Hi all,
I have a large PA/Loudspeaker and it was dropped and the case/housing/cabinet broke. It is a plastic cabinet and air leaks out when it is put at a loud volume. Does anyone have suggestions on how I could repair this? Could I take it for someone else to repair professionally? is it a goner? Is it worth the repair (about 600$ speaker and 1 month old)? I was thinking that a simple solution like sealing the crack with crazy glue might work. I would appreciate any advice. I have attached a few images of the crack and the model of the speaker.
Thanks,
Ben
I have a large PA/Loudspeaker and it was dropped and the case/housing/cabinet broke. It is a plastic cabinet and air leaks out when it is put at a loud volume. Does anyone have suggestions on how I could repair this? Could I take it for someone else to repair professionally? is it a goner? Is it worth the repair (about 600$ speaker and 1 month old)? I was thinking that a simple solution like sealing the crack with crazy glue might work. I would appreciate any advice. I have attached a few images of the crack and the model of the speaker.
Thanks,
Ben
If the speaker still works ok at a minimum you need to open it up and inspect just how much damage was done. You should be able to remove the back panel and use a mirror to access. Not sure what to recommend to reseal it with but if the crack is small, rtv sealant might be enough. You could probably find someone to repair it but you would need to be sure they at least inspect it internally. If it were mine I’d figure out a way to repair it myself
You will need to test any glue on a small hidden spot first. Many glues will not stick to plastic.
I would open up the loudspeaker and apply the glue to the crack from the inside of the case.
From the outside I would use automotive body filler and touch up paint.
I would open up the loudspeaker and apply the glue to the crack from the inside of the case.
From the outside I would use automotive body filler and touch up paint.
Isn't the handle broken off? You may be able to get a new handle from Alto, remove the broken pieces and reseal the holes with the new handle...if available, that is.
Liquid plastic solvent glue will wick into the crack.
Practice pushing/pulling the crack so they align. without glue.
Then wick in the glue using needle applicator along crack.
align as practiced.
Then reinforce the crack from inside with epoxy.
Practice pushing/pulling the crack so they align. without glue.
Then wick in the glue using needle applicator along crack.
align as practiced.
Then reinforce the crack from inside with epoxy.
I wouldn't use Crazy Glue/cyanoacrylate in this case. The repairs tend to be very brittle.
Plastic welding is a thing, and the hardware to do it is not too expensive. You mostly find rod for things like ABS, polypropylene, polycarbonate etc. If the cabinet is a plastic blend or something a little weird, welding may not work as well.
If it's ABS, and you have access to the inside, you could also do a backer plate of ABS, and slather everything with all purpose pipe cement, urethane automotive trim adhesive/seam sealer, etc. Or weld the backer in.
If you want to go the fiberglass/epoxy route, working mostly from the inside might be a good idea also, since you can greatly increase the bonding area without it affecting the cosmetics outside.
If the enclosure is not ABS, the all purpose pipe cement isn't as likely to work well. All I found online was that the cabinet is injection molded. Couldn't find anyone saying what the plastic actually is.
Plastic welding is a thing, and the hardware to do it is not too expensive. You mostly find rod for things like ABS, polypropylene, polycarbonate etc. If the cabinet is a plastic blend or something a little weird, welding may not work as well.
If it's ABS, and you have access to the inside, you could also do a backer plate of ABS, and slather everything with all purpose pipe cement, urethane automotive trim adhesive/seam sealer, etc. Or weld the backer in.
If you want to go the fiberglass/epoxy route, working mostly from the inside might be a good idea also, since you can greatly increase the bonding area without it affecting the cosmetics outside.
If the enclosure is not ABS, the all purpose pipe cement isn't as likely to work well. All I found online was that the cabinet is injection molded. Couldn't find anyone saying what the plastic actually is.