I want to buy a amp but I want to build one with chipamps in parallel But I have big 10 inch vifa woofers in my system... I listen in moderate levels which doesnt disturb neighbors. Is there anybody who have used Bryston and Chipamps and tell which is better in what perspective...
please help me in making the decision....
please help me in making the decision....
rhythmdiy:
I've built LM3875-based projects and listened to Bryston power amps. As happy as I am with the chipamps, the Bryston amps were better. My experiences (which others may not share) have been that the Bryston amps (primarily the 4B and 4B SST) offer greater detail, nuance, energy and resolution. Additionally, the Bryston's soundstage was more three-dimensional.
Presumably, you are faced with the option to either build a chipamp or purchase a particular Bryston. But given what I imagine is a significant disparity in the price of your two choices, it seems like an odd question -- if you have the funds to buy a Bryston 3B SST, there are undoubtedly many other options available to you (including a radically souped-up chipamp). You could be very happy with either, but what is your goal?
Regards,
Scott
I've built LM3875-based projects and listened to Bryston power amps. As happy as I am with the chipamps, the Bryston amps were better. My experiences (which others may not share) have been that the Bryston amps (primarily the 4B and 4B SST) offer greater detail, nuance, energy and resolution. Additionally, the Bryston's soundstage was more three-dimensional.
Presumably, you are faced with the option to either build a chipamp or purchase a particular Bryston. But given what I imagine is a significant disparity in the price of your two choices, it seems like an odd question -- if you have the funds to buy a Bryston 3B SST, there are undoubtedly many other options available to you (including a radically souped-up chipamp). You could be very happy with either, but what is your goal?
Regards,
Scott
I have auditioned Lm3886 based single chip amp and the mids and highs are incredible but Bass is something I am worried off.. I am a sucker for bass and btw I am connecting these to the PC with a highend professional sound card..
But now the prob is that I watch movies as well when I feel I have to get pretty good bass... so my thought is going towards Bryston since they are masters in lowend tight bass...
but I thought of using a BPA 300 to solve this issue.. even thought my speakers are capable of taking only 160watts of inputs but since I want that tight and very controlled sound... I was interested to move to the Brystons... what do you say... since I have a vifa pl26w 10 inch woofer I am showing interest in Bryston just because of Bass...
I cant leave mids and highs of chipamps and Bass of Brystons...
How do i fill this gap...?
whats ur opinion...
But now the prob is that I watch movies as well when I feel I have to get pretty good bass... so my thought is going towards Bryston since they are masters in lowend tight bass...
but I thought of using a BPA 300 to solve this issue.. even thought my speakers are capable of taking only 160watts of inputs but since I want that tight and very controlled sound... I was interested to move to the Brystons... what do you say... since I have a vifa pl26w 10 inch woofer I am showing interest in Bryston just because of Bass...
I cant leave mids and highs of chipamps and Bass of Brystons...
How do i fill this gap...?
whats ur opinion...
a chipamp is just an amp with gain much like any other.
Give it a good PSU and you won't criticise it for lack of bass.
Give it a difficult load and you will never hear it playing well.
Going to parallel or bridged or both will just complicate the issue.
Give it a good PSU and you won't criticise it for lack of bass.
Give it a difficult load and you will never hear it playing well.
Going to parallel or bridged or both will just complicate the issue.
Hi Andrew thanks for the reply.. can you please give me a practical example with chip/ PSU ratings like
I thought of using 10,000uf per chip and 100VA/ chip of supply and to have 600VA for BPA 300
but I want this amp to bias into class A ... can anybody tell me how to do this as well?
I thought of using 10,000uf per chip and 100VA/ chip of supply and to have 600VA for BPA 300
but I want this amp to bias into class A ... can anybody tell me how to do this as well?
Possible tweaks on the PSU?
Hi All,
I've built the LM3886 based gainclone but using the standard circuit as per the National's schematic on its datasheet , not the BPA 300. And honestly, I haven't heard the performance of Bryston Limited 3B SST in my town, Jakarta - Indonesia, so I could not comments for its performance.
I recalled that when first time my chipamp running, I noticed that the bass was a bit 'loose' and to my liking was not punchier... then I decided to implement additional filtering caps at the unregulated PSU circuit , from previously only 2 x 4700uF/50VDC per channel increased to 6 x 4700uF/50VDC. I also then install additional filter cap at the LM3886 chip supply line, with additional 1000uF/50VDC per rail, making it became 2 x 1000uF/50VDC per rail. Somehow then, dunno why technically, the bass of my chipamp became 'tighter' and 'punchier'.
Just for your reference :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1528031#post1528031
and
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1528317#post1528317
FYI , I'm still newbie in DIY Electronic (although already 39 years old), so apologies if my sharing here might not have strong technical background,
Regards,
Hi All,
I've built the LM3886 based gainclone but using the standard circuit as per the National's schematic on its datasheet , not the BPA 300. And honestly, I haven't heard the performance of Bryston Limited 3B SST in my town, Jakarta - Indonesia, so I could not comments for its performance.
