Scottmoose said:
The diffraction ring is on the 200 series I think. This is just a raised portion of the square flange that does not want to seat on the wood itself. If I'm not 'feeling' it right in the cutout, I could make a slight chamfer on the surface. but I think the hole is big enough and it feels like there is play in it.
I am leaving flush mounting for the time being but would still consider it in a final build and if the Craftsman router goes on deal. I have my eye on one in particular.
Scottmoose said:
I think Lon may be referring to the rolled edge of the stamped basket frame that makes a depression on the backside of the flange - making them too easy to deform. Over-torquing the mounting screws asymmetrically can run the risk of warping the frame.
For me this is one of the most frustrating mechanical "features" of the FE series - that and the low durability of the paint job, and the sad excuse for mounting screws the drivers are shipped with. I for one would like to see the quality of cast baskets from the F / FW & Sigma series, but the costs would no doubt significantly increase.
In the case of that depression on the rear of the mounting flange, on the full-zoot EnABL+ treatment, this is an area that Dave will fill with a product called Silent Running SR500
http://silentcoating.com/sr_500.html
Time consuming, but helps considerably to both stiffen the flange and reduce resonances.
Well at least I know I'm not crazy.
Right now I have the driver in it's Sen~or Wensis box (who remembers Ed Sullivan?) for break in.
I re-thought just sticking a single speaker in there with some stuffing and got a small dinner plate and put it face down on the concave side to prevent any damage and get full cone excursion during break in.
This didn't come up for me previously working with two since they were bolted face to face, one in polarity and one out of polarity.
But I'll have to return to this mounting problem eventually.
Some other builders must have solved this by now.
Right now I have the driver in it's Sen~or Wensis box (who remembers Ed Sullivan?) for break in.
I re-thought just sticking a single speaker in there with some stuffing and got a small dinner plate and put it face down on the concave side to prevent any damage and get full cone excursion during break in.
This didn't come up for me previously working with two since they were bolted face to face, one in polarity and one out of polarity.
But I'll have to return to this mounting problem eventually.
Some other builders must have solved this by now.
chrisb said:
forgot to include this montage of treated drivers, the lower right hand photo quite well displays the flange filled in, and basket legs painted with a few coats of the SR500
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
"s-aright?"
"yes, is awright"
GM said:
The problem is not tightening down the screws but the fact that
the whole driver frame and flange does not rest or touch the surface.
So it goes beyond what would normally be used as gasket seal
because the ability to 'couple to the baffle physically is being
prevented.
On an FE127 I've gotten a cutout so snug it needs a nudge to
seat the flange. But this one looks like it needs more surgery.
A slight rabbet might do. A rabbeting bit of 1/4 in or something
that gets the flange out of it's state of being proud of the baffle surface. I have a rabbeting bit but it is not a good one and
might be too wide. another test cut would show if this worked.
Lots of time to fool around during break in.
Godzilla said:
Jeff - you can thank Bud for the pattern. I doubt you'd be laughing in quite the same way when you hear the difference it makes.
loninappleton said:
If I knew someone who did rosemalling I'g get them to do it. It looks like it takes a steady hand and concentration in repetition of the
pattern...
Ooops, one dash instead of two...
That sort of thing.
yup, it's painstaking work, particularly in the shadow of the whizzer cones
Today I made a few test cuts with a rabbet to see if that solves the
problem with fit.
I did a test with the same hole size and one a bit closer to the new and improved measure of 146 instead of 144. Then rabbeted both with the only rabbet cutter I have.
Didn't try it out yet. The speak is still in the Sen~or Wensis box.
problem with fit.
I did a test with the same hole size and one a bit closer to the new and improved measure of 146 instead of 144. Then rabbeted both with the only rabbet cutter I have.
Didn't try it out yet. The speak is still in the Sen~or Wensis box.
Time as a poll worker in US gave me a good run at getting break in done on my 167e. Still a ways to go.
I noticed that using a radio for getting white noise was problematic on FM. I'd set up the noise frequency wherever it might be on the dial and upon returning would find that it had gone quiet. This must be the frequency finding circuitry working or PLL or something.
On AM this not this problem.
But one other idea I have to complete break in is to use test tones running in a continuous loop of about a minute and half each.
Winamp is the media player I'll be experimenting with to set this up.
Anyone know of white noise generators not dependent on using a simple radio or way to make that more effective? TV maybe with a feed into my receiver. But that seems like a waste of juice.
Before counting votes started, I got a few pieces of hardware to adjust the size of a cheap rabbet bit that has no guide bearing:
metal spacers of various sorts. I haven't cut the final rabbet on my test speaker box yet.
I noticed that using a radio for getting white noise was problematic on FM. I'd set up the noise frequency wherever it might be on the dial and upon returning would find that it had gone quiet. This must be the frequency finding circuitry working or PLL or something.
On AM this not this problem.
But one other idea I have to complete break in is to use test tones running in a continuous loop of about a minute and half each.
Winamp is the media player I'll be experimenting with to set this up.
Anyone know of white noise generators not dependent on using a simple radio or way to make that more effective? TV maybe with a feed into my receiver. But that seems like a waste of juice.
Before counting votes started, I got a few pieces of hardware to adjust the size of a cheap rabbet bit that has no guide bearing:
metal spacers of various sorts. I haven't cut the final rabbet on my test speaker box yet.
