While trying to un- hot glue a component, I consulted the Google. "Try rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). It works great." So I did. Worthless*. Takeaway: don't believe everything you read on the internet 
Maybe xrk971 will offer an opinion. Until then, I will use the pull with fingers, pliers, or dull knife method.
*Perhaps one is supposed to ignite it first?
In the meantime, I suggest that you only use alcohol for
Maybe xrk971 will offer an opinion. Until then, I will use the pull with fingers, pliers, or dull knife method.
*Perhaps one is supposed to ignite it first?
In the meantime, I suggest that you only use alcohol for
It depends. What is the surface from which you are removing it? That will help determine the best way. Sometimes hot, sometimes cold, sometimes chemical.
New here, but figured i could help...
Just had this issue with a LEGO project. Basically, the best thing i found was to use isopropyl alcohol (90+% works better), and soak the glue with a cotton ball/QTip... it will soften a lot, and you can use a plastic scraper, flathead screwdriver, etc to remove the glue usually...
if that doesn't do it, denatured alcohol is stronger, and potentially can dissolve the glue entirely
Just had this issue with a LEGO project. Basically, the best thing i found was to use isopropyl alcohol (90+% works better), and soak the glue with a cotton ball/QTip... it will soften a lot, and you can use a plastic scraper, flathead screwdriver, etc to remove the glue usually...
if that doesn't do it, denatured alcohol is stronger, and potentially can dissolve the glue entirely
Thanks! For the record, I was using 91% Isopropyl. Applied with cotton swab, allowed to soak up to several minutes. I could not tell a difference with several trials.
I believe the other suggestions would work. Hoever, I am working with a BMS 8CN552 driver (~$350) so I would rather not damage it. So far so good, with the finger pull and table knife method
The current removal goal is the front metal flange (?) of the speaker, where I did/will glue it to the rear of a waveguide. The surface is metal but it is close to easily damaged surrounds that should not be attacked with small flame thrower, harsh solvents, or inept x-acto knife
One of the great things about hot melt glue is the balance between semi-permanence (e.g. my excuse to make half-assed "prototypes" and keep them indefinitely) and relative ease of tear down and re-use (currently I am on the "speaker of the month" plan.)
I believe the other suggestions would work. Hoever, I am working with a BMS 8CN552 driver (~$350) so I would rather not damage it. So far so good, with the finger pull and table knife method
The current removal goal is the front metal flange (?) of the speaker, where I did/will glue it to the rear of a waveguide. The surface is metal but it is close to easily damaged surrounds that should not be attacked with small flame thrower, harsh solvents, or inept x-acto knife
One of the great things about hot melt glue is the balance between semi-permanence (e.g. my excuse to make half-assed "prototypes" and keep them indefinitely) and relative ease of tear down and re-use (currently I am on the "speaker of the month" plan.)
Sorry for the partially inept reply... Couldn't figure out how to edit...
If you were using 91%,
it would either soften up/ start to dissolve the glue right away, or it won't do a thing.. Sounds like you may just have a different type of hot melt glue... There are several apparently....
Only other thing I've tried with success if to use a pencil type soldering iron, or to hear a small flat head screwdriver blade with a torch or lighter... Same technique of chipping away at it... Heating the blade has the advantage of dissipating the heat quickly without too much progress or damage each time... Soldering iron is powered and doesn't cool off, so beware...
Oh, and thanks for not beating me up for the previous response! Many other forums out there aren't so nice!
If you were using 91%,
it would either soften up/ start to dissolve the glue right away, or it won't do a thing.. Sounds like you may just have a different type of hot melt glue... There are several apparently....
Only other thing I've tried with success if to use a pencil type soldering iron, or to hear a small flat head screwdriver blade with a torch or lighter... Same technique of chipping away at it... Heating the blade has the advantage of dissipating the heat quickly without too much progress or damage each time... Soldering iron is powered and doesn't cool off, so beware...
Oh, and thanks for not beating me up for the previous response! Many other forums out there aren't so nice!
While trying to un- hot glue a component, I consulted the Google. "Try rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). It works great." So I did. Worthless*. Takeaway: don't believe everything you read on the internet
I have found that paint thinner works fairly well.
If there is a large amount, it works best to heat the glue with a hot air gun to soften it, then wipe it away with a rag and then wipe with paint thinner.
The smell of the paint thinner goes away after a short while and it can be washed off with detergent and water.
Hot air gun on low setting and a set of these from amazon
Amazon.com: SE DD312 12-Piece Stainless Steel Double-Sided Wax Carvers Set: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: SE DD312 12-Piece Stainless Steel Double-Sided Wax Carvers Set: Home Improvement
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