It's nice to see a company finally using waveguides in the marketplace.
From: http://4sptech.com/version2/horn.html
"Rather, we employ and take advantage of "Waveguide" technology to achieve the high degree of accuracy and performance of our products."
...
"So…that's where the irritating "honk" and harshness comes from. The higher the efficiency and consequently the compression ratio, the sooner the onset of air non-linearity and distortion. Often the chosen compression ratio is high enough that even quite low drive levels produce distortion. That's why many horns produce that familiar, irritating "horn sound" at just about any level. That is also why audiophiles often shun any use of them."
From: http://4sptech.com/version2/horn.html
"Rather, we employ and take advantage of "Waveguide" technology to achieve the high degree of accuracy and performance of our products."
...
"So…that's where the irritating "honk" and harshness comes from. The higher the efficiency and consequently the compression ratio, the sooner the onset of air non-linearity and distortion. Often the chosen compression ratio is high enough that even quite low drive levels produce distortion. That's why many horns produce that familiar, irritating "horn sound" at just about any level. That is also why audiophiles often shun any use of them."
Oh, and with regards to their "Waveguide" seen here: http://4sptech.com/version2/wave.html
I certainly don't see any seams blending into the front baffle. I would say they machine the entire front baffle from laminated boards. For some reason they choose to put the glue line just off-center, though it looks to be in alternating layers.
I certainly don't see any seams blending into the front baffle. I would say they machine the entire front baffle from laminated boards. For some reason they choose to put the glue line just off-center, though it looks to be in alternating layers.
After sanding (400 grid) the 4th coat of sanding sealer, here's what it looks like after rolling on the 1st coat of paint:
The paint was a little bit too thick for my taste so I mixed it with 50 ml water. Still a little bit too fast drying but I think I'll get the finish I'm looking for with 2 more coats.
Best, Markus
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The paint was a little bit too thick for my taste so I mixed it with 50 ml water. Still a little bit too fast drying but I think I'll get the finish I'm looking for with 2 more coats.
Best, Markus
Ok I'm not the expert here, but is water the best thing to thin the paint with? What about one of the products made for stretching paint, or paint thinner for that matter. Is this water based paint? Do water based paints thin best with just water? I mean, I guess that makes sense, but I've never really thought about it either.
I'm surprised how nice that looks for being rolled on. Looks like it will be pretty nice in the end.
I'm surprised how nice that looks for being rolled on. Looks like it will be pretty nice in the end.
In this case? It simply would be too thin to be called "paint" any longer 
By the way, 2nd coat (after sanding with 400 grid):
By the way, 2nd coat (after sanding with 400 grid):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hello Markus,
They really look quite good now, I did not expect that considering the looks of the raw material. You did a very good job on these!
Did you get a crossover with your kit? I don't know what the quality of the components is, but in my experience is helps to chose a very high quality capacitor in series with the HF-device (B&C driver). For example Janzen makes very nice stuff, or also take a look at Mundorf. I don't know if you can get this at your place but I have also good experience with Audyn Plus/Reference capacitors. (netherlands)
Best regards,
Walt
They really look quite good now, I did not expect that considering the looks of the raw material. You did a very good job on these!
Did you get a crossover with your kit? I don't know what the quality of the components is, but in my experience is helps to chose a very high quality capacitor in series with the HF-device (B&C driver). For example Janzen makes very nice stuff, or also take a look at Mundorf. I don't know if you can get this at your place but I have also good experience with Audyn Plus/Reference capacitors. (netherlands)
Best regards,
Walt
Sure it will but why do you want that? The Nathan is only part of a bigger concept that requires multiple subs to smooth bass frequency response.
Yes, the Nathan comes with its own crossover exactly matching the B&C drivers used. You have to assembly it yourself. I'll document that next week.
I've never heard any difference between different crossover parts unless they didn't match their values or were damaged.
The key to really good sound lies in your room matching the speakers. Forget about cables, caps & co.
Best, Markus
Don't forget that with any stereo or multichannel recording the original is created in the mixing room. I would never claim to know what an audio engineer heard while mixing a recording.
Furthermore these recordings are not capable of re-creating the soundfield at the location of a performance (only wave field synthesis is capable of providing that). Stereophony has its very own features. So your only chance is to provide a playback system and room acoustic that is capable of making those features work.
Best, Markus
Small satelite speakers combined with one or more subs is one of the best solutions to coherent reproduction.
They sure don't look "cool" by some people standards but one just has to listen to the combination to realize what it is about.
Just by themselves, yes, they lack the body of low frequency, and that is part of the design: to relieve the satelite speakers from the strain of LF.
They sure don't look "cool" by some people standards but one just has to listen to the combination to realize what it is about.
Just by themselves, yes, they lack the body of low frequency, and that is part of the design: to relieve the satelite speakers from the strain of LF.
Markus
Your pictures and journey with the nathans have been fantastic, thank you.
Could you possibly include close-up pictures of your paintwork, as it stands and once finished so we can see the level of finish you are achieving with the rollers (just like you did with the sanding sealer)
thank you for this thread
Nick.
Your pictures and journey with the nathans have been fantastic, thank you.
Could you possibly include close-up pictures of your paintwork, as it stands and once finished so we can see the level of finish you are achieving with the rollers (just like you did with the sanding sealer)
thank you for this thread
Nick.
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