Buyout Plate Amp

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Re: It's been bought

LightwaveDude said:
Well, as a highschooler, I don't have unlimited funds, so I dove in and bought the plate amp and the Assassin 12. I figured if I don't buy them now for this price, I'll be paying a lot more later. I shouldn't complain about the price.... but 2 months worth of paychecks for what most people consider "super bargin" parts....

Unfortunatly I won't have money or time to build a proper encloser for a couple more months so I'm going to borrow a 1.25 cu ft car audio sealed box from a friend in the meantime.

I appreciated the help and comments, and while I know that it's not top of the line stuff, it should really add to my system as it stands right now: Pioneer VSX-515 ($179) amp and Pioneer S-G300B-K ($100 for the pair) speakers, so I'm not exaclty working with audiophile equipment as is. I'll post some pictures of everything when they arrive.

On a side note, it looks as though Ascendant Audio has very good shipping. $16 dollars shipping on the driver, and it was shipped within 2 hours of ordering (mid-day yesterday) and it should arrive early morning tomorrow. We'll see how well the package tomorrow.

Thanks for the help, guys.
Way to go. If you spread the cost of the sub and amp across ,say, ten(10) years what does the gear cost per year? $25 a year? Enjoy it now is my rule. The way to really optimise the sub is to build the correct box for it. A $15 sheet of MDF, some glue, and some help from a woodchuck buddy will get good results. I have a 250 w. model of the same amp and it probably puts out close to rated power. If boost is wanted, you can swap out come caps and add that in , on my model. I might try a few mods before I sell it.
 
Well I've got the plate amp... Finally get to play around with it at 10 tonight... had a track meet tonight. Unlike the UPS guy who dropped off the amp, the FedEx guy won't just leave the driver in our garage so I don't have the driver yet.:bawling: My mom will be picking it up tomorrow at work though so by tomorrow night I should have a subwoofer and an amp...... but no enclosure 😕 :bawling:. Since I don't have the money to buy the MDF for the enclosure for a little while (or the time to build it) I think I'm going to be borrowing a sealed box from a friend. Man, I can't wait to play around with everything!! I hooked it up to one of my mains real quick just to try the phase switch, level, and crossover settings and man... that thing pumped some bass from my speakers which usually sound pretty anemic, so if they can make these speakers pump some bass out, I can't wait to hear what it sounds like when mated with a real subwoofer in a properly tuned enclosure!

I think Westend is correct when he said for the price and for how long I'll own it... it's going to be worth every penny.

Man... I've got the jitters... I can't wait for tomorrow!!😎
 
davidlzimmer said:
LightwaveDude,

You won't be dissapointed!

Funny about how communities can be so different. At my house, both the Fedex and UPS guys leave the package in the kitchen and usually pour themselves a cup of coffee!

LOL 😀 .... Yeah, we actually know the UPS guy by name. He now stocks dog bones on his truck due to our german shepard who is now very smitten with him and his dog biscuts.

Unfortunatly, the FedEx guy needs the buyer (me) to sign for it.... however, being a highschooler, I will (technically) never be able to get the driver because in our neck of the woods (rural Iowa) the truck only comes once every couple of days a little after dinner. Luckily, my mom called him and explained it to him and she can sign for it at her workplace when he comes by there tomorrow, so I should have a driver (and pictures for all of you)!!
 
I ordered two I plan to use with two nine inch (well it is hard to say the overall driver is like 10 inch, the cone is like 8ish, with surround like nine inch) that I have had for awhile. They are actually originally sold for car audio use... However they incorperate the same big coil, dust cap, etc, like other dynaudio products. They are rated for 180wRMS but 150wRMS will do fine for this, that and I will probably never use 150wRMS any how...

Why? Well they might sound small.... They will be stereo subwoofers. However I should mention they have a -3db at 20hz in the box design I have made, just a simple front firing port, about three feet tall box.
 
Wow... I just got home and got the driver dropped into a crappy sealed box (or supposedly sealed.... a lot of screw holes from previous installs 😉 ) Anyway, I've got it up and running (filled in screw holes with other screws) and all I have to say is wow.

