Hi everyone,
This is my first foray into building a boombox with zero experience in electronics. The intended use is 90% home use and the occasional trip outdoors. I am aware of the boominator thread but I would like to build something a little more basic but before I do I need some help with a few questions I have
The components for this project I'm thinking of using are:
2x P.Audio HP-10W
2x P.Audio PHT-407N
1x Lepy LP-2020A Amp
2x 7.2A SLA Battery
1x Logitech Bluetooth Audio Adapter
First question I have is on wiring up the speakers and the tweeters. I see that the tweeters come with a cap and resistor. Can someone point me to a diagram or explain how I would go about connecting them?
Second question I have is to do with power. If I understand correctly I need to wire the 2 batteries in parallel to double the capacity but maintain the same voltage output which I do this by connecting the positive to positive and negative to negative? If this is correct how would I then connect the Lepy Amp and the Bluetooth to the battery as well as be able to charge them?
And finally are my chosen components suitable or do I need to look at getting something else for this project?
Many thanks 🙂
This is my first foray into building a boombox with zero experience in electronics. The intended use is 90% home use and the occasional trip outdoors. I am aware of the boominator thread but I would like to build something a little more basic but before I do I need some help with a few questions I have
The components for this project I'm thinking of using are:
2x P.Audio HP-10W
2x P.Audio PHT-407N
1x Lepy LP-2020A Amp
2x 7.2A SLA Battery
1x Logitech Bluetooth Audio Adapter
First question I have is on wiring up the speakers and the tweeters. I see that the tweeters come with a cap and resistor. Can someone point me to a diagram or explain how I would go about connecting them?
Second question I have is to do with power. If I understand correctly I need to wire the 2 batteries in parallel to double the capacity but maintain the same voltage output which I do this by connecting the positive to positive and negative to negative? If this is correct how would I then connect the Lepy Amp and the Bluetooth to the battery as well as be able to charge them?
And finally are my chosen components suitable or do I need to look at getting something else for this project?
Many thanks 🙂
what value is the cap? is that a piezo tweeter? the cap is connected in series to a tweeter to act as a high pass filter, the resistor is to tame the response and stop the amp from going into high frequency oscillations from a purely capacitative load, also in series.
The Lepai isn't the greatest implementation of the 2020, check out TPA3116 boards they are dirt cheap sound great and are more efficient and let you connect your batteries in series for 24V and more oompf. You can get boards with integrated bluetooth, that will avoid the noise issue that you may well get running the amp and a bluetooth module from the same powersupply.
and I would consider making two boxes instead of one boombox, sure they are all the rage now, but you are missing out on the stereo field. It may seem more convenient having everything in one box, until you have to pick it up and carry it around, it will be cumbersome and freaking heavy. IMO.
The Lepai isn't the greatest implementation of the 2020, check out TPA3116 boards they are dirt cheap sound great and are more efficient and let you connect your batteries in series for 24V and more oompf. You can get boards with integrated bluetooth, that will avoid the noise issue that you may well get running the amp and a bluetooth module from the same powersupply.
and I would consider making two boxes instead of one boombox, sure they are all the rage now, but you are missing out on the stereo field. It may seem more convenient having everything in one box, until you have to pick it up and carry it around, it will be cumbersome and freaking heavy. IMO.
Hi,
Spend your money on a nice decent indoor system, not a heap of crap that
might make sense 10% of the time outdoors, but indoors is just abominable.
rgds, sreten.
Spend your money on a nice decent indoor system, not a heap of crap that
might make sense 10% of the time outdoors, but indoors is just abominable.
rgds, sreten.
yeah I would agree with that.
A 10" in a two way leaves a big hole in the middle especially off axes, it's a combination for efficiency and brute power not finesse.
So are you guys suggesting to build a 3 way speaker system? Can I still achieve this using the P.Audio speakers/tweeters I mention above, add a smaller 6" mid speaker and go with the suggested TPA3116 amp or would I look at other components?
No, never a three way, unless you have an audience of >50, and then you go active anyway.
IMO.
Others may disagree, but I have never been excited by a speaker that had a 2nd or more order three way crossover, mangling the sound through 6 or more components seems to suck the life out of recordings.
There is good reason why so many people fawn over full range speakers, it's simply the easiest and cheapest way to get really good sound, even with compromising the very highs and the very lows, in the end speaker design is purely a game of compromise.
Anyway, a 6"with a dome tweeter will be nice inside and outside.
If you can stretch your budget it is worthwhile considering a pro style driver in the 6" to 8" size range with a neodymium magnet
like this for example
loud and light
Eminence AlphaLite 6A speaker. The Eminence AlphaLite 6A is a 6" 8 ohm speaker. AlphaLite-6A is a 100 watt RMS 6.5" lightweight mid-bass speaker.
My favorites at the moment are full range drivers, in small arrays, be it 2, 3 or even 4 drivers, the nice thing about doubling up on drivers is that you get greater efficiency and more power out of your amp (when you're reducing the impedance if you wire in parallel)
Also check out this amp that came up just yesterday
tpa3118 with bluetooth, for a price that makes your head spin
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ing-them-everything-comes-26.html#post4818053
IMO.
Others may disagree, but I have never been excited by a speaker that had a 2nd or more order three way crossover, mangling the sound through 6 or more components seems to suck the life out of recordings.
There is good reason why so many people fawn over full range speakers, it's simply the easiest and cheapest way to get really good sound, even with compromising the very highs and the very lows, in the end speaker design is purely a game of compromise.
