Hey guys i have a soundstream 2 channel amp that a friend gave me.... he blew it up... i can read most of the components on the board that are fried but some of the labels are blown off... just wondering if anyone can get me schematics or maybe someone has the amp and can read the label for me...
thnx in advance
-Brokenbc
thnx in advance
-Brokenbc
I also have an amp that was overloaded and now it's under protection mode. I ran the amp bridged at 2ohms which was not legal by this amp model. And now the amp switches to procection mode each times I try to hook it up.
How can I get the amp out of protection mode?
How can I get the amp out of protection mode?
Sounds like its time to pull out the soldering iron and DMM! Doubters on finding any schematics, most companies don't let those go even if the amp is out of production.
What you can do though, is unsolder the output devices and remove them from the PCB. Make sure to label which part was where on a piece of paper -- this will avoid future headaches trying to remember where you removed the parts. Using a DMM check the middle and right pins for a short circuit. I would do this to all the output devices, not just the ones that look burned. Most likely, if one goes he takes his buddies with him (parallel output devices on the same channel usually fry as well).
If you find the culprits, just hope that they aren't obsolete and do a search for them on the net or at www.digikey.com or www.mouser.com or any other big internet distributor.
I'd say over 90% of the reason car amps don't work is due to fried semiconductors -- either switching devices in the power supply or the output devices (BJTs, MOSFETs). So generally, if you replace those, you've fixed the amp......hopefully
Good luck!
What you can do though, is unsolder the output devices and remove them from the PCB. Make sure to label which part was where on a piece of paper -- this will avoid future headaches trying to remember where you removed the parts. Using a DMM check the middle and right pins for a short circuit. I would do this to all the output devices, not just the ones that look burned. Most likely, if one goes he takes his buddies with him (parallel output devices on the same channel usually fry as well).
If you find the culprits, just hope that they aren't obsolete and do a search for them on the net or at www.digikey.com or www.mouser.com or any other big internet distributor.
I'd say over 90% of the reason car amps don't work is due to fried semiconductors -- either switching devices in the power supply or the output devices (BJTs, MOSFETs). So generally, if you replace those, you've fixed the amp......hopefully
Good luck!
Actually, some companies are willing to sell you schematics of their stuff. I know Pioneer does...
I think is difficult to found the schematic.many year in my car audio service centre,we repair without schematic and as long the amp is use general continiue part,that can be fixed.
are you interest for sell this broken amp?i can fixed this amp if i can look that.
are you interest for sell this broken amp?i can fixed this amp if i can look that.
maylar said:
I didn't know that! Thats pretty decent of them.
sma said:
Yeah, you don't necessarily need the schematic to fix your amp. Although, it sounds like it would be useful in determining the old part number... but you could probably just ask soundstream in an email. If the labels are burned off or are illegible, the device may be part of a complimentary pair where hopefully the other device has a legible part #. Do a couple of searches and see what you come up with. ... and pictures are VERY helpful ... but not necessarily essential.
Dan
Yup
Outputs are TIP102 and TIP107, Darlington types - do NOT sub with NTE.
PS FETs are IRFZ44/48/ or whatever you want over 40A units.
Go for it. They're easy...
Outputs are TIP102 and TIP107, Darlington types - do NOT sub with NTE.
PS FETs are IRFZ44/48/ or whatever you want over 40A units.
Go for it. They're easy...
- Status
- Not open for further replies.