The K and M series Pentax cameras were good, but then they lost their way. Their real gems though were their M42 (screw thread) lenses. Very good optics, good coatings, incredible mechanisms as in the focusing. I have most of the commonly used ones and they work surprisingly well on a Canon T-90.
And Minor White. 10 stops, and easy to achieve with modern b&w films and a good (compensating) developer - or use Rodinal's modern replacements and stand develop.
That's the kind of thing I was thinking about. Things like steadicams or rails with motors could be interesting low-cost and small DIY Projects since the camera itself is very small.
That's a good technique too.
BTW with the small Powershot-style Canon I have and which I love, I noticed something one Christmas. My wife usually sets a red Christmas-themed table napkin on the dinner table for the holidays.
No matter how I try - be it with changing Settings, lighting - I can never get this Canon to capture the real shade of red of this napkin.
Either I'm a goof, or else the sensor itself has an issue.
No matter how I try - be it with changing Settings, lighting - I can never get this Canon to capture the real shade of red of this napkin.
Either I'm a goof, or else the sensor itself has an issue.
Zorki started as a Leica copy, but the later models were much improved.
The fake Leicas made from old Zorki and Fed have several web sites about them. Most are obvious fakes, like the fake Luger pistols. A small industry in former USSR, it is years since I checked those out.
A great uncle has a kit, I have to collect it from him in Bombay, short, regular and telephoto lenses.
He says all you need to fix it is a Swiss Amy knife, very simple and rugged.
He was a ship's engineer, it has traveled a lot with him, the Pyramids in Egypt, Eiffel Tower, London Bridge etc.
And it was on a ship for several years, no corrosion issues.
The fake Leicas made from old Zorki and Fed have several web sites about them. Most are obvious fakes, like the fake Luger pistols. A small industry in former USSR, it is years since I checked those out.
A great uncle has a kit, I have to collect it from him in Bombay, short, regular and telephoto lenses.
He says all you need to fix it is a Swiss Amy knife, very simple and rugged.
He was a ship's engineer, it has traveled a lot with him, the Pyramids in Egypt, Eiffel Tower, London Bridge etc.
And it was on a ship for several years, no corrosion issues.
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Model train kit?
Might work....they do shoot movies with a similar method.
Might work....they do shoot movies with a similar method.
Plenty of related info on YT for sure but I would need to know the terminology for the needed rigs.
e.g. instead of Steadycam, I was calling it 'Stabiliser'.
Yasth, probably iPhone & movie & make. I am sure some of the creations I have seen are as yet unnamed.
dave
dave
That's a bit too generic.
But check these: YT Search, YT Search #2
So Dolly / Dolly Track and Gimbal are two other terms that are useful.
Fun stuff!
I was heavy into landscape photography in grad school. I shot everything from 35 mm to 4x6 (inch) sheet film. Shot lots of Fuji Velvia. I joined the digital revolution around 2006 and sold my film gear. The only camera I miss is the Hasselblad 501CM. That was a real camera.
It's no surprise that the pocket cameras have gone away. Most of us now have a far better camera in our phones.
Tom
It's no surprise that the pocket cameras have gone away. Most of us now have a far better camera in our phones.
Tom
DJI, the drone maker has a camera stabilizer made for smartphones. I have the older OSMO Mobile 3 and it does a good job of removing my hand shake, but it can't compensate for the inevitable slight dip when walking while close to the target you are photographing. The newer OSMO Mobile units use feedback from the phone via Bluetooth for better stabilization. Unfortunately they are now limited to a small list of specific phones and there are no Motorola phones on the list. Most iPhones from the X on are on the list and I do have an XS. I don't need a stabilizer at the moment, so I'll stick with my OSMO Mobile 3.
It´s a sensor problem.
Early ones were unduly sensitive to infrared, even today I use a camera or phone to check remote controls functionality.
So they either see something you don´t, and it will probably impact in the Red tuned sensors, or they add an IR filter, which again will affect Red; I guess you are stuck to correcting hue in post-processing to desired or perceive colour.