Hi Brent.
I paid thriugh paypal for 2 Spower's -/+ 15v. I think ive ordered the right ones, if not please send the correct regs.
Lee,
Can you get back to me on the BG Nx for the DAC's Id like to pay asap please
Thanks,
Mike
I paid thriugh paypal for 2 Spower's -/+ 15v. I think ive ordered the right ones, if not please send the correct regs.
Lee,
Can you get back to me on the BG Nx for the DAC's Id like to pay asap please
Thanks,
Mike
Hi Guys.
Ive been posting quite a bit over on fish and Its been very interesting. The trouble is, no-one seems to know with any great certainty what is best for this machine. Ive been reccomended a good diy reg for the opamps but it involves assembly and testing. Also a DIY clock - which apparently is very good (PFM flea) - was advised. Thing is again its a self assembly module that requires testing. Its all very technical over of fish and alot of it goes over my head. Ive tried to understand it and attempted to read datasheets but to no avail. I cant get a definate answer out of anyone either, other than 'you need to study the datasheets'.
I started a thread on opamps and it was suggested that the LM4562 need larger 'film' decoupling caps (47uf). It was also suggested adding a 50/100ohm resistor to the output? Apparently this will stop the opamp ocillating? As I said, all too technical for me right now. Maybe later I'll understand it all. Are these opamps ocillating. (I know i cant spell for s**t)
And so, that brings me back to the place where it all began. Here. I subscribed because I was looking for simple, easy to use, drop-in type upgrades. After carefull consideration I have decided to stick with you guys. I'll be following Brents mods as its allready thought out and I dont have to worry about it. I may chuck in the odd alternate cap or resistor, just to make it my own if you know what I mean.
Got the spowers on the way. Hopefully some BG Nx from Lee. And The resistors needed to attenuate the output per Brents advice above. I had to order new phono plugs as mine are crimped on so I can fit the resistors into the plugs. Ive always fancied Eichman bullets so as they appear to have enough space inside I've ordered some. I also have some BELDEN 1505F interconnect cable (highly regarded, google it) and techflex on order to make up some new leads with.
Ive had an idea though:
I fancy adding one of the PSU's that Brent has for the clock and DAC's. This would mean the digital rails are seperated and as the PSU's have built in spower I wouldnt need to fit regs on the clock or DAC's. Any thoughts here?
Clock wise I am tempted a little by the Flea. However, a C1 with dedicated PSU - as mentioned above - will probably be just as good?
As always your thoughts and input are welcomed and appreciated.
(What happened to simon?)
Ive been posting quite a bit over on fish and Its been very interesting. The trouble is, no-one seems to know with any great certainty what is best for this machine. Ive been reccomended a good diy reg for the opamps but it involves assembly and testing. Also a DIY clock - which apparently is very good (PFM flea) - was advised. Thing is again its a self assembly module that requires testing. Its all very technical over of fish and alot of it goes over my head. Ive tried to understand it and attempted to read datasheets but to no avail. I cant get a definate answer out of anyone either, other than 'you need to study the datasheets'.
I started a thread on opamps and it was suggested that the LM4562 need larger 'film' decoupling caps (47uf). It was also suggested adding a 50/100ohm resistor to the output? Apparently this will stop the opamp ocillating? As I said, all too technical for me right now. Maybe later I'll understand it all. Are these opamps ocillating. (I know i cant spell for s**t)
And so, that brings me back to the place where it all began. Here. I subscribed because I was looking for simple, easy to use, drop-in type upgrades. After carefull consideration I have decided to stick with you guys. I'll be following Brents mods as its allready thought out and I dont have to worry about it. I may chuck in the odd alternate cap or resistor, just to make it my own if you know what I mean.
Got the spowers on the way. Hopefully some BG Nx from Lee. And The resistors needed to attenuate the output per Brents advice above. I had to order new phono plugs as mine are crimped on so I can fit the resistors into the plugs. Ive always fancied Eichman bullets so as they appear to have enough space inside I've ordered some. I also have some BELDEN 1505F interconnect cable (highly regarded, google it) and techflex on order to make up some new leads with.
