Find the exact value that sounds best, it may be not 10 uF exactly. Try to work around 9 uF to 11 uF by 0,47 uF increment then by 0,1 uF. Do that with cheap film cap that measure precise Solen and Jantzen are often below 3% precision. Once you get the value, for example 10,4 uF try to get that exact value for each channel with no more than 0,05 uF mismatch and avoiding the smallest // values if possible. Some brands have 0,15 , 0,22 , 0,33 uF film caps...if needed!
Only then you can question about the cap model imho. First the precise capacitance and L&R marching, second only the cap model. That means also to swap all the lythics due to drifting and capacitance mismatchs.
This extra work when going to film caps from lythics pays and brands can not permit themselves to do that due to the caps sorting out and extra time cost. But it is a game changer.
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If you disconnected the Miflex immediately, you haven't given them time to settle in ...They need a days running (Absolute minimum) before judgement IMO.
on speaker last time play with caps is 2007 when the black SA claritycaps came out ...very smooth ,some bypass vishay or mundorf s/o ....it's time to refresh with new clarity for me...CSA series + miflex
What are the difference between the CSA and the SA....I was said the SA was the more neutral of both with a sort of mat sound ?
the csa are the evolution ... humblehome made wos spot on my test ...is good guide
Ps for amp too
Ps for amp too
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I read it, but I found few difference in the text while someone said me he prefered the SA and the difference bigger than Tony G. suggests
Is the CSA brigther then the SA, or is the difference elsewhere according your test please ? How good for a midrange ?
Is the CSA brigther then the SA, or is the difference elsewhere according your test please ? How good for a midrange ?
can be, but we need to test to know ,your brigther can not mine...diy fun!
the last diy Pass vfet is wonderfull on my scanspeak hopes to gain a little more soon
the last diy Pass vfet is wonderfull on my scanspeak hopes to gain a little more soon
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Reconnected the Miflex on Thursday evening after your post and let them burn in for 3 days of almost continuous music.
Sadly, I still could not appreciate the result. There is definitely reverb taking place at higher frequencies. Every single artist's voice seems to have a mild echo. I appreciate bypass caps may provide clarity and an enlarged sound stage, e.g. bells at the start of Jason Mraz's "93 million miles" have never sounded so defined and airy, popping out of nowhere, but artists' voices were thrown to the background and sounded "echoey".
Anyway, after disconnecting them this evening, music was once again tight and sharp, instruments located with pinpoint precision, voices dry and present in my living room, right in front of me - not wet nor flowing out around me.
Bypassing might work with some speakers, and to one's taste, but on my B&W 601s2s featuring metal dome tweeters (already punching in the highs) it just didn't work. Maybe my caps have issues (bought them from reputable vendor "hifi collective" here in the UK where I bought all my other crossover upgrades which work amazingly) or the caps don't play ball with Jantzen Standard caps, or simply don't benefit metal dome tweeters, but either way, I'm happy they're off.
I really tried to give these Miflex a chance!
May I suggest you just avoid electrolytic capacitors. Larger film caps are available, albeit expensive. But larger caps are only required for low frequencies where you should probably consider using a sub anyway.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products...AQTziQAX3nsYUANqCAngBtqjAAQBjammoGiAe0YgAuvKA
https://www.digikey.com/en/products...AQTziQAX3nsYUANqCAngBtqjAAQBjammoGiAe0YgAuvKA
I'm not using electrolytics! I mentioned that my crossovers use Jantzen standard caps (pp foil). I was trying to bypass these with supposedly better copper foil oil paper caps, but the result wasn't good 🙂
Oh, and I'm using a REL T7 sub, getting me down to 30-32Hz!
What is the attribute the jantzen standard is lacking in your filter or you want to tame ? Details?
I’ve had great luck bypassing hi quality film caps in my crossovers. You have to be patient and let all film caps break-in…that bypass cap probably needs a 100 hrs. to start to shine. All caps have a sonic signature, and generally you get what you pay for in my experience. Adding a 0.1 uF bypass cap, to say an 8uF or even a 2.2uF film cap in most crossover designs is not going to change the designed output very much-check the changes with XSim or whatever design software you are using.
Though it is also true, as is typical of the hi-end, that the more you pay for high quality caps, the less the relative apparent change. It all depends on where the weak spots are in your system.
Though it is also true, as is typical of the hi-end, that the more you pay for high quality caps, the less the relative apparent change. It all depends on where the weak spots are in your system.
Is it possible you've created a resonance while bypassing? Does your reputable supplier measure parasitic reactance beyond these higher frequencies? How do you tell if that's a good thing or a bad thing because all capacitors go that way in the end?
How sounds those resonances ?
In power supllies lines and local loads decoupling some claim a bypass should not be less than 10% of the higher value ?
Same with a AC signal ? I setuped a XO around 100hz and at ears for the final I had both on the high pass and low pass to be precise till 0.1 uF . It suprised me when the starting value of the low pass is 100 uF and the high pass more than 270 uF...
In power supllies lines and local loads decoupling some claim a bypass should not be less than 10% of the higher value ?
Same with a AC signal ? I setuped a XO around 100hz and at ears for the final I had both on the high pass and low pass to be precise till 0.1 uF . It suprised me when the starting value of the low pass is 100 uF and the high pass more than 270 uF...
That wee bit of sparkle in the highs, which I can get if I push the "tone" button on my amplifier and increase treble ever so slightly. This is the obvious approach I should be using, but I was trying to keep away from using the amplifier's tone circuit/controls!
Nothing bad with EQ pots here and more predictible result than using 0.0x uF in parrallel. The most obvious is to get rid of the Miflex as the ears of the poster decided.
This depends on how it affects the circuit. It may change the response. It may have an unwanted affect on the amplifier.
Usually these things don't present a problem at audio frequencies but some here are describing interesting effects. Of course measurements would want to be taken.
I know that tone controls are not liked much, however this can't be because of everything they do. The way they change or fix the response shouldn't be one of the bad things.