Guys,
Another question.
Box shape for sub.
Never build a cube shaped box, which is the absolute worst enemy of a smooth frequency response curve
http://www.loudspeakers101.com/BoxCalc.htm
Is it so critical? I read on many forums that box shape is not so important and I was going to make 15X15X15.
Another question.
Box shape for sub.
Never build a cube shaped box, which is the absolute worst enemy of a smooth frequency response curve
http://www.loudspeakers101.com/BoxCalc.htm
Is it so critical? I read on many forums that box shape is not so important and I was going to make 15X15X15.
alex_g said:Guys,
Another question.
Box shape for sub.
Never build a cube shaped box, which is the absolute worst enemy of a smooth frequency response curve
http://www.loudspeakers101.com/BoxCalc.htm
Is it so critical? I read on many forums that box shape is not so important and I was going to make 15X15X15.
That is debatable... On the one hand, bulding a cubic box, all first order standing waves will coincide and have a maximal effect. On the other hand, if you make your box a cube with the side 15 inch, the first standing wave will occur at ~450 Hz. If this is a sub, you will have filtered out this frequency properly anyway.
Using another ratio will undoubtedly lower one of the three first standing wave frequencies and make the problem worse.
SY said:For a sub, make it rigid and don't sweat the shape.
I agree. However, for a "bass module" that will reach above the midbass, shape is a consideration.
The frequencies of the sub don't care about what the enclosure looks (feels?) like since they're so low. However, when you get into the higher frequencies, cylinders and cubes start hurting.
Im totally with Sean on sonosubs, Ive made one and I am really happy with the results. You can check out my webpage for some pics and the link below gives heaps of great examples.
http://members.tripod.com/~terryctheater/shivaphotoalbum/page12.html
http://members.tripod.com/~terryctheater/shivaphotoalbum/page12.html
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