I am well on my way to having a working Arduino controlled PGA2320 preamp and wish to order 2 monoblock power amplifiers to use with it.
For similar money & power (150-200W into 8 ohms) I could use Abletec ALC0300-1300 (mono) or ALC0240-2300 connected as BTL. Is there anything to choose between them? Any advantage or disadvantage in operating BTL?
Thanks.
For similar money & power (150-200W into 8 ohms) I could use Abletec ALC0300-1300 (mono) or ALC0240-2300 connected as BTL. Is there anything to choose between them? Any advantage or disadvantage in operating BTL?
Thanks.
One BTL disadvantage:
Some class D modulation schemes would make it difficult to hook your speaker output lines directly to a sub.
( or to run headphones )
Some class D modulation schemes would make it difficult to hook your speaker output lines directly to a sub.
( or to run headphones )
Thanks Dug. I guess that's because BTL speakers are not ref to ground. Not an issue for my application but ordered 2 off Abletec ALC0300-1300 (mono), these will sit behind my speakers.
Arduino controlled PGA2320 preamp now operational, balanced out (DRV134).
When amps arrive I'll need to sort cases for all 3 units.
Maplin (in the UK) have some cheap ali boxes, should do for the amp's - don't need anything fancy when they're not on show. I'll post more details & photos when complete.
Arduino controlled PGA2320 preamp now operational, balanced out (DRV134).
When amps arrive I'll need to sort cases for all 3 units.
Maplin (in the UK) have some cheap ali boxes, should do for the amp's - don't need anything fancy when they're not on show. I'll post more details & photos when complete.
Personally I think BTL is the only option for high power applications to avoid bus pumping.
You also only need half the supply voltage in BTL mode.
The anaview/abletek data sheet says there is no problem with bus pumping at frequencies of 20Hz and above. If you want to hear below 20Hz you are not listening to music so you should be fine.
Although I generally prefer BTL mode, also with 2 subs (=>1 sub per channel, with one sub channel inverted by DSP plus inverted sub wiring is ALWAYS better), on half bridge you can easily shift the frequency where trouble starts as low as you want by just adding more and more electrolytics at the bus rail - this does not cost much for the DIY-guy, whereas the big manufacturers always try to avoid every single cent of exta cost to stay competitive.
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