Is there a formula (however imprecise) of calculating a driver's power handling according to frequency range?
In a traditional 2-way system you can use ROT of an 80/20 split, 65/25/10 for a 3-way.
But in modern systems I can find no guidelines. e.g. Let's take a pair of 2-way 100w full-range speakers being used in an AV system. Add a sub, and crossover at 100hz. (Ignore the tweeter) What is the new power handling of the full range cabinets?
I'm interested in this because I've dismantled several commercial units. It explains why a Yamaha YST-SW60 sub has a driver stamped 25 watts.
In a traditional 2-way system you can use ROT of an 80/20 split, 65/25/10 for a 3-way.
But in modern systems I can find no guidelines. e.g. Let's take a pair of 2-way 100w full-range speakers being used in an AV system. Add a sub, and crossover at 100hz. (Ignore the tweeter) What is the new power handling of the full range cabinets?
I'm interested in this because I've dismantled several commercial units. It explains why a Yamaha YST-SW60 sub has a driver stamped 25 watts.
Well you can look at this if you can find access
AES Convention Papers Forum >> Power Transmission Through Crossover Networks
It's a tricky topic:
- There are hardly any comprehensive studies of the spectrum of music
- Then you have to consider peak power (=amplifier size needed), versus long-term average (more related to the drivers).
Having said all that, can you expand on what you said? And why you ask? Because I'm not sure I truly understand what you want to know.
P.S. Take it from this speaker engineer, power handling specs are 67% nonsense and 30% marketing bullsh!t. So "25 watts" means nothing. Some pro brands do actual testing which is *somewhat* more relevant but that's more the exception I'd say.
AES Convention Papers Forum >> Power Transmission Through Crossover Networks
It's a tricky topic:
- There are hardly any comprehensive studies of the spectrum of music
- Then you have to consider peak power (=amplifier size needed), versus long-term average (more related to the drivers).
Having said all that, can you expand on what you said? And why you ask? Because I'm not sure I truly understand what you want to know.
P.S. Take it from this speaker engineer, power handling specs are 67% nonsense and 30% marketing bullsh!t. So "25 watts" means nothing. Some pro brands do actual testing which is *somewhat* more relevant but that's more the exception I'd say.
Because I like to know the full-range power handling capabilities of a driver.
If I get some specs from a random HT receiver: a Samsung HTZ claims to deliver 166w to each of the satellite speakers. (It doesn't). Each of the satellite speakers contains a single 2" driver which I seriously doubt can handle 166w.
Samsung state the output crossover point is 140Hz. It makes sense that box-shippers will push the crossover point as high as possible so they can make smaller unobtrusive satellites.
The information I seek will inform me (1) whether or not I can safely replace the satellites with 30w bookshelf speakers. (2) If I use the 4, 2" drivers to make a full-range centre speaker, how many watts can it handle?