The Rubycons are better - they have a lower impedance, 15mR compared to 22mR. This means they will filter out noise better. As for how much to use, well there's simply no substitute for experimentation!
Opamps aren't particularly sensitive to the power supply, at least compared to some other parts, and you already have good regs in there, so how much more benefit there is to be gained is hard to say for sure without actually doing it.
Opamps aren't particularly sensitive to the power supply, at least compared to some other parts, and you already have good regs in there, so how much more benefit there is to be gained is hard to say for sure without actually doing it.
Clock power supply
You could use a single 470uF for smoothing, or a 10000uF, depending on how excessive you want to be. 2200uF is a good compromise in my opinion. This is for the clock psu. ZLH, ZA, FC and more - all low impedance industrial types, all quite expensive and high spec. It doesn't really matter what you use here.
For supplying the op-amps larger could potentially bring some gains, less so when using S Power regulators (as these will leave so little noise either way).
What goes after the regulator is more critical. Black Gates are good for a smooth, silky sound. Elna Cerafines also make a similar sound but are perhaps slightly more midrangey. Panasonic FC or Rubycon ZA might sound detailed but can be a bit much. Probably not a good idea in a player like this that lacks warmth to begin with.
Simon
mikesnowdon said:
You could use a single 470uF for smoothing, or a 10000uF, depending on how excessive you want to be. 2200uF is a good compromise in my opinion. This is for the clock psu. ZLH, ZA, FC and more - all low impedance industrial types, all quite expensive and high spec. It doesn't really matter what you use here.
For supplying the op-amps larger could potentially bring some gains, less so when using S Power regulators (as these will leave so little noise either way).
What goes after the regulator is more critical. Black Gates are good for a smooth, silky sound. Elna Cerafines also make a similar sound but are perhaps slightly more midrangey. Panasonic FC or Rubycon ZA might sound detailed but can be a bit much. Probably not a good idea in a player like this that lacks warmth to begin with.
Simon
Im talking about the Main smoothers were the supply from Tx feeds into. The 2 large blue caps (C96, C100).
Sorry if you all thoght I was on about somethong else!
Sorry if you all thoght I was on about somethong else!
mikesnowdon said:Im talking about the Main smoothers were the supply from Tx feeds into. The 2 large blue caps (C96, C100).
Sorry if you all thoght I was on about somethong else!
Those'll be less important once you start adding additional transformers and power supplies.
Yes, Brent used some Rubycon caps there, but he didn't add any transformers, so these smoothers were a real weak area. You could follow what he did here, and use similar caps for your new clock psu too.
Simon
If you look on the datasheet, these caps have a ripple current of 2800mA. For a cap this size, that's not a particularly impressive value, so I wouldn't use these. Have you replaced the diodes with Schottky types yet? This will help.
Very nice.
Its soo much smoother and more detialed than before. The grainy edge has gone and theres more space around the instruments.
I recently changed an opamp in the preamp section of my CA 340SE (fitted an OPA2107 in place of the NE5532, swapped its decoupling caps for BG 220uf)) and it really brought the system to life. I think its because using a better opamp in the 340 has allowed the the mods to the CDP to shine through.
Another mod ive done is to make a I/C from Gold plated silver wire, with Eicmann bullets. Again this opened things up even more alowing the 640 to really show what its made of.
Fitting the OPA2107 in the Amp has brought good results in the bass, more powerful and detailed, not sure if its only the 2107 doing this but a combination of the above.
Ive got some PCB's for the Teddyregs (See Pinkfishmedia.net) which I plan to use on the DAC's digi & analogue supply's. Just waiting for someone to work out how to get the correct voltage out before I build them.
Following that I'll be looking out for a suitable PSU to feed the Spower on the clock.
Its soo much smoother and more detialed than before. The grainy edge has gone and theres more space around the instruments.