Ive had an idea though:
I fancy adding one of the PSU's that Brent has for the clock and DAC's. This would mean the digital rails are seperated and as the PSU's have built in spower I wouldnt need to fit regs on the clock or DAC's. Any thoughts here?
Clock wise I am tempted a little by the Flea. However, a C1 with dedicated PSU - as mentioned above - will probably be just as good?
As always your thoughts and input are welcomed and appreciated.
(What happened to simon?)
Simon unsubscribed when people were being negative.
People who say read the data sheets are not helpful and to be honest data sheets often only tell half the story.
The PSU1 or PSU2 is (and I don't mind saying it) better than the audiocom psu for sclock4. You won't go wrong with this psu and you can run it with any clock you choose.
Brent
People who say read the data sheets are not helpful and to be honest data sheets often only tell half the story.
The PSU1 or PSU2 is (and I don't mind saying it) better than the audiocom psu for sclock4. You won't go wrong with this psu and you can run it with any clock you choose.
Brent
Hello Mike,
As I said, there is no one best solution. Everyone has an opinion. Some people want to sell you stuff.
Suggestion for clocking:
1. Easy and good bang for the buck: fit a good regulator to the existing clock. The Teddyreg is good if you can be bothered to make it, other wise something like the Spower or the Tentlabs shunt regulator
2. Best performance: the PFM flea is superb, and will work best with it's own dedicated power power supply. More effort/skill required though.
I don't recommend the clock advertised here ... the C1 master clock.
Cheers,
Dan
As I said, there is no one best solution. Everyone has an opinion. Some people want to sell you stuff.
Suggestion for clocking:
1. Easy and good bang for the buck: fit a good regulator to the existing clock. The Teddyreg is good if you can be bothered to make it, other wise something like the Spower or the Tentlabs shunt regulator
2. Best performance: the PFM flea is superb, and will work best with it's own dedicated power power supply. More effort/skill required though.
I don't recommend the clock advertised here ... the C1 master clock.
Cheers,
Dan
Last night I added the rest of the bits from my now defunct Marantz player. So far I have:
1 x 30va 2x12v - +12v/-12v Spower - discrete output stage
1 x 7va 2x12v - clock psu - Superclock 4
1 x 7va 2x9v - 470uF BG Smoothers - 1 +5v Spower on dac analog & 1 +5v Invisus on Dac Digital
All using Schottky diodes. The original tx windings for the dac board now only supply the digital outputs & relay muting. Still very much in the rough knock up stage.
http://www.diyhi-fi.co.uk/ca640.html
I will update the mods list for anyone who would like it soon.
Cheers, Lee.
edit: still not as good as the old Marantz cd67 though
1 x 30va 2x12v - +12v/-12v Spower - discrete output stage
1 x 7va 2x12v - clock psu - Superclock 4
1 x 7va 2x9v - 470uF BG Smoothers - 1 +5v Spower on dac analog & 1 +5v Invisus on Dac Digital
All using Schottky diodes. The original tx windings for the dac board now only supply the digital outputs & relay muting. Still very much in the rough knock up stage.
http://www.diyhi-fi.co.uk/ca640.html
I will update the mods list for anyone who would like it soon.
Cheers, Lee.
edit: still not as good as the old Marantz cd67 though
Spartacus said:
I am tempted by the flea, I just wish I could get one fully assembled and tested. I dont mind building it but the testing isnt possible and im not about to buy a meter, besides, I wouldnt know how to use it. The other thing you mention - regs on clock supply - is something Im considering.
rowemeister said:
Would I be ok running both DAC's and the clock from one of these PSU's?
Also,
What voltage/type of spower would I need for the standard clock?
Yes you can run lots off these psus. BUT the main idea behind a psu for the clock is to eliminate the clocks supply from everything else.
The clock reg for the standard is crystal cct is 5V and this is mainly for the bufferchip.
