How does that matter? Are you now going to claim that your 'living' somehow gives you golden ears, and the rest of us just don't know any better?
I am (was - got laid off in August, hence all the free time) an electrical service planner for a utility company here in So.Cal.
Prior to that I was an actual professional (meaning I got paid and it was my living, i.e. not amateur) session and touring musician for 15 years. That sort of work is sporadic, and so in between gigs, I worked as a recording engineer, as well as a live sound A1 and A2.
I would also be the first to say that I know next to nothing about all of these things, I am only as good as my last gig/show/design/etc. and I am ALWAYS learning more, and always 'sharpening my saw' so to speak. I most certainly do NOT have a golden ear... But then no one else here can claim that either, unless they are under about age 9.
I have a semi-decent list of achievements, but unlike yourself, I do not present any of them as reason to believe anything I say.
I am absolutely willing to change any opinion I have when presented with adequate reason. I WANT to believe, so show me something real!
I think I can follow along if you speak slowly, and not use big words. 😉
No one here disputes your superior credentials. No one here disputes that there ARE measurable differences between burn in and not.
The dispute is as simple as it is direct. - AUDIBLE difference.
Everything else is moot when considering that the only relevant application is listening to music.
Delusion. Yes of course! I like that choice of words. That's what's going on here. And I had to 'lol' when I read the words 'large differences'.
Well, thanks for the input. What bothers me, is WHY you really care about break-in? It would not really effect your work. The cables that you chose, will break-in, just from constant use. You are correct that in pro work, we usually don't want to do cable comparisons. It is just too difficult to get a 50' snake with at least 20 pairs of balanced, shielded wire, and do an A-B test. Especially, before and after break-in.
At home, around audiophiles, it is somewhat different.
We used to use Belden for our snakes, but that was 40 years ago. What do they use now? Canari? Mogami? We wired up our 'Wall of Sound' in 1973, with 14 Ga Belden twisted pairs. What do you prefer to use?
At home, around audiophiles, it is somewhat different.
We used to use Belden for our snakes, but that was 40 years ago. What do they use now? Canari? Mogami? We wired up our 'Wall of Sound' in 1973, with 14 Ga Belden twisted pairs. What do you prefer to use?
No, but I do get my insurance from Geico.
I have an associates in broadcast engineering, and 4 years worth of electrical training - although the company is not able to issue any sort of degree. The rest is school of hard knocks. I like to read...
P.S., Sy - For my part it's not heated or personal, I'm disputing John's (Et.Al.) claims because I didn't like being given false knowledge in these forums which contradicted what I believed (before I knew for certain), and I don't think others do either.
There are no hard feelings, nor am I angry or upset. I enjoy debating, I try to be civil, and I know everyone here will do the same as well.
Oh. I thought it was a given that we are all home listening audiophiles... I mean, it certainly isn't much of a living, at least not for me, LOL
I have a very high grade tube (yes tube believe it or not) headphone amp, and (SS stuff as well) and listening system. I've been through many components (and cables) in my quest for audio nirvana over the past 30 years since I was old enough to begin making those decisions myself.
Quote: 'Not all high-angle grain boundaries in thin-foil specimens migrate during observation in the electron microscope. For example, low-energy coherent-∑3 twin-boundaries are stable against boundary movement, and it has been demonstrated that ∑9 symmetric-tilt boundaries on {114} planes, and dissociated boundaries, are also stable against movement in electron microscope specimens(Forwood and Clarebrough 1985b, 1984).' P323 F.C. What do you think this means? SY, Oatmeal, Jan?
Nor is it necessary - the fidelity of big sound systems isn't nearly precise enough to hear tiny differences like those we speak of here.
I'm not a brand name guy... If the cable is constructed and if necessary shielded properly, it's good. They all make good cable, they all have fans and detractors. I honestly don't think slight differences in capacitance matters a whole lot in live sound. Recording - wise, unless it's a strong, active signal, passive stuff usually gets pre-amped, or fixed later even if there are cable issues.
My guitar cables are Mogami, if that matters. They are shielded in such a way that microphonic noise is virtually eliminated. I use all active electronics, and so high end roll-off is not an issue.
I buried this in all the walls of my first house but never used it. I lost all the photos of the pre-closeup of the walls. 🙂
Here's my New Year antidote for a woo woo hangover .. thanks to Tom Nousaine.
(True believers, get out that silver wire and make a cross) 😀
http://tinyurl.com/ykknx7j
http://tinyurl.com/yzljus5
http://tinyurl.com/yzywcag
Happy New Year!
ZAP
(True believers, get out that silver wire and make a cross) 😀
http://tinyurl.com/ykknx7j
http://tinyurl.com/yzljus5
http://tinyurl.com/yzywcag
Happy New Year!
ZAP
Sorry, SY, want to read the whole section? It makes more sense then, but you might help with the definitions.
I'm sure Canaire is good cable too, I just personally dislike their dang connectors for soldering!
For my low end speakers in my bass rig, where the system is of low impedance, I use Carol 14 ga 4 cond. cable. I use one length for (+) and another separate one for (-). - Yes, outdoor 3-phase extension cord, purchased at Home Depot! (DIY rules! LOL)
I keep the lengths under 10 feet, thereby making my resistance values low enough that sufficient damping factor is maintained in my system.
I meet people all the time who run tons of current through these itty bitty, long lengths of speaker wire, and then scratch their heads as to why it sounds boomy, distant, dark, whatever... Gotta do the calc's.
For my low end speakers in my bass rig, where the system is of low impedance, I use Carol 14 ga 4 cond. cable. I use one length for (+) and another separate one for (-). - Yes, outdoor 3-phase extension cord, purchased at Home Depot! (DIY rules! LOL)
I keep the lengths under 10 feet, thereby making my resistance values low enough that sufficient damping factor is maintained in my system.
I meet people all the time who run tons of current through these itty bitty, long lengths of speaker wire, and then scratch their heads as to why it sounds boomy, distant, dark, whatever... Gotta do the calc's.
Beats me, I told you, use LITTLE words! LOL
I'll guess it might say that there is no observable movement of molecules and stuff when using an E-Microscope???
I'll also guess it has more to do with metallurgy and alloy manufacture.
I'll bet you can't hear it though.
I'll guess it might say that there is no observable movement of molecules and stuff when using an E-Microscope???
I'll also guess it has more to do with metallurgy and alloy manufacture.
I'll bet you can't hear it though.
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You can find basic explanations of Miller indices in any basic solid state book. What that has to do with burning in wires is a mystery to me, unless John is finally going to present some actual experimental data showing changes in an audio cable that has been "broken in" versus the new condition. John, ball's in your court. Relevant experimental data, please.
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