I am building a cabinet to include a full range driver .
the volume is 15 litres . The wood is birch , I would like to leave the finish naked wood and am using simple but joints ( first project )
I am not sure how to secure cabinet -- I dont want to use screws -
is gluing eneough ? may be brads ?
Jeff
[ ]
the volume is 15 litres . The wood is birch , I would like to leave the finish naked wood and am using simple but joints ( first project )
I am not sure how to secure cabinet -- I dont want to use screws -
is gluing eneough ? may be brads ?
Jeff
[ ]
Glue. Use nail gun or clamps to hold pieces during the drying process.
No finish? The ultimate finish will then be hand prints, dust, and grime. At least consider a light coat of lacquer. It will make cleaning easier and help stabilize the structure.
No finish? The ultimate finish will then be hand prints, dust, and grime. At least consider a light coat of lacquer. It will make cleaning easier and help stabilize the structure.
I have two words for you, sir: Biscuit joints. They are easy to do and strong. They also have some nice effects like helping to align the wood for glue-up. Freud (the company not the eminent doctor) makes a relatively inexpensive biscuit joiner (~120?) which people like. Once you've got one you'll feel empowered to make all kinds of things.
I second the recommendation of a finish. Deft brand lacquers are easy to apply and they come in both brush-on form and aerosol cans which are invaluable for touch-up and finish coats. The only bad thing is that the stuff is noxious as hell while curing but if you are finishing in a garage it'll be okay--use good ventilation and/or a paint respirator anyway. I'd consider a base coat of shellac (only use wax-free) or Benite (great stuff) too, as either one will deepen the look of the wood.
Good luck with your project.
I second the recommendation of a finish. Deft brand lacquers are easy to apply and they come in both brush-on form and aerosol cans which are invaluable for touch-up and finish coats. The only bad thing is that the stuff is noxious as hell while curing but if you are finishing in a garage it'll be okay--use good ventilation and/or a paint respirator anyway. I'd consider a base coat of shellac (only use wax-free) or Benite (great stuff) too, as either one will deepen the look of the wood.
Good luck with your project.
biscuit joiner=cool
brad nailer=dirt cheap
deft is an excellent product.
Lacquers are nice because there aren't any real dust issues. Dries in a flash.
For a small project, including protection for brushed aluminum, an aerosol can spray product can give excellent results. It's perfect if you have ADD because it's dry before you're distracted by the other audio projects.
brad nailer=dirt cheap
deft is an excellent product.
Lacquers are nice because there aren't any real dust issues. Dries in a flash.
For a small project, including protection for brushed aluminum, an aerosol can spray product can give excellent results. It's perfect if you have ADD because it's dry before you're distracted by the other audio projects.
cabinet
First thanks to those who responded
The biscuit joiner seems like a great idea .
I was at HF tools today and the 2 " brad nailer, stapler was on sale
for 29 clams (had to have it ) so is just glue OK with clamps or should
I put some brads in it for added strength . I am ready to rock and roll
I just finished cuting all the sides , and the drivers came today
Thanks Jeff
First thanks to those who responded
The biscuit joiner seems like a great idea .
I was at HF tools today and the 2 " brad nailer, stapler was on sale
for 29 clams (had to have it ) so is just glue OK with clamps or should
I put some brads in it for added strength . I am ready to rock and roll
I just finished cuting all the sides , and the drivers came today
Thanks Jeff
The only purpose the brads will serve is to hold the pieces together while the glue dries. If you have some other means to hold the wood together (i.e. clamps) while the glue dries then you don't need the brads.
But brads will make assembly easier if you are using clamps, kinda like having an additional set of hands to hold everything together while you clamp it. The downside is the little holes created on your finished edge.
But brads will make assembly easier if you are using clamps, kinda like having an additional set of hands to hold everything together while you clamp it. The downside is the little holes created on your finished edge.
If you are using a brad nailer I wouldn't even bother with the clamps. I've built a couple of speakers using just a air powered brad nailer and glue. Works great, plus makes assembly pretty quick.
