I am considering the purchase of this caliper:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018D9JPPA/?tag=best-digital-calipers-20&asc_source=browser&asc_refurl=https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-digital-caliper&ascsubtag=0000BV0000130907O1400072020230206080612
Anyone have experience with it? Anyone have a suggestion for a better one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018D9JPPA/?tag=best-digital-calipers-20&asc_source=browser&asc_refurl=https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-digital-caliper&ascsubtag=0000BV0000130907O1400072020230206080612
Anyone have experience with it? Anyone have a suggestion for a better one?
The double-edged sword about the Clockwise caliper is that it offers a USB connection to a computer!; BUT, the connector appears to be a proprietary one and the cable they offer to do this costs 1.5x the price of the caliper itself!!
I just went to Harbor Freight Tools and got a Pittsburgh brand caliper that looks almost exactly like that one. Works great.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html
Yes, that Harbor Freight one looks VERY similar. No mention of computer connectivity, though.....?????Almost same price.
I have one, definitely no connectivity. Works well, and is as accurate as more expensive ones.
Why would anyone need one with a USB cable? And how long would that extra battery last?
Why would anyone need one with a USB cable? And how long would that extra battery last?
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Maybe someone doing QA, but then if you're doing QA, you'd most likely be using a Mitutoyo anyway.Why would anyone need one with a USB cable?
jeff
That is probably true, but it does seem that any higher resolution than the Clockwise's .01mm (which is the limit of my 5.1.6 version of KiCad anyway) seems to cost astronomically more. BUT...if anybody has seen a caliper with better resolution than .01mm at anywhere near $25, I'd love to hear about it.
Well, at the moment, I am trying to fit a PCB onto an existing array of XLR connectors panel-mounted on an Otari tape machine. The distance between connectors is not documented in the service manual, and is critical to having the PCB board fit on them EXACTLY. I've made enough errors with my manual measurement methods so far, and a rerun of PCB boards gets expensive and very time-consuming; so I'd like to get it EXACTLY right this time!
Other applications for the calipers is to measure the diameter of an existing guitar string. Changing tunings on a lap steel guitar requires different gauges for different tunings, and changing back and forth can get pretty confusing as to what string goes where.
Other applications for the calipers is to measure the diameter of an existing guitar string. Changing tunings on a lap steel guitar requires different gauges for different tunings, and changing back and forth can get pretty confusing as to what string goes where.
If possible, mount the connectors on the machine, and then fit the pcb on them and solder.
There's some slop in the mounting of the connectors on the board that can cause problems,
especially if the machine mounting holes are clearance holes with little tolerance.
There's some slop in the mounting of the connectors on the board that can cause problems,
especially if the machine mounting holes are clearance holes with little tolerance.
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Buy a dial caliper like this one, no hassles with batteries, best for occasional use. No ties to this seller, generic image from the net.
You are better off with a micrometer for strings, caliper is more suitable for connector work.
Mitutoyo are very good, you might find used ones at a good price.
The one you have linked to is generic Chinese, the cheapest ones are $10 or so here, and the decent ones are marked 'Aerospace', apparently a government owned fighter airplane factory makes them as a side business (!).
The cheaper Chinese ones are terrible, bad quality investment castings, poor threads, thin foil on PCBs, and so on...I have had to repair some, and after that I got myself a dial caliper, for my needs it is OK, plastic molding has wider tolerances than metal machining.
I also have Mitutoyo calipers (plain Vernier), and a Mitutoyo 25 mm micrometer.
I would solder the connectors, then fill the gap with epoxy putty or rigid silicon, there you are...good strong connector.
If needed, for thick sections, add layers of fiberglass woven ribbon to add strength.
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Recherche pour "NEIKO 01417A Pied à coulisse numérique de 15,2 cm" dans Amazon... C'est «good enough».I am considering the purchase of this caliper:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018D9JPPA/?tag=best-digital-calipers-20&asc_source=browser&asc_refurl=https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-digital-caliper&ascsubtag=0000BV0000130907O1400072020230206080612
Anyone have experience with it? Anyone have a suggestion for a better one?
(search for "NEIKO 01417A Pied à coulisse numérique de 15,2 cm" on Amazon... It's "good enough".)
@dotneck335 ; I have these, I like them. They measure dead on with my Starrett caliper. I'm on tapeheads also
Lookup iGaging on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSO...1675823068&sprefix=igaging+6"+,aps,189&sr=8-4
They're $44, but they are absolute like the Mitutoyo calipers.
THEY ARE WORTH IT!
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSO...1675823068&sprefix=igaging+6"+,aps,189&sr=8-4
They're $44, but they are absolute like the Mitutoyo calipers.
THEY ARE WORTH IT!
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