Break in continues.
I finally found out that a couple dros of super glue will hold in the spacer kluge I attached to my rabbet bit. I also has to add a few winds of heavy packing tape to get the rabbet even narrower-- I could still see a bit of space even after all this diddling around.
However I think I will get a good fit now. The previous tests with sample pieces is a good exercise.
I'm getting anxious to have a trial listen.
The jute carpet padding that GM talks about-- maybe there's a bit of that someone will give me at a carpet shop. I miss not being able to dumpster dive at one that moved and now has inaccessible remnants.
I finally found out that a couple dros of super glue will hold in the spacer kluge I attached to my rabbet bit. I also has to add a few winds of heavy packing tape to get the rabbet even narrower-- I could still see a bit of space even after all this diddling around.
However I think I will get a good fit now. The previous tests with sample pieces is a good exercise.
I'm getting anxious to have a trial listen.
The jute carpet padding that GM talks about-- maybe there's a bit of that someone will give me at a carpet shop. I miss not being able to dumpster dive at one that moved and now has inaccessible remnants.
There seems to be a good fit now.
And I began setting up the Audacity to generate white noise for break in.
This was a stop and start affair but I finally saved a 30 second clip to
mp3 to do this job. What I couldn't get the hang of is changing time on the white noise clip. Every time I went to make what would be an infinite length clip failed. But when I saved the 30 sec. time which is the default, that went ok.
Winamp has given instructions on how to set up repeat on the player.
And I began setting up the Audacity to generate white noise for break in.
This was a stop and start affair but I finally saved a 30 second clip to
mp3 to do this job. What I couldn't get the hang of is changing time on the white noise clip. Every time I went to make what would be an infinite length clip failed. But when I saved the 30 sec. time which is the default, that went ok.
Winamp has given instructions on how to set up repeat on the player.
Ha!
Cross Sectional Area. GM, I remembered.
I'm bringing this thread up to date because I have finally got the 167e out of the break in box and into the test box.
I tried to practice proper mounting too: got the t-nuts mounted for the
frequent changes that tend to be necessary. The cutout is chamfered
in the 'petal' fashion so that there's enough material to insert the t-nuts. (still no black screws).
I made a thin grille out of the usual materials: a masonite frame,
doubleknit fabric from the fabric store and magnets.
Port on the bottom is 2"x 4"in.
Inside: felt in back of the driver, felt on one side down to driver height and the area above stuffed with fiber fill tight close to the top.
My sources aren't very sophisticated. But it will take a while to get used to a larger speaker-- also heavier but still delicate to handle.
Oh yeah, I have thin solid wire connecting the 167e directly on the driver-- no speaker cups.
Listening setup is described up above here.
It might be my source or the size of the box, but for a larger speak, it seems kinda thin. Break in time was 100 hrs using white noise.
Putting my ear down to the port, I didn't hear much there whereas with the smaller ones like 127e I can hear more port action.
I may have to proceed to a larger project sooner than expected.
Cross Sectional Area. GM, I remembered.
I'm bringing this thread up to date because I have finally got the 167e out of the break in box and into the test box.
I tried to practice proper mounting too: got the t-nuts mounted for the
frequent changes that tend to be necessary. The cutout is chamfered
in the 'petal' fashion so that there's enough material to insert the t-nuts. (still no black screws).
I made a thin grille out of the usual materials: a masonite frame,
doubleknit fabric from the fabric store and magnets.
Port on the bottom is 2"x 4"in.
Inside: felt in back of the driver, felt on one side down to driver height and the area above stuffed with fiber fill tight close to the top.
My sources aren't very sophisticated. But it will take a while to get used to a larger speaker-- also heavier but still delicate to handle.
Oh yeah, I have thin solid wire connecting the 167e directly on the driver-- no speaker cups.
Listening setup is described up above here.
It might be my source or the size of the box, but for a larger speak, it seems kinda thin. Break in time was 100 hrs using white noise.
Putting my ear down to the port, I didn't hear much there whereas with the smaller ones like 127e I can hear more port action.
I may have to proceed to a larger project sooner than expected.
rjbond3rd said:
I should put this on a hot key:
The inside dimensions are 4.75 in d x 10 3/8 in w x 23 3/4. This is the
untrimmed size of some particle board shelving. There is 3/4 wide molding used to get the sides attached and the back is identical. Because I started the job just practicing cutting holes in stuff, the driver hole is centered at the same 8 1/2 inches from top measuring 144 cm.
I never remember the dimensions in my head.
There's a removable bottom. GM said a while back to start with
a 2 in PVC port then maybe move up to 3" but too early to
do that yet.
What I'd like to do is get the length down to about 48" (from the
56 " above) which is the size of some remaining pieces from the BIB jr. which was never meant to be permanent. BIB Jr. was made for a 4" Pioneer from the BIB calculator.
Anyway, further listening tests tomorrow. I have no test gear. I might have just been listening to inferior samples on radio. I stick pretty close to the classical music broadcasts. Occasionally the New Age show which pushes everything pretty far on the sound spectrum. And organ recitals from PipeDreams. In the CD realm and DVD performance realm I'm partial to the Brian Setzer Orchestra.
So those things are test subjects.
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