I recalled that when first time my chipamp running, I noticed that the bass was a bit 'loose' and to my liking was not punchier... then I decided to implement additional filtering caps at the unregulated PSU circuit , from previously only 2 x 4700uF/50VDC per channel increased to 6 x 4700uF/50VDC. I also then install additional filter cap at the LM3886 chip supply line, with additional 1000uF/50VDC per rail, making it became 2 x 1000uF/50VDC per rail. Somehow then, dunno why technically, the bass of my chipamp became 'tighter' and 'punchier'.
Just for your reference :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1528031#post1528031
and
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1528317#post1528317
FYI , I'm still newbie in DIY Electronic (although already 39 years old), so apologies if my sharing here might not have strong technical background,
Regards,
Is this overkill or this is how things can be improved?
http://www.norh.com/products/sub/inside.html
its about Norh sub but with higher power supply
I am using the similar woofer just 2 inches bigger the same series of woofer Vifa PL22W is used in Norh sub and Im using PL26W
so I think I have to use massive caps for tighter bass..
http://www.norh.com/products/sub/inside.html
its about Norh sub but with higher power supply
I am using the similar woofer just 2 inches bigger the same series of woofer Vifa PL22W is used in Norh sub and Im using PL26W
so I think I have to use massive caps for tighter bass..
this is the review for the above sub...
Strengths:
Tight bass, Musicality, No box coloration, no overhang, sold as a pair, georgous finish, price, manufacturer dialogue and support.
http://www.audioreview.com/mfr/norh/subwoofers/subwoofer-mkii/PRD_124862_2741crx.aspx
Strengths:
Tight bass, Musicality, No box coloration, no overhang, sold as a pair, georgous finish, price, manufacturer dialogue and support.
http://www.audioreview.com/mfr/norh/subwoofers/subwoofer-mkii/PRD_124862_2741crx.aspx
I am thinking of another option thats...
using 330uf supply caps 200 numbers so that i will get superquick charge after discharge... and extreme low ESR ( I will create a new box for the power supply... ) whats your opinion...
using 330uf supply caps 200 numbers so that i will get superquick charge after discharge... and extreme low ESR ( I will create a new box for the power supply... ) whats your opinion...
No problem. Bi-amp.
You can use "CI" cap (fully AC coupled) for the bass, and that could be up to 220uF. Talk about solid bass. 😉 Well, of course you'd also need a nice power supply to go with the amp too.
And you can use the chipamp/audiosector style design for mids and treble if they are indeed protected by series capacitors as is normal for mids and tweeters. 😉
It'd be good to look up the topic of a buffer.
Well, that's about it.
For reference, and in my opinion:
CI cap is large and fast = slamming bass
Audiosector style = natural mids and treble (in absence of impedance mismatch)
Buffer = hifi style, euphonic (non-blaring) sound.
So, bi-amp can work great!
Have fun!
You can use "CI" cap (fully AC coupled) for the bass, and that could be up to 220uF. Talk about solid bass. 😉 Well, of course you'd also need a nice power supply to go with the amp too.
And you can use the chipamp/audiosector style design for mids and treble if they are indeed protected by series capacitors as is normal for mids and tweeters. 😉
It'd be good to look up the topic of a buffer.
Well, that's about it.
For reference, and in my opinion:
CI cap is large and fast = slamming bass
Audiosector style = natural mids and treble (in absence of impedance mismatch)
Buffer = hifi style, euphonic (non-blaring) sound.
So, bi-amp can work great!
Have fun!
hmmmmmm how does it makes difference? it works like signal filter right... so can anybody explain how it works... Ive never thought of this....
pacificblue said:
Sorry guys! Actually, the advertisment for the capacitor isn't really a reliable measure of success with a music audio signal. Instead. . . howabout a bit of speedy trial and error?
For choosing the "CI" cap (in the "woofer" amp), my method is to:
Collect five of the most likely (just guess or use the recommends of others), as long as they also have the right specs (size, voltage, ESR, ripple).
And, then interview them.
Use the winner.
If I needed to make the same decision as you it would probably come down to how quickly I needed to have an amplifier. With the Bryston I would be ready to go immediately versus the time required to build an amplifier suitable to the task. (I had a Bryston 3B (early version w/ coil AC cord) on loan to me for ~6 months. I really liked it too. It was pretty much invisible sonically. I did not however have it at the same time as a gainclone of any kind.)
Good luck in your quest!
Good luck in your quest!
Bryston 3bsst or chipamp
You are trying to compare luxury sedan with a limousine. Chipamps are good at times, may be better... but they are simply un-comparable to any good make solidstate amplifier.
You are trying to compare luxury sedan with a limousine. Chipamps are good at times, may be better... but they are simply un-comparable to any good make solidstate amplifier.
Re: Bryston 3bsst or chipamp
This is all too true. With the chipamp, you can have it any way you want it; however, with a "good make solid state amp" you're restricted to the manufacturer's ideas, profit margin, compromises, theme, style, etc. . . and just hope it matches your application.
That said, you can make a chipamp to perfectly match your desires.
Yes, I think your "un-comparable" is quite accurate.
kuldeepsingh said:
This is all too true. With the chipamp, you can have it any way you want it; however, with a "good make solid state amp" you're restricted to the manufacturer's ideas, profit margin, compromises, theme, style, etc. . . and just hope it matches your application.
That said, you can make a chipamp to perfectly match your desires.
Yes, I think your "un-comparable" is quite accurate.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.