No shielded speakers but yeah I would be nice to know if those inverted magnets can impact the performance for the good or for the bad aside from shielding
Practically this is the conclusion for subwoofers.
- Better to use wood bracing (more practical and just does the job)
- If magnetic metal is used, better to not put the magnet too close.
Ehm!!! The heaviest part of a speaker is the magnetic circuit (plates and polepiece) and it´s made out of .... steel!
And yes,many speakers also have stamped steel frames.
Not a small detail by any means ... and you waited for post #19 to mention it?
As a side note,I guess your "small" box" statement is misleading too.
Care to share size and details , such as passive radiators in it ?
And any other important detail you forgot to disclose?
No, I meant enclosures entirely made out of metal or plastic.
Their material can be 2-3 mm thin.
However composites with wood exist.
Or: Mr Reckhorn (Germany) sold subwoofers in cylindrical shape made out of stiff paper 5mm thin. It's stability comes from the shape.
Their material can be 2-3 mm thin.
However composites with wood exist.
Or: Mr Reckhorn (Germany) sold subwoofers in cylindrical shape made out of stiff paper 5mm thin. It's stability comes from the shape.
Smaller subs means smaller spans of board that are not as prone to resonances comparatively. But bracing is almost always important.
I have a small non braced sealed box with 1 inch baffle. I experienced with bracing outer sides of the two largest panels with strong maple 1x2". I couldn't make out a discernable difference.
If metal interfered what would they make speakers with.
I experimented with using threaded steel bar braces with poly tread locking bolts. It eats up far less cab space and has far more strength.
A 3/4 round bar holds panels rock solid. If in doubt go up to a full one inch. Or change out steel for stainless steel thread bar and go a size or two smaller if space becomes very critical.
Only trouble with using those is the anchor bolts on the outer panels can be unsightly.
I came up with a way to anchor them on the inside. Yet be possible to spin a nut on one end to put a bit of pre load on the two panels its supporting and lock the panels up tight.
I have a small non braced sealed box with 1 inch baffle. I experienced with bracing outer sides of the two largest panels with strong maple 1x2". I couldn't make out a discernable difference.
If metal interfered what would they make speakers with.
I experimented with using threaded steel bar braces with poly tread locking bolts. It eats up far less cab space and has far more strength.
A 3/4 round bar holds panels rock solid. If in doubt go up to a full one inch. Or change out steel for stainless steel thread bar and go a size or two smaller if space becomes very critical.
Only trouble with using those is the anchor bolts on the outer panels can be unsightly.
I came up with a way to anchor them on the inside. Yet be possible to spin a nut on one end to put a bit of pre load on the two panels its supporting and lock the panels up tight.
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Yes as everything does ^. The thread bar so minimally its not even worth wasting dynamat on. Unless multiple bars are installed. If in doubt loosely spin some masking tape around them if nothing else is near by.
In that case you're absolutely right. Apart from the screws, bolts, rivets, ball corners, t-nuts/ threaded inserts, handle bars, fly bars, connection dishes, catch plates, plate amplifiers, speaker flanges, top hat's and speaker grills, steel is not used in speaker enclosures at all.
Don't know if it was mentioned here yet, but I have noticed often times some manufacturers of "cheap" subs and speakers will often use some of the cabinet panel resonance modes to reinforce the output of the system, which can make it sound like it has more output. I've seen this in poorly braced FLH and BLH designs as well.
Re reinforcing from outside.
Yes I did it where it made more sense for a recent aluminum subwoofer. For two reasons. Boundaries were already tight. And second the braces pull double duty. They made perfect footer mounts. Pictures are easier.. I will get an image up in a day or two to best explain.
Yes I did it where it made more sense for a recent aluminum subwoofer. For two reasons. Boundaries were already tight. And second the braces pull double duty. They made perfect footer mounts. Pictures are easier.. I will get an image up in a day or two to best explain.
As the bracing goes around the cabinet, there is already a large air gap (several inches) that would reduce the flux through the bracing to a value that is too small to affect sensitivity.