Hi everyone,
I love coming back to this website because of the value of the information given here. People are usually super knowldgeable about this stuff, and that's probably why i've been a member for many, many years. So, here's the questioneroni. Why is it, that NONE of the datasheeets for electrolytic can caps have the SPACING between the screw holes listed? I mean, the distance changes, it's NOT constant, so it's kinda important, wouldn't cha say?
I could go measure the spacing, but practically speaking, if you're designing something in that you don'T have, well, that's what tech drawings are for, right? I'm talking older datasheets, like Sprague stuff from the 60's. Anyway, of you kno why, or if there's a general consensus or standard on this, I'd like to know.
Thank you all
pfeww. I managed to make it through that without adding too much "colour".
I love coming back to this website because of the value of the information given here. People are usually super knowldgeable about this stuff, and that's probably why i've been a member for many, many years. So, here's the questioneroni. Why is it, that NONE of the datasheeets for electrolytic can caps have the SPACING between the screw holes listed? I mean, the distance changes, it's NOT constant, so it's kinda important, wouldn't cha say?
I could go measure the spacing, but practically speaking, if you're designing something in that you don'T have, well, that's what tech drawings are for, right? I'm talking older datasheets, like Sprague stuff from the 60's. Anyway, of you kno why, or if there's a general consensus or standard on this, I'd like to know.
Thank you all
pfeww. I managed to make it through that without adding too much "colour".
Some of the mechanical aspects are often in a separate data sheet page, linked by a can code number.
See this example:
See this example:
Yep. I used to sell can caps when they were new product, current manufacture. They had standard sizes and fit specific mounting plates. The dimensions were in the back of the catalogues.
Thank you I appreciate the data. I'm still not understanding why the datasheets I saw neglected to refer to dimensional drawings of any kind. Anway, I don't need to ponder that. In 38 minutes I'll be home drawing up my PCB with the info provided.
Hi gain wire,
I assume you're going to make an adapter PCB to use normal capacitors.
Keep in mind that the can was in intimate contact with the capacitor material. Heat was efficiently transferred to the case, then the air. So do not stuff a can with capacitors. The modern smaller dimensioned capacitors are not as good for one. The good ones of the proper size will not fit. The case traps heat, and increases the operating temperature of these capacitors. Not what you want.
For that reason, I only use capacitors from CE manufacturing (expensive, but that construction type always was). Not unless I can use a dual or single can type with terminals. They are correct, and reliable. If someone else came out with capacitors made the same way, I would consider them.
I assume you're going to make an adapter PCB to use normal capacitors.
Keep in mind that the can was in intimate contact with the capacitor material. Heat was efficiently transferred to the case, then the air. So do not stuff a can with capacitors. The modern smaller dimensioned capacitors are not as good for one. The good ones of the proper size will not fit. The case traps heat, and increases the operating temperature of these capacitors. Not what you want.
For that reason, I only use capacitors from CE manufacturing (expensive, but that construction type always was). Not unless I can use a dual or single can type with terminals. They are correct, and reliable. If someone else came out with capacitors made the same way, I would consider them.
anatech,
thank you for the warning, I consider valuable information. At one point I was actually considering, for a restoration project, doing this. I would not have considered that the newer electrolytics, which still dissipate heat, would have had no airflow and exhaust for their heat inside the hollowed out cans (which is what I assume you meant).
However, this is not what I am currently doing. I am actually just making a rectifier board that will attach to the top of my old caps. I finally didn't get to it becuase I lost my circle tracing template. grr...
thank you for the warning, I consider valuable information. At one point I was actually considering, for a restoration project, doing this. I would not have considered that the newer electrolytics, which still dissipate heat, would have had no airflow and exhaust for their heat inside the hollowed out cans (which is what I assume you meant).
However, this is not what I am currently doing. I am actually just making a rectifier board that will attach to the top of my old caps. I finally didn't get to it becuase I lost my circle tracing template. grr...