Joe
Joe
You can't beat Harbor Freight for occasional-use tools. Including clamps. You can never have enough clamps but in your case i'd recommend using a clamp to bring pressure to bear, nail next to the clamp, and then move it a few inches and repeat. Otherwise your investment in enough clamps for your size project will be significant.
If you don't have experience with a nailer, or even if you do, the nails can go astray, aka 'blowout'. If that happens all is not lost--use a pair of end-cutter cutters (HF to the rescue?) to snip the nail a little below the surface and trust to wood filler to cover the sorry mess up. I'm guessing that an electric nailer will be slightly more prone to blowout than an air gun but that might be wrong. I'd aim the nail a few degrees towards the cabinet insides wherever possible.
If you don't have experience with a nailer, or even if you do, the nails can go astray, aka 'blowout'. If that happens all is not lost--use a pair of end-cutter cutters (HF to the rescue?) to snip the nail a little below the surface and trust to wood filler to cover the sorry mess up. I'm guessing that an electric nailer will be slightly more prone to blowout than an air gun but that might be wrong. I'd aim the nail a few degrees towards the cabinet insides wherever possible.
And the nail gun is one of those tools where you should go find your safety glasses. I have a shop with mills lathes and saws. The bench grinder and the nail gun are "safety glasses" recommended.
I just saw a richochet last night ~ hit the kid's arm ~ no blood but he had glasses on.
Has anybody else noted the total lack of safey on the popular home construction shows.. Monster House and that stuff? The most striking new fad is wearing gloves near rotating equipment... never a good idea.
I just saw a richochet last night ~ hit the kid's arm ~ no blood but he had glasses on.
Has anybody else noted the total lack of safey on the popular home construction shows.. Monster House and that stuff? The most striking new fad is wearing gloves near rotating equipment... never a good idea.
tips
Thanks for the tips It is AIR nailer I have. After reading the precautions I am a little spooked about using the nailer. Maybe I will practice on some old stock , and since this is my first project
(got table saw fro christmas ) I have plenty of that .Ihave only 2
clamps.
jeff oh one last question what is the best way to
install a port it will be 2 " x 2 " , buy a flared port tube, use pvc ?
Thanks for the tips It is AIR nailer I have. After reading the precautions I am a little spooked about using the nailer. Maybe I will practice on some old stock , and since this is my first project
(got table saw fro christmas ) I have plenty of that .Ihave only 2
clamps.
jeff oh one last question what is the best way to
install a port it will be 2 " x 2 " , buy a flared port tube, use pvc ?
practice never hurts. Neither does figuring out a glue-up strategy before you've spread the glue out--trust me on that one!
I'd only use pvc if you can really smooth out the exposed end, otherwise it's going to look cheesy at best. Either that or cut the cabinet hole to the inside diameter of the pvc and mount the pvc on a flange attached to the cabinet wall, which might not be a bad way to go because you could then experiment with different port lengths before using sealant. Assuming you'd want to.
I'd only use pvc if you can really smooth out the exposed end, otherwise it's going to look cheesy at best. Either that or cut the cabinet hole to the inside diameter of the pvc and mount the pvc on a flange attached to the cabinet wall, which might not be a bad way to go because you could then experiment with different port lengths before using sealant. Assuming you'd want to.
What kind of filler is fool proof for mdf cabinets. I'm going to paint my next speakers and I don't wan't to see any cracks or dents after few years.
DIAR said:
Wood filler works well but automotive "Bondo" is cheaper and better if you intend to paint.
Use wax-free shellac to seal the mdf as it won't raise the grain. I also read an article in fine woodworking or someplace where the guy filled the edges of the mdf with drywall compount to smooth it and make it less thirsty. Sounds like a good idea to me--I did an mdf entertainment cabinet and the exposed edges just would not disappear under the primer until I had primed and sanded waaaay too many times.
one down
Well one cabinet done , looks ok fro first one . Did have one BLOWOUT with the brad nailer but it was on the bottom . everyones input was very helpfull . I cant wait to fire them up , hope they sound ok .
Jeff
Well one cabinet done , looks ok fro first one . Did have one BLOWOUT with the brad nailer but it was on the bottom . everyones input was very helpfull . I cant wait to fire them up , hope they sound ok .
Jeff
- Status
- Not open for further replies.