I'm designing a custom desk for myself and want to integrate the speaker design into the desk. I'm coming at the box design backwards. I have the shape in mind already and am hoping that it sounds decent.
The speakers I'm going with from solid reviews I've seen and the aesthetics are Markaudio Pluvia 7.2 HD. Based on the current dimensions of my design I'm at about 10L of space. I haven't cut anything yet so I can still make changes. One option would be to have the speaker box keep the same width and length (5"x4") but continue straight down for another foot or so and cut through this area.
This is the back of the desk and that shelf was just going to be used for wire management. The box will be fully enclosed just left the covers off so you can see the design.
Is the shape of this chamber going to cause any issues with sound? I was going to go with 1/2" plywood for this part.
The speakers I'm going with from solid reviews I've seen and the aesthetics are Markaudio Pluvia 7.2 HD. Based on the current dimensions of my design I'm at about 10L of space. I haven't cut anything yet so I can still make changes. One option would be to have the speaker box keep the same width and length (5"x4") but continue straight down for another foot or so and cut through this area.
This is the back of the desk and that shelf was just going to be used for wire management. The box will be fully enclosed just left the covers off so you can see the design.
Is the shape of this chamber going to cause any issues with sound? I was going to go with 1/2" plywood for this part.
For near field listening at a computer could work.
Just expect the normal behavior of such a small baffle.
The baffle step would be large step at a high frequency.
Not my cup of tea. But tiny bookshelf designs are common.
Might as well make them moveable and more straight forward.
Stacked ply designs like this use a lot of unneeded material.
Curved shape is more aesthetic than anything. Diffraction/ Baffle step
be rather unwanted in my opinion.
Just expect the normal behavior of such a small baffle.
The baffle step would be large step at a high frequency.
Not my cup of tea. But tiny bookshelf designs are common.
Might as well make them moveable and more straight forward.
Stacked ply designs like this use a lot of unneeded material.
Curved shape is more aesthetic than anything. Diffraction/ Baffle step
be rather unwanted in my opinion.
I've sketched a special item called "holder". It's made of steel. the width of the base isn't shown and it's a 10 cm U-profile
The speaker box is a generical "bowl".
Not the perfection in desktop environment but some brass and old '800 / steelpunk might be added. Ah ah
Not the perfection in terms of sound projection in stereo but I think the distance from the desk ( first big arror ) and isolation of the source ( in aerodynamics ) since it has to perceived as a distinct one and not confused with the desk ( singing all along).
The speaker box is a generical "bowl".
Not the perfection in desktop environment but some brass and old '800 / steelpunk might be added. Ah ah
Not the perfection in terms of sound projection in stereo but I think the distance from the desk ( first big arror ) and isolation of the source ( in aerodynamics ) since it has to perceived as a distinct one and not confused with the desk ( singing all along).
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I recently made some sealed Blanda speakers (IKEA bowls) using the pluvia 7.2hd, which are around 8/9 litres. You can look at them here if you're interested - https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...nda-project-pluvia-7-2hd.407882/#post-7586987
If you go sealed you will need a sub. Mine are sealed and sound good with a sub, I couldn't listen to them without.
Size wise, 10l sounds about right, you could probably go vented or sealed, I'd suggest vented if not using a sub.
I would also suggest angling the drivers inwards and upwards if you can, otherwise you're going to be really far off axis, reducing your top end a lot.
Depending on how wide your desk is, you may want to try putting the speakers nearer to the edges to increase your potential soundstage. Depends how wide it is and how far you sit back from them. As they are fixed in position, you want to do your best to get the positioning as good as possible. So I'd recommend wider apart, angled up toward your ears, and also toed in a little but not too much. Mine are only toed in a few degrees, they have a boost in the treble to allow you to listen off axis. If you listen straight on axis, they'd probably be a bit too trebly (unless you're into that).
As far as I know, curved shapes like yours are usually a benefit
If you go sealed you will need a sub. Mine are sealed and sound good with a sub, I couldn't listen to them without.
Size wise, 10l sounds about right, you could probably go vented or sealed, I'd suggest vented if not using a sub.
I would also suggest angling the drivers inwards and upwards if you can, otherwise you're going to be really far off axis, reducing your top end a lot.
Depending on how wide your desk is, you may want to try putting the speakers nearer to the edges to increase your potential soundstage. Depends how wide it is and how far you sit back from them. As they are fixed in position, you want to do your best to get the positioning as good as possible. So I'd recommend wider apart, angled up toward your ears, and also toed in a little but not too much. Mine are only toed in a few degrees, they have a boost in the treble to allow you to listen off axis. If you listen straight on axis, they'd probably be a bit too trebly (unless you're into that).
As far as I know, curved shapes like yours are usually a benefit
9-11 litres is about right for a P7HD reflex… the shape won’t be an issue.
As pico suggests driver firing into the flat surface of the desk could be an issue.
Are they fixed or can you adjust their position?
dave
As pico suggests driver firing into the flat surface of the desk could be an issue.
Are they fixed or can you adjust their position?
dave
I agree with wchang. I don't want to put your idea down but I think it would be a whole lot better if the speakers were just separate. Positioning is so important, you may find the speakers are too far back and you want to pull them forward a bit but can't. Just don't want you to finish the desk and be disappointed with the sound!
The reflection off the desk will probably degrade the sound a little too, which is why it's good to have them a bit higher up
The reflection off the desk will probably degrade the sound a little too, which is why it's good to have them a bit higher up
Done right, a soundstage will float mid air well beyond the desk/wall, but it's impossible to predict what relative positioning (and reflections etc.) will yield the results you liked best.
Stereo imaging is a very odd thing. Take this silly experiment/arrangement -- it projected an uncanny stage up and well back of three near flat drivers. (I'm still quite puzzled.)
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/full-range-speaker-photo-gallery.65061/post-7605036
(Also see the pair of 8" bicone over steel can.)
Stereo imaging is a very odd thing. Take this silly experiment/arrangement -- it projected an uncanny stage up and well back of three near flat drivers. (I'm still quite puzzled.)
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/full-range-speaker-photo-gallery.65061/post-7605036
(Also see the pair of 8" bicone over steel can.)
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Exactly!
the desk surface acts as a acoustic mirror. You get a second vitrual sound source "below" the desk. That will create heavy combing if your ears are not perfectly aligned to the mirror plane (desk surface).
You could take advantage of higher directivity of full range drivers and tilt them backwards to aim at the ears. That would reduce the "mirror" sound source effect.