Anyway, a 6"with a dome tweeter will be nice inside and outside.
If you can stretch your budget it is worthwhile considering a pro style driver in the 6" to 8" size range with a neodymium magnet
like this for example
loud and light
Eminence AlphaLite 6A speaker. The Eminence AlphaLite 6A is a 6" 8 ohm speaker. AlphaLite-6A is a 100 watt RMS 6.5" lightweight mid-bass speaker.
My favorites at the moment are full range drivers, in small arrays, be it 2, 3 or even 4 drivers, the nice thing about doubling up on drivers is that you get greater efficiency and more power out of your amp (when you're reducing the impedance if you wire in parallel)
Also check out this amp that came up just yesterday
tpa3118 with bluetooth, for a price that makes your head spin
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...ing-them-everything-comes-26.html#post4818053
Thanks Horst.
Best part of yesterday morning I've been researching speaker building and came across "full range speakers" topic which made me think this might be the way to go since I decided to take onboard your suggestion of making two speakers. So I started looking at part express and came across this Dayton Audio PS180 speaker which I thought might be suitable.
Do you know how the AlphaLite 6A stack up against the Dayton or vice versa? Would you still pair either option with a tweeter or just the speaker, possibly two in array per box?
Best part of yesterday morning I've been researching speaker building and came across "full range speakers" topic which made me think this might be the way to go since I decided to take onboard your suggestion of making two speakers. So I started looking at part express and came across this Dayton Audio PS180 speaker which I thought might be suitable.
Do you know how the AlphaLite 6A stack up against the Dayton or vice versa? Would you still pair either option with a tweeter or just the speaker, possibly two in array per box?
Well it's good to see that you have a decent budget here, I am not familiar with that Dayton, but from the spec sheet, it looks pretty good, now the fact that it has a whizzer cone normally would make me run the other way, and indeed looking at the frequency plot, it does get pretty ragged after 3kHz
however what happens below that looks like magic, so this is a great example of the compromise machine working hard, it's very efficient, low Fs, flat midrange response, but the treble is questionable, so one could be tempted to make it a two way. But I wouldn't, there's probably enough capability there that actually making it better would be a tricky or only marginally successful endeavor. And you couldn't beat the simplicity of banging this in a box without any other components, I bet it would sound really delightful.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
however what happens below that looks like magic, so this is a great example of the compromise machine working hard, it's very efficient, low Fs, flat midrange response, but the treble is questionable, so one could be tempted to make it a two way. But I wouldn't, there's probably enough capability there that actually making it better would be a tricky or only marginally successful endeavor. And you couldn't beat the simplicity of banging this in a box without any other components, I bet it would sound really delightful.
IMO if you're making 2 speakers one of the more documented is the Tabaq in the fullrange sub-forum. Some guy has even taken them out to the beach or to parties.
EDIT: Also take a trip through the WIBAQ thread. 😀
J.
EDIT: Also take a trip through the WIBAQ thread. 😀
J.
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This isn't a terrible combo. The little P-Audio tweeter goes low enough to cross with the 10" woofer. The efficiencies are quite loud (96/100dB) for a low voltage system. Dispersion is fairly directional, but not unusable though.
With a proper crossover (i.e. several components), they would be fine.
I would consider a booster or two batteries to get 24V. 12V is not enough for undistorted loudness even with very efficient speakers like those originally selected.
Hi-fi type transducers at 90dB or less will sound good on 12V, but will not go loud at all.
With a proper crossover (i.e. several components), they would be fine.
I would consider a booster or two batteries to get 24V. 12V is not enough for undistorted loudness even with very efficient speakers like those originally selected.
Hi-fi type transducers at 90dB or less will sound good on 12V, but will not go loud at all.
Pretty sure that tweeter is a piezo (?) even though it's claiming to contain neodymium, (I haven't seen a number for Fs, which is always a red flag) so not going to bother anyone below 2.5k KHz with much pleasure. And that's really too high for a 10".
Okay I'm not going to say it's going to be unlistenable, just that you can do better without going crazy.
Thanks for the info guys. As a noob in this field it's quiet a task to wrap your head around all the number specs on speakers, what goes well with what etc 🙂
Anyway I'm going to give the Dayton Full Range a go, however, can you guys tell me is it worth going for the Dayton 8" driver or stick with the Dayton 6 1/2" driver?
From what I can tell the lower Fs of the 8" driver means I will get a better bass response? which would be nice given I do like bass in some circumstances. In saying that I could always build a separate woofer?
Anyway I'm going to give the Dayton Full Range a go, however, can you guys tell me is it worth going for the Dayton 8" driver or stick with the Dayton 6 1/2" driver?
From what I can tell the lower Fs of the 8" driver means I will get a better bass response? which would be nice given I do like bass in some circumstances. In saying that I could always build a separate woofer?
Bass will be better from the 8", but you will have to put it in a a much larger box to get to it. The reviews sound pretty good though I think it would be a reasonable gamble getting those.
I wouldn't bother with a separate sub, it's too easy to end up with computer speaker sound, ie bass that seem to be from a separate track.
What part don´t you understand about the word "boombox" mentioned in thread title? 😕
Are you really suggesting he should build a mains powered system instead, for that duty?😱
In that case, may I add the suggestion that the OP also buys a gasoline generator or a loooooooonnnnnnnnnggggggg mains cable? 🙄
Just sayin' 😛
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