Building Crossovers

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Right now I'm in the process of building my crossovers...but I'm having some troubles.

Will it really matter what size wire I have running to the drivers? The two drivers are the Seas P16REX and 25TAC/D. I have 12 gauge wire now, but soldering together three pieces of it is going to be a pain. Would using 16 for the tweet and 14 for the mid be ok?. This would allow me to know which one is which too. The wire coming into the crossover will still be the 12 gauge.

Can anyone give me some helpful suggestions in general to building crossovers? This is my first time building these (have soldered before) things, so I want them to be good.

Thanks

Jeremy
 
baby_huey0 said:
Would using 16 for the tweet and 14 for the mid be ok?. This would allow me to know which one is which too. The wire coming into the crossover will still be the 12 gauge.



This would be perfectly fine. I'm using piece of MDF to mount all parts and hot glue to attatch them to the board and ea other if necessary. Use components leads as possible. Here's some inspiration: http://www.hifi-notes.com/sonusfaberamatifabrikage-nl.htm
 
hot-melt glue is easy, but

it will keep stuff from rattling around if you mount it on the bottom of the speaker cabinet. If you are going to mount on a wall I would suggest epoxy --

Parts Express sells boards for passive xovr's with nice heavy traces, so does Madisound.

I am thinking of having some boards burned for generic 2 and 3 way actives, however.
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

I'm using a piece of 1/4 peg board for them and using zip ties to get the larger parts (inductors and caps) down. I'm gonna use hot glue to keep the resisters and caps from not moving around.

Again, Thanks

Jeremy
 
I used hot glue to secure a capacitor to the inside
cabinent of my Straight 8. After close to 2 years the
capacitor failed... and it seemed like the glue kind
of ate away at the outer lining of the cap... anyone
else ever have this experience/problem?

The replacement was secured with tie wraps
 
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