They look great! I'm impressed. Mine are seemingly taking forever to finish, and are similar to yours in the modular approach.
Thanks for your veneering tips. After reading them, I'm feeling brave enough to give veneering a try. Normally I paint my mdf. Did you use raw veneer or backed veneer? Raw veneer is a lot cheaper, but apparently very difficult to work with.
Thanks for your veneering tips. After reading them, I'm feeling brave enough to give veneering a try. Normally I paint my mdf. Did you use raw veneer or backed veneer? Raw veneer is a lot cheaper, but apparently very difficult to work with.
stuff....
There was no backing on the veneer at all. Its not that difficult to work with, if anything I would say its easier than the backed iron on stuff. Just make sure you use "instant contact" glue and wait 10 minutes before you stick them together.
I am very very pleased with the sound. Its exactly what I wanted in terms of a clean uncoloured sound. The focal range are known for their "monitor" sound and these certainly are like that. The best thing I have found is that because the boxes are very heavy (due to the lead lining and laminate pannels) when I turn up the volume the bass is only really audible in the room where the speakers are, ie it doesnt "boom" downstairs or in any of the other rooms.
All in all I am very pleased (and she likes the look of them as well) - so 10/10 !
Goldenboy said:
There was no backing on the veneer at all. Its not that difficult to work with, if anything I would say its easier than the backed iron on stuff. Just make sure you use "instant contact" glue and wait 10 minutes before you stick them together.
Jay said:
I am very very pleased with the sound. Its exactly what I wanted in terms of a clean uncoloured sound. The focal range are known for their "monitor" sound and these certainly are like that. The best thing I have found is that because the boxes are very heavy (due to the lead lining and laminate pannels) when I turn up the volume the bass is only really audible in the room where the speakers are, ie it doesnt "boom" downstairs or in any of the other rooms.
All in all I am very pleased (and she likes the look of them as well) - so 10/10 !
Disabled Account
Joined 2003
Very impressive.
But my goodness that is one quick job! Congratulations! Hope you enjoy your new speakers.
Now to pick your brain:
How you you prevent bubbling with your veneering technque? I would like to try this sometime but it seems like a hit or miss. Either you get it 100% flat or dont. If you don't, can you fix it?
PS. Photos of my speakers won't reveal bubbling. But that doesn't mean they're 100% flat
But my goodness that is one quick job! Congratulations! Hope you enjoy your new speakers.
Now to pick your brain:
How you you prevent bubbling with your veneering technque? I would like to try this sometime but it seems like a hit or miss. Either you get it 100% flat or dont. If you don't, can you fix it?
PS. Photos of my speakers won't reveal bubbling. But that doesn't mean they're 100% flat
bubbles..
I didnt have any problems providing you follow these rules:
1) Make sure you use contact glue
2) Leave it to dry the correct amount of time before touching the two sides together
3) Use a woodern hand roller to get it as flat as possible as you stick the two sides together
4) Use a large hard flat material once they have been applied to ensure they are kept together - I also used a very heavy object (concrete bird table) on the top to keep them flat.
tktran said:Now to pick your brain:
How you you prevent bubbling with your veneering technque? I would like to try this sometime but it seems like a hit or miss. Either you get it 100% flat or dont. If you don't, can you fix it?
PS. Photos of my speakers won't reveal bubbling. But that doesn't mean they're 100% flat
I didnt have any problems providing you follow these rules:
1) Make sure you use contact glue
2) Leave it to dry the correct amount of time before touching the two sides together
3) Use a woodern hand roller to get it as flat as possible as you stick the two sides together
4) Use a large hard flat material once they have been applied to ensure they are kept together - I also used a very heavy object (concrete bird table) on the top to keep them flat.
Banned
Joined 2002
JasonL said:
Did you read the first post? It goes over the driver costs and where he got them. Parts Express carries the drivers as well except for the AudioM 6WM, which Zalytron sells for $155.
As for the tweeter height, it look pretty standard to me at ear level, but appears low, since the speaker is quite wide and tall.
--
Brian
Banned
Joined 2002
It would look more normal with just one tweeter between the mids and sound a lot better too. Almost all I've read says one tweeter is the way to go- Otherwise all kinds of interference!
Look at the JM lab Focal speakers- always one tweeter even on the Grande Utopia
i know you are just having fun with the mono photo, but
with your efficient construction abilility, I wouldn't be surprised
if you end up eventually making 2 additional bass and mid boxes
Hey, you already have the extra tweeter box!
Also later, you could make a few more modules and try surround sound with the original configuration
Look at the JM lab Focal speakers- always one tweeter even on the Grande Utopia
i know you are just having fun with the mono photo, but
with your efficient construction abilility, I wouldn't be surprised
if you end up eventually making 2 additional bass and mid boxes
Hey, you already have the extra tweeter box!
Also later, you could make a few more modules and try surround sound with the original configuration
BrianGT said:
JasonL said:
Seth Smith said:
Variac said:It would look more normal with just one tweeter between the mids and sound a lot better too. Almost all I've read says one tweeter is the way to go- Otherwise all kinds of interference!
Can't you tell he's just messing around with a stereo pair
of speakers and has no intention of using them like that ?
sreten.Asdonk said:
I have also used the tc120td5 instead of the tc90td5 driver but for starters I have kept the cross over exactly the same.
The trebble is slightly too bright due to the 120 being more sensitive than the 90 model so I have just turned down the trebble on the amp for now.
I would be very interested to know what the changes would be to the original Triga crossover design in the Hobby HiFi magazine.
thanks!!
Mark.Carline@btinternet.com
Asdonk said:
ok great - Could you post up on here a GIF image or somthing showing what you have done - thanks!
Mark.Carline@btinternet.com
I have a set of T120 I's in my custom cabinets and love them but honestly, they do not handle that much power (15 wRMS). Have you come across anyting that is as high in sensitivity and sound as sweet as the 120 TI? Problem with specs is that they really don't tell you about the driver and the only way to tell how they sound is to buy them and try them......
Andy F
Andy F
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