Yes. he probably posted before reading the last entry.
I think the Tarkus is great and you'd be happy with it.
In terms of assembling crossovers, I'm pretty sure if your dad is an EE he'll have zero issues soldering something as simple as a speaker crossover. I did those when I was in middle school....
Yup as long as there's a diagram I'm sure he will be able to do it. Are the parts all at radio shack? I know they are not the same as they used to be.
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ah ok well I'm in love with parts-express now and they ship to my house in 2 days
I just noticed that the tarkus design uses paper cones my dad wanted to stay away from paper because they will be in the basement and the ones he has now have all rotted from being down there. The mid and tweeters look fine but is it possible to go with a different woofer?
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You're exactly in line with my thinking here. I just illustrated a relationship scenario to put things in perspective.
In your case, You may have a ton of surface area for the mids, but it is for reasons that I believe may be well beyond the scope of what this thread is attempting to accomplish. (I don't think the OP is interested in line array or CBT configurations) [I don't know what you have but I am just assuming here]...
I'm not advocating for a pile of enormous subs, but rather illustrating a relationship issue. I think this system could actually be better, if there were very different allocations of funds involved. Since the 15" powered sub seems to be decided on, with funds for the system already spoken for, the directions with which to go are somewhat limited, especially when the driver sizes are being somewhat dictated.
I'd like to see this all work out for the best in the end. However, I get the feeling that too much of what has been suggested is high pass filtering the OPs head. (sorry)
lol yea a lot of it is going over my head you guys are just going into things I've never heard of so I'm trying my best. The sub is paid for but it wasn't part of the $400 so we have around $400 to work with for the 3-ways I would think that is plenty to work with right?
The drivers can be whatever you want they don't have to be 10's but paper and moisture don't mix well and they are going to be in the basement so we would like something that can handle that if possible.
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Ninesvnsicks, your sub won't be a problem. You'll go on to discover the best way to set it up and use it in your room and with your speakers, but that's fine.
I see you are wavering a bit, but it will be OK. This first round of questioning is only to make sure you don't blow a wad of money on something bad. There will be no problem if you go either way with this. After you build something and come back and say...help me change this or that about it...that's where the fun begins.
@mdocod Since you asked, I run a straight two-way with subs.
I see you are wavering a bit, but it will be OK. This first round of questioning is only to make sure you don't blow a wad of money on something bad. There will be no problem if you go either way with this. After you build something and come back and say...help me change this or that about it...that's where the fun begins.
@mdocod Since you asked, I run a straight two-way with subs.
It's your room. It has hot and cold spots. They apply to where you put the speakers and to where you listen from. Some frequencies will be in and some out at the same time.
After setting up your mains... learning the right position/volume/wiring for your sub is all about making the hot spots cooler and the cold spots warmer.
After setting up your mains... learning the right position/volume/wiring for your sub is all about making the hot spots cooler and the cold spots warmer.
Hi,
No, absolutely not. Modern drivers are far more climate proof than
they used to be due to global markets and in-car installations.
Its not an issue IMO and a suitable substitute driver will be more
expensive and require design changes to be as good, not an option.
rgds, sreten.
Hi,
Sorry if it sounded oppressive, but Undefinions site is good reading for the
less experienced. The very subtle aspects of design depend on listening
(its not pure measurement) and tweaking of the apparent technical
design and details until it comes together.
In the Tarkus the bass unit and mid unit are very carefully combined,
and replacing the bass unit won't just affect bass, it will affect the
midrange voicing of the speaker. It may be all gobbeldygook to you
but it is not to me. Some effort has gone into voicing the speaker,
playing with the actual c/o options, not good IMO not to use it.
rgds, sreten.
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I'm looking at some of the speaker kits that parts-express has some of them look really nice and they seem to be priced well also they are not the biggest but they would probably sound nice. I don't see many that handle over 65 watts rms so I'd like to find a kit that would at least handle 100wrms @ 8 ohms. Is there any other sites that sell speaker kits?
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Not wanting to add to the pressures of your obviously steep learning curve, Ninesvnsicks, but Watts aren't really the big issue that people often make out of them. Two simple facts....
It is the air that the speaker cone is capable of moving that you want. It depends on how loud you want to go and how low you will push it and not everyone needs or wants massive speakers but some do.
Then you have the 'sensitivity' which is simply how much sound you get for every Watt you supply, and it's different for every speaker. Eg. a common 'hifi' woofer with a sensitivity of 86dB/W/m versus an efficient one of 96dB/W/m. If you turned them bot up so they were playing equally loud, the first will be using 100W while the second will only be using 10W. (I can decisively disrupt other peoples activities in my house using less than 1W)
It is the air that the speaker cone is capable of moving that you want. It depends on how loud you want to go and how low you will push it and not everyone needs or wants massive speakers but some do.
Then you have the 'sensitivity' which is simply how much sound you get for every Watt you supply, and it's different for every speaker. Eg. a common 'hifi' woofer with a sensitivity of 86dB/W/m versus an efficient one of 96dB/W/m. If you turned them bot up so they were playing equally loud, the first will be using 100W while the second will only be using 10W. (I can decisively disrupt other peoples activities in my house using less than 1W)
oh yea I know about that stuff just saying he can go up to 100 @ 8 or 150 @ 4 I wouldn't want an inefficient speaker either. Heck if I can find an efficient one that also is able to take 100 or 150 in our price range then that would be great.
To get efficiency you would want to look at large drivers and pro drivers. Some large drivers have their efficiency traded off for other things, like bass extension.
I use a 15" mid/bass unit which is efficient, and is not designed for an especially low cutoff so it keeps it's efficiency. It is rated to deal with 400W, although a lot depends on how you control the cone with your box. Anyway, I rarely need to run it past 10W.
I use a 15" mid/bass unit which is efficient, and is not designed for an especially low cutoff so it keeps it's efficiency. It is rated to deal with 400W, although a lot depends on how you control the cone with your box. Anyway, I rarely need to run it past 10W.
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