniquely for the new tweeters without upsetting the full range drivers. You might want to high cut the existing drivers.
If you were to parallel up tweeters onto an existing two or more way speaker you would upset the fine tuning of the existing crossover.
If you are paralleling them up to a full range speaker then you can employ a second crossover uniquely for the new tweeters without upsetting the full range drivers. You might want to high cut the existing drivers.
That's a great point. I'm going to tap in the wires for the tweeters before the front speakers so I won't be utilizing the crossovers in the front speakers. I will tap into the wires and add either an inline crossover/blocker or a regular crossover but I won't use the woofer part of it, only the tweeter side.
Does this make sense?? I love the complete sound from the front speakers...they sound great. They are a bit low on the door and by adding these tweeters, I just want to enhance the sound by bringing the additional tweeters closer to my ears
Does this make sense?? I love the complete sound from the front speakers...they sound great. They are a bit low on the door and by adding these tweeters, I just want to enhance the sound by bringing the additional tweeters closer to my ears
well, lets say, that your example is literal. the 2-way mids have an internal piggy-back cross-over at 1khz (4.7uf 50v caps and no mid coil filters, if someone wants to do the math) and then you just add the tweeters (paralleled as you describe) with cross-overs. you could use the blockers, if they suit your cut-off, and not need to bother with the cross-overs. so, how they have it set up, the mid will play everything that it will respond to, which could be upwards of 8k. so, now, what you have done, is set it up so there are 3 drivers playing in the 4500-8k range, where it then plays the 2 different tweeters 8k-20k+ the reason i suggested the cross-overs, is then, you would separate them. so, say you have the 1k+ tweet, already blended with the mid., that should only be playing 1k-4500, and then let the other tweet play 4500+ and the mid take care of the under1k, and blend. what i would do, first, is look at the corresponding infinity components set, and you should be able to see the response of the mid, tweeter, and possibly the cross-over. i would also look at what frequency the 4.7uf cap cuts on a 2ohm, and 4ohm driver. also, another option, if it suits what you want, is to break the sticker and unscrew the tweeter from the infinity, then re-mount it where you want, having to buy no more equipment, if you can get your cross-overs, or a cap to meet your criteria. i can tell you that a coil on the mid of the jbl's made a noticable difference in sq/flat response, vs the infinties. and, as mentioned, they are nearly identical drivers, once you look past the cosmetics. to be totally honest, polk, nowadays, are a great budget brand in my eyes (mobile audio, not home audio) but i am not quite sure i would trust them against that amp.
So in short, i stand behind my origonal suggestion of throwing the infinities on the mid/sub section of the cross-over, and the new tweeters on the high out. however, you should do a lot more research of your own, and may like one of the other options i/we suggested better. i know all, or at least most of the info is right out there in a google search, as i have seen it. then you can formulate your own plan of attack with desired results.
regaurds-
-Heath H-
So in short, i stand behind my origonal suggestion of throwing the infinities on the mid/sub section of the cross-over, and the new tweeters on the high out. however, you should do a lot more research of your own, and may like one of the other options i/we suggested better. i know all, or at least most of the info is right out there in a google search, as i have seen it. then you can formulate your own plan of attack with desired results.
regaurds-
-Heath H-
TBH you'd be better off just buying a decent set of comps, will sound better, be easier to balance and you can bin the co-axes or sell them to a friend etc.
Not sure you read my replies. . The mid section is actually a rean nice mid, and the same one used in their and jbl components (even though the infinity motor is slightly better). The only thing is that the tweeter is a tad brite sounding. The cross-over he already has, and the tweeters are cheap. Rspecially on amazon. I picked up the mids for 50, which was 65 when i put them in the cart the day before. (170 normally) i don't. See the need to blow a couple hundred more on comps....just my honest opinion...
I did read you replies and while I understand what you are suggesting , I just don't happen to agree with it.
Any crossover the OP has lying around will likely be for a pair of 4ohm drivers. He's talking of running either 4ohm or 8ohm tweeters and 2ohm mids.
Say his crossover is 12dB and octave on the mid and tweeter at 2500Hz.
His 2ohm mid would actually then crossover at circa 1250Hz.
Now say he went for the 8ohm tweeters-they'd crossover at circa 5000Hz, leaving him with 3750Hz "hole" (I know there will still be some bleed over as the crossovers are not absolute-but this is a w-i-d-e gap)
Thus IMO he would be better off just buying the correct comps for his car.
Any crossover the OP has lying around will likely be for a pair of 4ohm drivers. He's talking of running either 4ohm or 8ohm tweeters and 2ohm mids.
Say his crossover is 12dB and octave on the mid and tweeter at 2500Hz.
His 2ohm mid would actually then crossover at circa 1250Hz.
Now say he went for the 8ohm tweeters-they'd crossover at circa 5000Hz, leaving him with 3750Hz "hole" (I know there will still be some bleed over as the crossovers are not absolute-but this is a w-i-d-e gap)
Thus IMO he would be better off just buying the correct comps for his car.
