paint
Most likely, not a mixture at all. It's probably an acrylic modified polyester-polyurethane copolymer alloy. Plastic alloys provide enhanced durability and often combine the best features of both polymers in one system.
IOW, it makes the painted finish behave more like a plastic surface than a classic painted surface.
John L.
markus76 said:Thanks! Didn't find their "Industrial Brands" website on Google. So it seems they mix acrylic and polyurethane. Wondering what the benefit of that might be?
Can the acrylic paint you use be sanded or does it gum up?
Most likely, not a mixture at all. It's probably an acrylic modified polyester-polyurethane copolymer alloy. Plastic alloys provide enhanced durability and often combine the best features of both polymers in one system.
IOW, it makes the painted finish behave more like a plastic surface than a classic painted surface.
John L.
Re: paint
It acts more like a plastic surface and you have to be careful. It can takes days for an acrylic clear-coat to dry before it can be polished. But when dry it polishes very well as long as the compounds DON't contain petroleum distilates, because these will soften the surface and then it tears and does all kinds of bad things.
auplater said:
IOW, it makes the painted finish behave more like a plastic surface than a classic painted surface.
John L.
It acts more like a plastic surface and you have to be careful. It can takes days for an acrylic clear-coat to dry before it can be polished. But when dry it polishes very well as long as the compounds DON't contain petroleum distilates, because these will soften the surface and then it tears and does all kinds of bad things.
gedlee said:
How is the Acrylic Hardener listed on that page used?
Re: Re: paint
3M makes a great 12" lambswool buff I've used with great success to produce a mirror finish on acrylic clearcoat automotive work. Not cheap, but it makes all the difference in the world, after sanding down to 1500 - 1800 to remove the final orangepeel.
John L.
gedlee said:
It acts more like a plastic surface and you have to be careful. It can takes days for an acrylic clear-coat to dry before it can be polished. But when dry it polishes very well as long as the compounds DON't contain petroleum distilates, because these will soften the surface and then it tears and does all kinds of bad things.
3M makes a great 12" lambswool buff I've used with great success to produce a mirror finish on acrylic clearcoat automotive work. Not cheap, but it makes all the difference in the world, after sanding down to 1500 - 1800 to remove the final orangepeel.
John L.
Re: Re: Re: paint
You by double sided lambs wool duff pads these are better than
the tie on lambs wool pads .
Its always better to finish of with a foam buff pad with a finer cutting compound then a soft foam pad with a swirl remover
followed by a hand polish .
Cheers
Hello auplater .auplater said:
3M makes a great 12" lambswool buff I've used with great success to produce a mirror finish on acrylic clearcoat automotive work. Not cheap, but it makes all the difference in the world, after sanding down to 1500 - 1800 to remove the final orangepeel.
John L.
You by double sided lambs wool duff pads these are better than
the tie on lambs wool pads .
Its always better to finish of with a foam buff pad with a finer cutting compound then a soft foam pad with a swirl remover
followed by a hand polish .
Cheers
Fini
Below is my finished Nathan10
Below is my finished Nathan10
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Wow
Yep, looks like the Ferarri of speakers to me.
I know they perform like one as well

The MDF looks just as glossy your fiberglass Summa's. Nice work!
Yep, looks like the Ferarri of speakers to me.

I know they perform like one as well




The MDF looks just as glossy your fiberglass Summa's. Nice work!
Looks amazing. The premium you charge for assembly looks worth it and then some to me.
They would look even better in British Racing Green or a nice midnight blue for my tastes, though. 🙂
Maybe someday...
They would look even better in British Racing Green or a nice midnight blue for my tastes, though. 🙂
Maybe someday...
Hi, the frame of midbass driver seems slightly recessed from the surface of front baffle. Is it supposed to be flush?
I am not sure about "mid bass" since it goes down to about 80-90 Hz, but yes, it is a bit recessed. I am looking into getting some sort of molding to put around the "woofer" to hide the screws and gasket and make this weak point look a little better. I have always been concerned with the appearance here and it is something that I'm going to look to correcting in the future - somthing that just presses into the groove and finishes off the look. A cheap part to make, but expensive to tool.
Some plastic ring like this might work:
http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/colin-5687/photo?pid=3263&prev=3262&next=3264
(the one on the left)
http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/colin-5687/photo?pid=3263&prev=3262&next=3264
(the one on the left)
As I said, its not at all hard to conceive and design, but the tool would be expensive and the likelyhood of there existing a part that exactly fits the situation is just about zero. It could be cast in poly, and a flexible poly would fit the bill for a press fit, but its a complex tool. It could be injection molded, it could be ... Well you get the picture.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Is it painted at all or is this an optical illusion?
Hi Earl, how about extruded rubber seals as used for car seals etc? Can be cut to length, flexible enough to be formed into a circle and ends glued. Less tooling.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
markus76 said:
Is it painted at all or is this an optical illusion?
Its wax. The flash caught it, I hardly noticed until I saw the photo. It can be cleaned up, best would be to paint the gap black. As I said, this gap is the weak spot in the whole appearance.
I was sure that you would catch it. I had a bet with myself - I won.
mikey_audiogeek said:Hi Earl, how about extruded rubber seals as used for car seals etc? Can be cut to length, flexible enough to be formed into a circle and ends glued. Less tooling.
Cheers,
Mike
I've looked into commonly available seals and none is exactly the right size and fit. The part, to look right has to be molded to fit very closely to the dimensions as they exist.
Originally posted by gedlee I was sure that you would catch it. I had a bet with myself - I won.
Congratulations - but that was easily predictable. Furthermore you were cheating by posting that particular picture 😉
Earl
If the recess is such an issue, why make it so deep?
Surely a shallower recess would be a better look keeping the driver flush with the baffle, or to completely cover the woofer surround, what about rear mounting?
Nick.
(Still saving, and considering prebuilt, dammnit, thats even more money)
If the recess is such an issue, why make it so deep?
Surely a shallower recess would be a better look keeping the driver flush with the baffle, or to completely cover the woofer surround, what about rear mounting?
Nick.
(Still saving, and considering prebuilt, dammnit, thats even more money)
The woofer should be flush mounted. But the rim of the woofer is about 5/8" and the boards for the baffle come in 1/2" or 3/4". With the rim just above the baffle there is no chance for a well fit rim. On the other hand the 3/4" thickness gives a nice depth for the eventual fit of this rim. Once this decision is made, it is fixed in stone, or should I say tooling, because the tools are fit to the baffle thickness. Can't change the baffle unless I change the tools and thats expensive.
Earl,
Thanks for the clarification, sorry for the silly suggestions (which I have stupidly only just thought you've probably already considered and rejected)
Tooling is a real pig i agree with you. If people factored all the new tools into every DIY project it would soon make people realise buying prebuilt is probably cheaper.
Nick.
Thanks for the clarification, sorry for the silly suggestions (which I have stupidly only just thought you've probably already considered and rejected)
Tooling is a real pig i agree with you. If people factored all the new tools into every DIY project it would soon make people realise buying prebuilt is probably cheaper.
Nick.
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