Not sure how sturdy the sealed container for my 10" driver (feeding compressed into the throat of a horn) needs to be, but it calls for a VERY low volume container so I thought the bottom of a home depot bucket might serve better than an 5"x11"x11" square plywood box.
Not sure if it would flex too much (mainly the bottom/round part). Maybe reenforce the bottom?
Not sure if it would flex too much (mainly the bottom/round part). Maybe reenforce the bottom?
I should've clarified that this is going to handle 200 Hz to 1400 Hz. Probably doesn't change your answer, but it's not a sub. I was going to make it air tight, I was going to seal it, but maybe a bucket isn't strong enough.
Here's a 200Hz rear chamber. Like the sides, the back panel was also two layers thick (36mm).
It wasn't bad, but since I was testing phase plugs I was removing the back over and over. I couldn't get consistency because I struggled to keep it airtight, even with 8 screws, each 4cm longer than the thickness of the back panel. The only reliable way to tell was to measure the impedance each time.. I ended up rebuilding it from seasoned hardwood blocks, with captive threaded inserts. Airtightness aside, I felt there was a subtle but worthwhile improvement due to the solidity.
It wasn't bad, but since I was testing phase plugs I was removing the back over and over. I couldn't get consistency because I struggled to keep it airtight, even with 8 screws, each 4cm longer than the thickness of the back panel. The only reliable way to tell was to measure the impedance each time.. I ended up rebuilding it from seasoned hardwood blocks, with captive threaded inserts. Airtightness aside, I felt there was a subtle but worthwhile improvement due to the solidity.
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Personally have used concrete former and heavy mailing tube grade cardboard tubing with suitable 3/4"(18-19 mm) void free plywood, etc., end plates, threaded rods/hardware to squeeze it all together + clamp/brace/mass load the driver. Easy to build and using Nema 4x or better gasket continuously around the cover's perimeter (no mounting holes or gaps) will ensure a leak proof seal for many years of repetitive cover removals (decades in industrial quality construction apps) when properly torqued, so short of crushing it, a 'calibrated' wrist should last far longer than a DIYer's needs.
Later made excellent performing floor loaded subs with up to 18" drivers tuned as low as 16 Hz this way.
Later made excellent performing floor loaded subs with up to 18" drivers tuned as low as 16 Hz this way.
I frequently use yoghurt containers lined with felt as mid enclosures - no problems and saves work
This is going to push ~135db from a 10" driver, I am guessing that would work great for lighter applications.
It's not about level, it's the same relative amount... The horn I showed above spent most of its time below 1W.
If you go to the hardware store maybe skip the buckets and pickup some appropriate diameter sonotube? It will probably take the pressure mdf collar and end cap, something between silicone and fiberglass should seal it.