Good input all around.
I don't see myself tossing a perfectly good set of Ref 6032 coaxials away. I don't have any problem with the tweeters and I wont mess with them at all. I do like the sound of them.
As for the new tweeters, I will stick with a 4 ohm tweeter (maybe a JL zr100 or one of the 4 ohm tweeters that I have already spoken about) so I keep the values correct.
I was going to use a y connector on the P400-4 and use a pair of channels to power the rear REF5032 Speakers and the other to work the new tweeters, but a guy from JL audio was wondering why I would go to all the trouble of wiring in a new set of speakers from the amp, when I could just piggy back from the front door speakers. I told him that I was NOT going to eliminate nor modify anything that is existing now. He felt that even though the rear speakers are only 5 1/4", that I should bridge them with the P4004 and get a bit more CLEAN power from the amp and just fade away from the rear so I didn't overpower them and blow the speakers!!!!😀
I don't see myself tossing a perfectly good set of Ref 6032 coaxials away. I don't have any problem with the tweeters and I wont mess with them at all. I do like the sound of them.
As for the new tweeters, I will stick with a 4 ohm tweeter (maybe a JL zr100 or one of the 4 ohm tweeters that I have already spoken about) so I keep the values correct.
I was going to use a y connector on the P400-4 and use a pair of channels to power the rear REF5032 Speakers and the other to work the new tweeters, but a guy from JL audio was wondering why I would go to all the trouble of wiring in a new set of speakers from the amp, when I could just piggy back from the front door speakers. I told him that I was NOT going to eliminate nor modify anything that is existing now. He felt that even though the rear speakers are only 5 1/4", that I should bridge them with the P4004 and get a bit more CLEAN power from the amp and just fade away from the rear so I didn't overpower them and blow the speakers!!!!😀
You'd be better off using the spare channels on your amp to drive the new tweeters and that way you can use the amp gain to match their level better with your existing front speakers.
Running mono or stereo rear speakers is a waste of time unless you have a processor IMO, you're just adding more sound sources/reflections/peaks/nulls into the mix. Even then most of the experienced SQ guys I know of who've tried adding rear fill wil L-R or processors have said that it only works on a few tracks, the rest sound worse than stereo + sub.
Also the amp won't produce any more power into your speakers bridged or running stereo, running 2ohm in stereo is the same as running 4ohm bridged:
Rated Power
(RMS Continuous Power):
50 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm
100 Watts x 4 @ 2-Ohm
200 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm Bridged
I'm surprised a JL employee would make a schoolboy error like that-is this JL tech support/customer services giving you this or someone trying to sell you JL tweeters?
Running mono or stereo rear speakers is a waste of time unless you have a processor IMO, you're just adding more sound sources/reflections/peaks/nulls into the mix. Even then most of the experienced SQ guys I know of who've tried adding rear fill wil L-R or processors have said that it only works on a few tracks, the rest sound worse than stereo + sub.
Also the amp won't produce any more power into your speakers bridged or running stereo, running 2ohm in stereo is the same as running 4ohm bridged:
Rated Power
(RMS Continuous Power):
50 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohm
100 Watts x 4 @ 2-Ohm
200 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm Bridged
I'm surprised a JL employee would make a schoolboy error like that-is this JL tech support/customer services giving you this or someone trying to sell you JL tweeters?
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not to just go out and rag on a guy, but if you are acurately relaying what he said, then think about it. he said to piggy-back the rear speakers off the front. that makes the 2 speakers on one side a mono channel. then, he told you to fade to the front............ on a mono channel......
not to sound repetitive, but jbl/infinity has rated their drivers at a "4ohm topology" i am not sure how they rate/consider/do that on a 2.x ohm driver, but i can just speculate it is a mean imp. rise that keeps it operating at 4ohms or higher. conciquently, that is why i suggest repeatedly that you use their tweeters when on the same channel. if you "go active" and use a separate chennel, or even amp for the new tweeters, then you can use whatever tweeters you choose. another option, would be to run tweeters off the cross-overs, powered by the head unit, and you may have the option to cross the mids at a lpf to blend, either through the head or amp. and, once again, you have the option of pulling the tweeters off the mids and re-mounting them elsewhere....
not to sound repetitive, but jbl/infinity has rated their drivers at a "4ohm topology" i am not sure how they rate/consider/do that on a 2.x ohm driver, but i can just speculate it is a mean imp. rise that keeps it operating at 4ohms or higher. conciquently, that is why i suggest repeatedly that you use their tweeters when on the same channel. if you "go active" and use a separate chennel, or even amp for the new tweeters, then you can use whatever tweeters you choose. another option, would be to run tweeters off the cross-overs, powered by the head unit, and you may have the option to cross the mids at a lpf to blend, either through the head or amp. and, once again, you have the option of pulling the tweeters off the mids and re-mounting them elsewhere....
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