I had to go through and reset just about all my setting on my computer for audio. Remove WMP EQ... remove bass enhancing plugin, turn of creative bass boost.... Man, did my mains clear up a lot. I can drive them a lot further before 1) the woofers start to sound crappy becuase of reaching x-max 2) the receiver has more power (set my crossover at 80 Hz and 3) the Assassin can just get so much lower than my Pioneers. Just by adding in the 10 Hz difference between my Pioneer's cutoff of 50 Hz down to the 40 Hz region for most music added a ton to my listening experience.

I've heard friends who have subs setup on their computer systems but they're running for the most bass possible with SPL car subs. The Assassin is just so clear and defined compared to all the SPL subs that I've heard that are all high excursion like the Assassin is.

Now the real test will be how much I appreciate the difference in a week or so once I've gotten everything dialed in and I get use to the extra extension. (and once my ears recover from the 40 Hz test with my head next to the box to find the leaks :dead: )

Even with my VERY limited experience with audio equipment, I'd highly recommend the Assassin subwoofer for anybody looking for a low cost subwoofer driver. It will pump it out while keeping clear and defined from what I've experienced in the short couple of hours.

Also, the amp is perfectly capable of keeping up. I'm only running around 40% gain right now and as I listen I'm thinking I'm going to need to dial that down even a little bit more to integrate it just a little bit better with my mains. I think everybody's advice has been perfect when they say that the amp will keep up perfectly well especially when one considers the price that one pays for it.

Oh, I'm just so excited now I thought I'd come and share my experience so far.
 
I TOLD you ! 🙂 Allow a suggestion:

You can go to download.cnet.com and downlaod a program called Sigjenny. It's a signal generator that lets you adjust/chose a frequincy or sweep a range. You can also set it to any musical note.

Turn off your sub amp and put a signal into your mains only. Adjust down until you hear a definite drop out. Start at about 250 are 220 (low A) then go down.

Where ever your mains drop out. Set your sub to crossover just below that point. Then repeat with sub amp on. Set sub level to match mains level. Tweek to get smooth transient.

To be sceintific, should be done with mike and meters. But what the heck? It's your ears you want to please!
 
I bought one a few months ago. I think it works quite well. But the bass slam is not quite there. I should add two more 10K capacitors as you did.

The only reason I would like a copy of the circuit diagram is to check what I can do to improve or modify it. I have not decided what to do yet.
 
Buyout Plate Amp hums

Hi, Cripplechicken,

I was listening to my plate amp yesterday and found a slight hum without any input cable plugged in. The hum can only be heard a few inches or closer from the subwoofer. I am sure my amp is the same as yours. Did you observe the same issue with your amp? Will your mod help to reduce the hum?
 
How about upgrading the capacitors, main ones.... Then adding shorting capacitors to the diodes? Why not? This should cut down noise a lot. You can also short any capacitors on the power supply section with some Jantaz too....

My thoughts are eliminate noise and clean up the bass with some nicer capacitors. Also any resistors in the signal path could be replaced with 1% ones.... Hmm Yeah and just look for any capacitors in the signal path that could be upgraded too.

In fact the cheapest way to improve sound would be resistors and capacitors in the signal path. I have no idea how many there are, or are not... There is however a gain control right? Removing the gain control and replacing it with a resistor at what ever works best would probably be one of the biggest things you could do to improve sound. I would make this accesible from the back and just buy a set of 1% resistors I could swap in and out.
 
well, dang...
I just found this thread today by chance...
I ordered a pair, earlier today as well...(figured for this price, what the hell)

I have a MA audio sub Automotive dual 6ohm Voice coils, 800w...(Iwas thinking about using)...
But I might build me a pair of front towers (MTM-with a side firing sub)
and use these...

I am in an appartment, so i will never crank it...( i think/hope they will do well)

Lets see some pic's...
of your new sub set ups, as well as Modificaton instructions an what i need to order...

I have some old PC power supplies, Might take the cord assemble out and mod it to it...
 
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