Brent
The clock reg for the standard is crystal cct is 5V and this is mainly for the bufferchip.
Brent
Thomo said:
I can't see a reason to believe that it's any better than the clock on the Cambridge, with a standard regulator. The Cambridges clock is shielded - a nice touch. If you are going to fit a good reg such as the Spower to the C1 clock, you may as well fit the reg to the Cambridge clock.
Dan
Hello Thomo,
do you or Brent have any information on the phase noise characteristics of the C1 clock?
Dan
do you or Brent have any information on the phase noise characteristics of the C1 clock?
Dan
Hi everyone.
This is off subject but I listen to radio quite a bit on sky and would love to hear your thoughts on modding the skybox to improve sound quality.
Brent,
You mentioned on the phone that you have modded your sky box. I didnt get a chance to ask about that as my boss was lurking around! Could you post here and let me know the details and results? (Any pics would be nice if you have them)
I ordered a quite a few bits and pieces for my 640 today.
I have spowers for the opamps and clock. Rubycon ZLH caps for the DAC and clock supply. Oscon caps for the DAC and clock supply decoupling. Really looking forward to ithe install.
I decided to take Brents advice on attenuating the CD players rather high output. As my leads have crimped on plugs (Canare LV61S) I decided to order new plugs and cable (Belden 1505F and Eichman bullets) to make up a new set. I seems a shame to snip the ends off my existing cable as they have rather nice plugs and sound really good. Besides, I need a cable for the DVD player.
I listen to the radio (as mentioned above) at night when I go to bed and adjusting the volume at low levels can be a nighmare. If anything attenuating the lead will make this easier, and maybe bring other audible benefiets. Cant wait for the listening tests....!
I probably wont do much more to the CDP for while as the mods Ive done so far have surpassed my amps capabilities. Here Im thinking of a pair of NAIM NAP140 clones and converting the CA Amp to use as a pre-amp. The first stage in doing this will be to improve the pre-amp section with some new opamps and better supply caps. Possibly spowers if theyre applicable. Will seek advice on that elsewhere but feel free to pm me with any ideas.
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
This is off subject but I listen to radio quite a bit on sky and would love to hear your thoughts on modding the skybox to improve sound quality.
Brent,
You mentioned on the phone that you have modded your sky box. I didnt get a chance to ask about that as my boss was lurking around! Could you post here and let me know the details and results? (Any pics would be nice if you have them)
I ordered a quite a few bits and pieces for my 640 today.
I have spowers for the opamps and clock. Rubycon ZLH caps for the DAC and clock supply. Oscon caps for the DAC and clock supply decoupling. Really looking forward to ithe install.
I decided to take Brents advice on attenuating the CD players rather high output. As my leads have crimped on plugs (Canare LV61S) I decided to order new plugs and cable (Belden 1505F and Eichman bullets) to make up a new set. I seems a shame to snip the ends off my existing cable as they have rather nice plugs and sound really good. Besides, I need a cable for the DVD player.
I listen to the radio (as mentioned above) at night when I go to bed and adjusting the volume at low levels can be a nighmare. If anything attenuating the lead will make this easier, and maybe bring other audible benefiets. Cant wait for the listening tests....!
I probably wont do much more to the CDP for while as the mods Ive done so far have surpassed my amps capabilities. Here Im thinking of a pair of NAIM NAP140 clones and converting the CA Amp to use as a pre-amp. The first stage in doing this will be to improve the pre-amp section with some new opamps and better supply caps. Possibly spowers if theyre applicable. Will seek advice on that elsewhere but feel free to pm me with any ideas.
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
"do you or Brent have any information on the phase noise characteristics of the C1 clock?"
Not me no. I don't really know much of the in depth technical info. I try something and if it sounds good, it sounds good. Any advice I give is based solely on my own modding/listening experiences.
All I know is that whenever I've used a C1, it has always improved the sound over the original circuit. Bear in mind that the C1 was never meant to be a wonder-clock, it was meant as a cost-effective upgrade and a great way into upgrading, and as that it succeeds very, very well. My Superclock4 is a fair bit better, but it is about four-times the price. As I've said before, it all depends on budget & needs.
