This is the wiring diagram for a pair of Sony SS-H3500 (supposedly a 3-way) speakers, but I don’t get it at all. They’re 6 ohms.
It’s a simple first order crossover with the capacitor providing a high pass for the tweeter and the choke (inductor/coil) a low pass for the woofer. (If you trace the wires, ignore the rectangle on the choke this looks like a moulding line on the terminal plate which also holds the choke/inductor/coil).
- terminal > choke > + woofer - > - terminal
- terminal > capacitor > + tweeter - > - terminal (note tweeter may be inverted)
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I think perhaps the lower terminal is not connected to anything, so the mid is crossed with the capacitor. I don't know whether the tweeter is piezo?
Sorry if I misled, I missed the mid on the drawing, thought it was the mounting plate for the tweeter. Apologies.
Looking again I think the Cap in on the mid and the tweeter has no crossover.
Looking again I think the Cap in on the mid and the tweeter has no crossover.
that was my first thot.
Picture looks like a dome. 2.2 µF is about 10kHz for an 8Ω tweeter, 5KHz if 16Ω.
So the sealed midrange roll-offand a natural roll-off at the top wuld allow no XO.
dave
Woofer is low passed by the inductor. The midrange is high passed by the capacitor and its innate inductance and mechanical limits low pass it on the top end. The tweeter is one of those oddballs that Sony had back in the early '90s that was a dome attached to a piezoelectric exciter and so is highpassed by its own capacitance.
Thanx, that explains why it looks like a dome.
Piezos usually need some help at teh bottom to clean them up.
https://frugal-phile.com/piezo-XO.html
dave
Piezos usually need some help at teh bottom to clean them up.
https://frugal-phile.com/piezo-XO.html
dave
It's amusing that a dome is edge connected and a piezo doesn't necessarily move at the edges. I can think of ways but I'd rather not 🙂
Thanks everyone. So... are they really 2-ways with a cheap piezo added for show? Would they sound better if I add a resistor in parallel? Or should I just remove the piezo? It certainly doesn't sound like it's bringing much to the party.
You can try the woofer fullrange without the choke and see if you like it better than a 2 way.
Otherwise, I would leave it like it is. You may not be able to do any better with those drivers.
Otherwise, I would leave it like it is. You may not be able to do any better with those drivers.
Alnico is good. Unfortunately the raw materials for it got expensive.
Speaking of Gool old days, I finally got a match for an EV T250 driver that my grandparents bought in 1965. Three pounds of alnico in those drivers.
Speaking of Gool old days, I finally got a match for an EV T250 driver that my grandparents bought in 1965. Three pounds of alnico in those drivers.
Except when manufacturers gladly left it behind because of the demagnetization issues. SEAS being a good example of adopting barium ferrite before the cobalt supply crisis specifically because it was such an unreliable magnet material. Alcomax was good as at least it resisted it quite well as well as much reduced loss of flux with time, but it came too late and was too expensive to matter outside of a limited market.
This thread has educated me in unexpected ways!
I didn't actually mention this before but I was getting a strange crackle at certain frequencies, I have now disconnected the piezo and the crackle has gone, I also stuffed some foam in the bass port and they now sound much better to my not-very-sensitive ears. One day I might try adding a 22 ohm resistor and 4 uF cap as per:
I didn't actually mention this before but I was getting a strange crackle at certain frequencies, I have now disconnected the piezo and the crackle has gone, I also stuffed some foam in the bass port and they now sound much better to my not-very-sensitive ears. One day I might try adding a 22 ohm resistor and 4 uF cap as per:
...and see if it adds anything, but I doubt I'll bother as they're only for the garage. Thanks everyone for all your comments and help.