Cal's Bybee experience

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Hmmm, "not intended for full range" sounds funny...any ideas on the reason for this recommendation ?.
Do you have an Auratone type (Fostex FR for example) box to try it out on at reasonably low power....maybe the QP saturates or something at too high an AC current level ???.....the close to zero DC resistance should not cause any serious damping factor or thermal changes to be evident ???.
Just trying to explore the possibilities....

Eric.
 
Cal, IF you really want to try one of these devices, you should just put it in series with a QUALITY loudspeaker, or electrostatic headphones (that is what I use) either at LINE LEVEL or LOUDSPEAKER LEVEL. You should know your listening source well, both source and sound emitter. If you don't want to go through the trouble, please return them for full refund.
 
BTW just got home from working at a ZZ Top concert..good show and great live sound.....last week was Grace Jones...magical show and even better sound.

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Just trying to explore the possibilities....
Eric, I ask that you go back to post #1 and read what I have done.

Cal, IF you really want to try one of these devices, you should just put it in series with a QUALITY loudspeaker
I ask that you too go back to post #1. Not only have I done some quiet passage through some very good speakers, I have trimmed down the list to encompass only the drivers I found a difference to begin with. Do you not consider the Aurum Cantus G3 and the CSS RT1 to be good drivers? This time round they were paired with some very revealing 3" drivers with the Bybees both in and out of the mid circuit for parts and with the tweeters by themselves at other times.

LINE LEVEL
This will be my next area of testing.

If you don't want to go through the trouble
C'mon John, what the ** do you think I've been doing? I have spent many hours working with these, keeping an open mind and reporting in a respectful way. To say that just makes me shake my head.
 
Think POWER DISSIPATION, FOLKS. The small devices have a serious CURRENT LIMIT. They are small, would you expect MORE? The larger ones are for full systems turned up loud, but you could try the small ones at normal levels.

What happens when the current limit is reached? Does it stop improving the sound or add detectable amounts of distortion?

Is there any manufacturer rated value for maximum power and derating vs temperature?

From manufacturer's webpage - Current-handling: 4.3A. Cal did you get anywhere near this value at any time during testing?
 
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Sorry Cal, I thought that you were just stopped somewhere. I DID just talk with Jack Bybee. He did confirm that these little devices are primarily for tweeters, but what I recommended would be OK, so long as you did not overheat them. What I did was just added a 'quality' RCA male and female connector and took them in or out.
 
Current-handling: 4.3A. Cal did you get anywhere near this value at any time during testing?

During break in, I ran them about 1 to 10 watts music power. The Bybees did not get hot but the resistors I was using for dummy loads were quite warm. During testing I am only around 0.1 to 1 watt. These ribbons get quite loud when you are maximum 2 meters away. When Dave was over, I managed to get as much as 6 meters while he was switching them.

NO, it overheats, and this could damage them. Look at the size, note the .025 ohm resistance, and NO heatsinks! How much heat can you get out of the leads, anyway?

They pretty much stayed at room temperature throughout the break in.
 
All resistors generate heat. Heat has to be DISSIPATED. 1/2W inside a closed plastic surface that is very small in area, is a lot of rise in temperature. IF you don't believe me, get a 1/2 W resistor, cover it in cellophane and run 1/2 W dissipation through it. Then touch it after 10 minutes. Then you will know what I know. '-)
 
Cal, I wish to point out that the Bybee devices CAN be damaged by excessive heat. How do I know? Well, Jack Bybee did in a few, with his soldering iron and the wrong solder. In fact, about 10 years ago he called me to tell him about how to get a lower temp solder. He uses a fair amount of indium now, but it isn't always necessary, because he also laser welds many junctions these days, and I presume that they are pretty efficient and low in excessive heat generation.
Jack, I know for sure, uses Pace RF controlled irons for much the same reason. I just use Weller, and I often get into trouble these days. Kind of reminds me of the days when we used these big soldering GUNS to solder connections. Remember them, anybody? Work great for tube circuits.
 
Wow, I knew Perth was a little behind the times, but that's crazy.
..and Bob Dylan too.
WA (Western Australia) is known as the 'Wait Awhile' state.
I get paid to work/see these shows but I don't get to choose which ones.. :eek:
Santana and Michael Buble have been other recent big shows....can't wait for Justin Biebler to come to town.. :rolleyes:

Eric.
 
To answer a few questions from earlier posts:

In dig out I mean 2 slipstream bybees connected to the SPdif off the transport...

Overdamped I mean like there is no viberant life to the music....BUT I must admit a huge mistake in that review...I completely forgot about the fact that all my gear had been out of power for a couple of hours...and if you own tubes...you know immediately what I mean. So wrong judgement...my bad..:eek:.

The results of putting bybees in are actually always the same to me.. TO ME ....no matter where I connect them...I experience more color/timbre on the instruments, more real so to speak, a quietness/ease added to the music.

A special side effect of using the golden bybees on my speakerfilter was...uhhh... sort of grandeur came over the music ....a bit comparable with getting a (slightly) bigger amp of the same brand or something like that ( a find it bit hard to put bybee-effects in words actually) :cool:

Hope I answered all of it...;)
 
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