I get the distinct impression from certain posts in this thread that a few people feel I started this thread only to make money. This really isn't the case; I make so little profit on what I sell at the moment, that it's really not worth the time I've put into it, but I like that I can help other people save a bit too.
I thought people might like to see what I've done to improve my player, and hoped I may also learn something in return. I am glad I have been able to help a few people and contribute to the forum, in return for all the help I have so far received.
Lee.
Not me no. I don't really know much of the in depth technical info. I try something and if it sounds good, it sounds good. Any advice I give is based solely on my own modding/listening experiences.
All I know is that whenever I've used a C1, it has always improved the sound over the original circuit. Bear in mind that the C1 was never meant to be a wonder-clock, it was meant as a cost-effective upgrade and a great way into upgrading, and as that it succeeds very, very well. My Superclock4 is a fair bit better, but it is about four-times the price. As I've said before, it all depends on budget & needs.
I get the distinct impression from certain posts in this thread that a few people feel I started this thread only to make money. This really isn't the case; I make so little profit on what I sell at the moment, that it's really not worth the time I've put into it, but I like that I can help other people save a bit too.
I thought people might like to see what I've done to improve my player, and hoped I may also learn something in return. I am glad I have been able to help a few people and contribute to the forum, in return for all the help I have so far received.
Lee.
Thomo said:
Hello Lee,
I'm sure the C1 is a fine clock. Does the oscillator module have a name and model number? I'd be interested to check it out.
I started building my own clocks years ago when Trichord brought out their first. My first attempts were rather simple, but I was still impressed with how easy it was bring about an improvement - it demonstrated just how poor the clocks of many (most?) players used to be. Just hanging a crystal off of a digital filter like e.g. the SAA7220 isn't good enough.
Looking at the CA diagram and pictures it's obvious Cambridge have gone to rather more effort. My guess is that the clock in the CA is primarily held back by the cheapy 7805 regulator, therefore I feel that unless going for a "super clock", best bang for the buck is achieved by simply upgrading the 7805 on the existing clock.
Dan
replacing just the clock in any cd player is pretty much wasted effort, especially if all you are doing is replacing like with like, ie one TXCO shielded for another identical one with a different name on the can.
Replacing its local regulation is much more worth while.
If you are going to do anything then a seperate clock board with a fully shielded clock on a seperate ground, like Lars d-clock is worthwhile.
i like this quote from Sercal, "Low noise, fast response voltage regulators. These top-quality devices are drop-in replacements for 3-pin "TO-220" regulators, as can be found in almost any CD player. These regulators are comparable with well known low noise regulators 3X the price!"
give yourself a break guys you are only £10 more expensive that audiocom regulators, not three times as expensive.....
Replacing its local regulation is much more worth while.
If you are going to do anything then a seperate clock board with a fully shielded clock on a seperate ground, like Lars d-clock is worthwhile.
i like this quote from Sercal, "Low noise, fast response voltage regulators. These top-quality devices are drop-in replacements for 3-pin "TO-220" regulators, as can be found in almost any CD player. These regulators are comparable with well known low noise regulators 3X the price!"
give yourself a break guys you are only £10 more expensive that audiocom regulators, not three times as expensive.....
Rowemeister, or should it be "Cammeister", I have been watching this thread with interest as I have a 640cV2. I am assuming that the basic mods carried out to the V1, can be done on the V2 ?
I do not want to spend a vast amount of money and wondered what you would say were the most effective bits to up-grade without a whoelsale revamp ?
I do not want to spend a vast amount of money and wondered what you would say were the most effective bits to up-grade without a whoelsale revamp ?
Puffin said:
Yes the same upgrades can be done on the V2. The V2 does cost more to upgrade as there are lots more parts to change due to the twin dac arrangement.
The first cheap upgrade is to change the opamps and capacitors on the power rails.
Brent
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