Yes this one I was looking at or trying to think of from above. It meets all the size and cosmetic requirements. Thanks for the image.
Right now I'm rebuilding the work table I use to make these projects.
the A10 mark 1 sings perfectly happily on 3watts in 12x14 in this, I wouldn't discount it so readily because of power...I was pleasantly surprised:
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why any more so than other designs?
if the port slot(s) are on the bottom of front panel, you can either add extra layer(s) of material at the bottom to avoid the grille frame from occluded the vent (s) or stop the grilles short and make it a design feature
in the case of the wide side chamfered "Primes" et al, the narrow grille actually adds to the aesthetic - for me anyway - so far no-one who has auditioned them has complained about the look
it just occurred to me that all the pictures Dave has posted to date are sans grilles, but most are using hidden magnets for attachment of grilles
1/4 x 1/4" rare earth magnets (from Lee Valley or similar) ;
cut grille frames from 1/4" or 3/8" MDF and drill holes at each corner, then use the frame as template for holes in the front baffle.
tape the predrilled grille in place with masking tape (at least a utilitarian in a woodworking shop as duct tape) for your template
if you have a drill press, set depth stop so the bit cuts just slightly into the baffle, then add a scrap of the material from which the grilles were cut to the drill press table - and bingo you're set.
with the holes in front of enclosure slightly deeper than magnets, add a drop of Weldbond white glue, and set the magnets flush with a block of scrap wood -
with corresponding magnets flush to the mating surface of the grille frames (the only place I use MDF at all anymore 🙄 ) 4 for small grilles, 6 for longer ones should be more than adequate
the fabric wrapping will add enough clearance that the magnets in the grille frames don't damage the cabinet finish
just be sure to verify the polarity of all magnets before setting in place, 'cause they're impossible to get out of the baffles.
this process can actually take less time than using hedlock type fasteners ('cause the holes in enclosure are drilled before finishing you needn't worry about damaging the finish when the cups are hammered in place) and have the advantages of complete stealth, and they never break (only disadvantage is slight increase in cost over the plastic fasteners)
Wow, a 2A3 that's my territory only i would've thought the A12 was the potential higher eff model, a smaller A10 surpassing it and 91db FE127 would be cool, a higher eff A12, even cooler. So how long till A10 MKII is on Madisound dot com?
FE127 is really 90 dB. A12, by virtue of more cone should be more efficient than A10, but some exFostex boys helping Mark out might give the A10 the edge... i'd estimate from the development units he has just posted, 88-89 dB. From his thread i'd guess manufacture late summer, Madisound early fall? The latter may well be affected by how fast current stock flies off the shelves.
I'm working on talking Mark out of a set of the A10 protos & a set of Vifa-made JX92 for the upcoming diyFEST. Keep your fingers crossed.
dave
I'm working on talking Mark out of a set of the A10 protos & a set of Vifa-made JX92 for the upcoming diyFEST. Keep your fingers crossed.
dave
Hi Dave,
Indeed, if there is more to be had from this little driver, I'm all for it. Bearing in mind that I used the Brynn's because I had previously built them as designed for the Fostex, which were in them for some time (18 months or so).
With regards to the XO point, I believe this ideal in my case was purely due to the A7's doing those frequencies (~120Hz and up) better than the Vifa woofers. In your case, using a smaller driver for the woofer would pay dividends in allowing the A7's to do a little less work, which couldn't hurt.
edit: Also as a personal preference I prefer to have the vocals pushed down as far as possible. The sonic differences between the woofer and A7's on vocals are subtle but do exist so I wanted to avoid them in the woofer as far as was possible. I believe vocals coming from two drivers is one good reason that the FR magic disappears when more drivers are added. *end edit.
As for the power requirements / sensitivity. I initially used one of Arjen Helders 2020 amps. I began to get clipping in one driver at approx, 12 o'clock. This is useless information though as I'm unsure of the gain in the tripath amp. The pre had 6dB, Arjens has ??dB To make it interesting however, the little amp clapped out at approx 12 o'clock. The Fostex in the Brynn's with the same pre/power clapped out at approx 1o'clock (the drivers were exceeding mechanical xmax at this point).
Using some very elaborate science, the difference between 12 and 1 o'clock on my attenuator is 1.5 clicks which at that point equates to 2dB for the first click and 3dB for the second click. So I'm going to guess the Fostex are around ~90dB and the A7's around 86.5dB*
*note: this is utterly useless but seemed ammusing at the time of writing 🙂
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As you are heading back down the FR path, can you send that crossover back as I can utilise the bits. If you are still going to trial the other speaker in the next couple of months then keep them until you evaluate the other design.
>>> Using some very elaborate science, the difference between 12 and 1 o'clock on my attenuator is 1.5 clicks which at that point equates to 2dB for the first click and 3dB for the second click. So I'm going to guess the Fostex are around ~90dB and the A7's around 86.5dB*
LOL... and i bet you are pretty close.
LOL... and i bet you are pretty close.
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