I recently changed an opamp in the preamp section of my CA 340SE (fitted an OPA2107 in place of the NE5532, swapped its decoupling caps for BG 220uf)) and it really brought the system to life. I think its because using a better opamp in the 340 has allowed the the mods to the CDP to shine through.
Another mod ive done is to make a I/C from Gold plated silver wire, with Eicmann bullets. Again this opened things up even more alowing the 640 to really show what its made of.
Fitting the OPA2107 in the Amp has brought good results in the bass, more powerful and detailed, not sure if its only the 2107 doing this but a combination of the above.
Ive got some PCB's for the Teddyregs (See Pinkfishmedia.net) which I plan to use on the DAC's digi & analogue supply's. Just waiting for someone to work out how to get the correct voltage out before I build them.
Following that I'll be looking out for a suitable PSU to feed the Spower on the clock.
Hi Mike
All good news then 😉 .
I think the Mudorf M-Lytics are excellent value for money as smoothing caps, I have swapped a few large caps with these now and after burn in have been quite impressed.
Brent
All good news then 😉 .
I think the Mudorf M-Lytics are excellent value for money as smoothing caps, I have swapped a few large caps with these now and after burn in have been quite impressed.
Brent
Those M-lytics look tempting! I only need 4700uf though and the size concerns me.
Ive been looking at discrete buffer modules for my amp (off subject I know but its the weekend and I need to ask!). Could your discrete be used to replace the opamp 'input buffer' in my Amp? The curernt opamp based buffer provides 6db of gain but I dont need that much. The CD player has plenty of gain so I only need a little more from the preamp. What do you think?
I see the psu kits are on the website now, Im definately getting one, do you have a kit price yet?
Ive been looking at discrete buffer modules for my amp (off subject I know but its the weekend and I need to ask!). Could your discrete be used to replace the opamp 'input buffer' in my Amp? The curernt opamp based buffer provides 6db of gain but I dont need that much. The CD player has plenty of gain so I only need a little more from the preamp. What do you think?
I see the psu kits are on the website now, Im definately getting one, do you have a kit price yet?
Hi Mike
Increasing your uF on the smoothers will help with bass etc as there will be more headroom.
Out discrete output is primarily designed for the cd63 67 range of marantz players but can be converted to other cd players. There is however no gain as these are approx 1:1.
Have a word Lee at diy-hifi as he has been building some custom buffers for himself. He may build you one.
There will be a kit or two this week for the psus.
Brent
Increasing your uF on the smoothers will help with bass etc as there will be more headroom.
Out discrete output is primarily designed for the cd63 67 range of marantz players but can be converted to other cd players. There is however no gain as these are approx 1:1.
Have a word Lee at diy-hifi as he has been building some custom buffers for himself. He may build you one.
There will be a kit or two this week for the psus.
Brent
340A Power amp and PSU modding:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=131847&highlight=
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=131847&highlight=
Hi Brent,
Could you tell me which of the six opamps are used for the output buffer stage.
Thanks
Ned
Could you tell me which of the six opamps are used for the output buffer stage.
Thanks
Ned
Hi All,
I'm having a slight problem with my rig, maybe you can help.
I've upgraded all opamps, capacitors, some resistors and regulators as discused in this forum.
The only thing I haven't replaced is the clock.
The problem is, when I play a high frequencey test tone- instead of a pure tone- I get a "ticking" noise with it.
Almost like an arcing noise. And sometimes when I open the drawer to remove a disk,
I'll get a "staticy pop".
Any ideas?
Ned
I'm having a slight problem with my rig, maybe you can help.
I've upgraded all opamps, capacitors, some resistors and regulators as discused in this forum.
The only thing I haven't replaced is the clock.
The problem is, when I play a high frequencey test tone- instead of a pure tone- I get a "ticking" noise with it.
Almost like an arcing noise. And sometimes when I open the drawer to remove a disk,
I'll get a "staticy pop".
Any ideas?
Ned
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